Header wrap and Reflective tank lining

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Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
72
Location
Knoxville, TN
Can anyone recommend some brand names (and deminsions) of header wraps and reflective lining for my 2010 FE570 fuel tank and header? I think I may be having fuel boiling problems, the bike coughs at low RPM's sometimes and dies, also had an episode where it wouldn't start for about 15 minutes.


Yes, I have taken out the check valve on the vent line, installed a Rekluse and radiator fan, Radiator Ice for the coolant, cleaned the white gunk from the tank and fuel screen with alcohol.
Just want to try this stuff first before replacing the fuel pump. I don't have a dealer anywhere near me.

Thanks

Aaron.
 
I'm running the stock exhasut. I was hoping not ot have to buy an aftermarket one but I hear they do run a lot cooler. Maybe I'll try the header wrap and reflective lining first before I buy the exhasut.

What about the CV4 thermal barrier. I see that it is velcro. My concern is that it would trap a lot of mud and have to be removed often to clean it out. I ride in a lot more mud than dust here in Tennessee. I was thinking that a product that had a good adhesive would work better and not trap mud and debris. I'm thinking a stick on might be cheaper as well, $70 for the CV4.

Any thoughts on that?
 
Well, I have only had the bike for 4 weeks and have 325 miles so far. It's muddy up here too and I would think I will have to pull the tank every now and then to clean under there with or without the wrap. So far, I don't think there has been any extra mud collected up there because the wrap is pretty tight to the tank.

And from what I have read so far ... the stock muffler is one of the main factors in over heated fuel. Either replace with a slip on ... or if your bike has the "KTM Krizman spark arrestor" you can mod it yourself. See this thread for details ... viewtopic.php?f=26&t=14322
 
I used ten bucks worth of heat reflective tape. It wouldn't stick worth a darn to the tank, so I used adhesive spray. 3M, if I recall correctly. Some brands don't recommend using it on poly surfaces like our tank. The 3M stuff sticks like duct tape to a cat.

Now, I have to say I assumed it was my fuel boiling on my first Husa ride based on what some folks had experienced. But others chimed in to say it was more likely my coolant. I didn't get any excess pressure that wasn't being relieved by the tank vent on the first ride. I could definitely hear something boiling though. Maybe check to confirm if it's your fuel or your coolant.

As for results: Second ever Berg ride, now with tank tape, header wrap and water with water wetter (vs coolant previously) I experienced no boiling issues, and no tough restarting issues. It was ten degrees or so cooler out as well.

But, just to keep me honest..... partway through the ride my bike was stumbling - like a fuel starvation issue. Hot or cold, full throttle or trailing throttle. It started maybe two hours into the ride, lasted for maybe an hour, then went away for the next three or so hours, only to come back again right near the end of the day. I've got a new plug and fuel filters on the way. I'll also check for frayed wires or a clogged injector. I checked the chassis ground and battery terminals, but I now understand there's another potential failure point behind the headlight with the yellow-black wire. I will check that too.

The bike still has me smiling. I assume these issues will get sorted. I've also got a California Cycleworks pump sitting in my garage, so I'll drop that in if I think it's worth trying.
 
I've been running Engine Ice since day 1. I used to hear something boiling which I assumed to be the fuel in the tank but that seemed to stop when I took out the check valve in the vent line. If the coolant was boiling shouldn't the radiator fan be on?

I was thinking my problem now might be fuel actuallly boiling in the line (since the line is right on top of the engine and pulling fuel from the hot gas tank). Not sure if that would be casueing my flame outs or not. It would explain the "won't start, let it cool off for 10 minutes, and then starts right up syndrom" though.

Your fuel starvation issue sounds exactly like mine before I cleaned out the tank and fuel screen with alcohol. I haven't experienced that problem since the celan-out but that's only been one ride: about 1.5 hours or less.
 
I used the reflective blanket from moose which is a peel and stick product with a thin layer of fiber( I think ceramic Fiber) under the reflective coating and I also used the exhaust wrap from moose....
 
OK Thanks I'll try the Moose reflective tape and I think I'll try the 1" DEI header wrap and try to seal it with this silicone spray that popped up on Amazon. Hope this works and it's not a fuel pump or injector issue!
 
Looks good, I ordered mine last night. I found another thread that mentions that the problem with shutting down and not restarting until it cools for 10 minutes could be an incorrect spark plug gap. I'll check that tonight as well. I'm thinking about making a troubleshooting matrix for all the couph, dying, not starting, fuel pump, fuel boiling problems etc. It would beat having to comb through all these threads. 8O
 
nope, just hit "subscribe" towards the bottom of the thread and if your account is set up right, you should get an email whenever someoby posts something new. Also, next time you post to a thread, check "Notify e when a reply posted" also towards the bottom of the screen when you are replying.
 
We recomend the CV4 Tank Sheild. If you like the idea of a stick on barrier instead use the CV4 Thermal Film. Both of these products work great.

Also run Engine Ice and a fan kit. If you do these (3) things you should be 99% trouble free.
 
I still do not believe you people are boiling the petrol. I would say you have a fuel pump issue. Petrol will not explode, but the fumes of fuel will. Think about it. IMO
 
69candy said:
I still do not believe you people are boiling the petrol. I would say you have a fuel pump issue. Petrol will not explode, but the fumes of fuel will. Think about it. IMO

When I see the fumes rushing out of the vent line, that's what makes me think its fuel. I was definitely boiling fuel before I took out the vent line check valve. The fumes won't explode until you add spark. I'm just trying to do the simple things first. You may very well be right though on the fuel pump. Just don't want to have to mess with all the lines and wires until I have to.
 
Would aluminum adhesive tape - the kind used to fasten and seal heating ducts - fastened to the underside of the tank, be effective at reducing the radiant heat from the engine and exaust? Or is a special automotive or MC spec heat wrap the way to go? Nobody in my area has the proper wrap and I have a roll of the aluminum tape onhand already. It might be a ***** to remove, so I am a bit cautious about putting it on without some validation...
 
I used some glass fibre/aluminium heat shield matting I found on Ebay and it was cheap. Just cut it to size/shape of the underside of the tank and stuck it on with some ordinary impact adhesive. Fitted over 5 months ago and it's still fixed solid. I don't think the temps get hot enough to warrant using any special heat resistant adhesives. Also wrapped the exhaust header then painted the front section with some VHT exhaust paint. The paint is important as the wrapping starts to wear away and fray rapidly where its getting hit by stones and crap from the front wheel. Can't remember exactly where on Ebay I got the matting but there's loads on there with large variations in prices so look around.
 
richmojo said:
Would aluminum adhesive tape - the kind used to fasten and seal heating ducts - fastened to the underside of the tank, be effective at reducing the radiant heat from the engine and exaust? Or is a special automotive or MC spec heat wrap the way to go? Nobody in my area has the proper wrap and I have a roll of the aluminum tape onhand already. It might be a ***** to remove, so I am a bit cautious about putting it on without some validation...

IMO the heating tape would do the job if you can get it to stick to the plastic tank. Before using the impact adhesive I tried some double sided tape, as used to stick on car body trim, and it just peeled right off.
 

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