First startattempt after rebuild

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wille

Joined
Jan 22, 2009
Messages
18
Location
westcoast sweden
Hi guys!!

Today, I made an attempt to start my bike for the first time ever and after rebulid. Well it didnt start!! :( I`ve never started a husaberg, and never a 4-stroke, so maybe it isnt so strange that it didnt start. I have electrical start, but it seems like the freewheel is slipping. The starter is spinning nicely, but not the engine. The sparkplug is dry, but I have fuel in the carb, and it smells fuel in the exhaustsystem. I know the startingprocedure theoretical, but as I said, I`ve never kicked a bike like this before.

BeforeI screwed the cyl.head on, I put the piston in TDC(just before it goes down again, at compressin-stroke) and I made a mark in the enginecase towards the mark on the flywheel. I dont know if this method is accurate enough, what do you think? I havent checked the spark yet, I`ll do that tomorrow.

Do anyone have some tips about the ignition, first time kicker and kickmethod after rebuild?

Thanks!! /william
 
Hey William,
first of all make sure you've got a spark then check your ignition timing..... see owners docs.
You should also check your carb is ok if your plug is dry.
If you can get a spark and fuel and air then you will need to dig a little deeper.
Keep us posted,
Carl
ps put some decent boots on before you start kicking!!
 
Go to the downloads on the left hand side, print the Hard Start Guide. On a four stroke you need to find TDC with the kicker, if you move the kicker slowly yet firmly about 1/2 way down or so you feel a solid stop. This is TDC , let the kicker come back up and get another bite, then kick it as hard as you can. If everything is right you should at least get some sign of life. If not start from scratch and verify everything. Pull stator cover off, valve covers off, plug out, rod of some kind (hard plastic is good) know for an absolute fact that you are at TDC on the intake stroke. Check timing marks. While you got that stator out check it with an ohm meter, check Owners DOC on the left side of this page for values. After all that check the plug for spark (keep it away from the head as it could ignight gas vapors) I don't use the plug, I have a spark tester can be had at just about any auto parts store here in the US. If Alllllll of that is good, put it all back together and use that good kicking style and it should fire. just my $.02 Good Luck !
later
Ron
 
http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?name= ... highlight=

Have a look at this thread.

In the end it turned out to be a stator problem but if everything is not perfect (stator - valves - carb - decomp etc etc) then technique is really important. Get to TDC - go just past then kick with a strong kick. Dont stamp on it , you'll break the shaft - just a forcfull kick right through.

Think about it - to start you need to get the engine turning over fairly fast but with a single cylinder big bore 4-stroke if you dont give a strong kick you'll be lucky to get the piston to go up & down even once. You must get momentum.

Also, find someone experienced with bergs & see if they can start it. At least you'll knoe if its you or the bike.
 
Hi again!
Today I tried to start it, 5-10kicks and YES it fired up, but it only ran for 5 sec. Then some more kicks, and it ran for a couple of seconds again. Idle seems good, and it sounds well. That should meen that i`ve got it all fairly right, right? The engine is ,as I wrote before, rebuild, so I belive it will take many kicks before it will run clean from oil and stuff. Its my kicktechnique that needs some more work, the bike I think is ok.

Thanks/ william
 
Hey Wille
good to hear its running, if only briefly, if the carbs set right you should not use any throttle and it should start and then tickover happily. Might want to up the idle a bit.

Carl
 
Hey Wille good stuff.
As plumbbob says once it starts it should idle OK if the carb if working. That's where I'd be looking.
Can you get it to run with throttle or does it just keep on dying?
I assume you've got a Dellorto - Gotta be nice and clean.
I've found that mine doesn't like choke a whole lot - only when real cold but my real cold is a couple of degrees C.
Anything over about 15 I can't use it and in between is a bit of guesswork. You get to know it though.
 
I havent tested with throttel yet, and yes it seem to not like choke. The carb leaks some fuel at the floatcup. I`ll change gaskets, and work on my kicktechnique!! I`ve kicked many times now, so my leg is tired :) . I`m a little unused, first with left side kick, and 4-stroke. Should i sit on the bike and kick with left leg, or stand beside and kick with my right leg? Until now I`ve kicked beside with right leg.

regards

/william
 
wille said:
I havent tested with throttel yet, and yes it seem to not like choke. The carb leaks some fuel at the floatcup. I`ll change gaskets, and work on my kicktechnique!! I`ve kicked many times now, so my leg is tired :) . I`m a little unused, first with left side kick, and 4-stroke. Should i sit on the bike and kick with left leg, or stand beside and kick with my right leg? Until now I`ve kicked beside with right leg.

regards

/william
Click to expand...

When I attempted to start my bike for the first time after my rebuild I stood next to it, on a small platform an kicked with my right leg, found this the easiest way.

Even now when I've upgraded to the FCR I always stand next to it and start it with my right leg, I can get it running kicking with left but it feels weird :D , personal preference I guess.
 
I'm the opposite - can't kick it when standing off it to save myself. Have to be sittin using the left leg.
It should kick over pretty easy really if the valves and decomps are setup right. Not 2 stroke easy but not much worse.
Most the time I don't even worry about finding TDC.

As for the carb - if you haven't pulled it down then do it and give it a good blast with compressed air down ALL the holes and bleeds. There's a couple behind the air boot at the back that get full of dust and/or oil.
Check the needle and atomiser for wear - they are a loose fit when new but should be nice and round - not oval.
There's not much to them really. On assembly check the float levels and be careful to get the floats under the arms.
 
Hi everyone!
Today, after a week of illness, I tried to start her again. It was like when I left it a week ago: it didnt seem to like choke, but it fired and ran for some sec, and died, and so on. I was getting a bit tired of it! By the way, I`m sitting on the bike now- much better. Last attempt now I thougt, and pulled the choke out, kicked, and then it fired up for real. I warmed it up on choke, no throttle, turned the choke off, and it ran real nice. Even with some throttle it ran well. Real happy about that. After 10min or so, I turned it off for it first oilchange. There was a little metall in the oil, but that is normal, isnt it? Overall: no olileak, no waterleak, sounds well, great!!
 
This is how my oil screen looked after my rebuild, freaked me out completely, I tought I messed something up, but it gradually got better and after the third oil change, it was relatively clean (it's still a Husaberg :D )

310960099.jpg
 
What'd ya clean it out with - iron filings??? 8O
That's what they look like just b4 u need to rebuild.
And here I was worried about 3 or 4 bits.
 
Hey Willie,

if fuel's pi$$ing out everywhere, take a look at the needle & seat too or at least check the float level. Sometimes it can be the simplest of things that cause the most heartache but if it fires man, you're in the ballpark.
 
I had a little less metall than you, Belgiquebasterd, on the screen!

No, a couple of drops at the big nut under the carb was what I saw. I changed all gaskets, and now its no leak.

Yesterday, when I started the bike and when I had warmed it up, I switched from high to low. No difference in idle, but when I reved it once, it saidi phoof and died. No problem starting it after that on high again. Can I drive at high all the time or is that bad for the engine?

Thanks / william
 
My technique for starting when it's being a problem is to lean the ight handle bar against a tree or wall or the door of my shed. Then I can stand on both pegs and kick hard with the left leg.

The Hi Lo switch alters the ignition timing a little (advanced on Hi) which give softer more tractable power on Lo and more top end power on Hi. I find Lo is better for tight slippery trails and Hi is good for open fast trails. I don't think there is any problem running on either.
 
I think you've got that the wrong way round loz16h or just in the description.
When you say you've got it on hi does that mean it's switched over to HI and you can see the word LO or the other way round.
Lets not confuse everyone here.
 
the setting is the one that is exposed, not covered
 
Aha, then I`ve thought the wrong way. That is not logical! I started the bike at low, and switched over to high when warm. Then it said phoof and died!
I havent driven it yet, no drivechainlock!

/william
 

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