engine breather problem. FE650

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suggest the oil ring has picked up debris and that has wedged the oil ring deep into the groove just like when mamma wedges the doors ajar in the house!

:D :D

that is a common fault. question then becomes: was it the mains failing?.....or something else?......

regards

Taffy
 
ned37 said:
reroute the breather hose. plug the rear port on the head, plug the hole inside the big hole on the frame, run a piece of heater hose (5/8?) from the front port up and over the underside of the frame just in front of where it used to connect to the frame tube and down as far as esthetically possible. secure it to something (i ziptied it to the lower rad hose). make a dirt filter for the end of the hose to suit you. (i use steel wool jammed up into the tube)
if you're concerned about how much oil will come out, use a small catch can about the size of a small tomato juice can and inspect it after a run.
i did this to my '02 650 expecting to see massive quantities of oil in the can...never got anything.
Click to expand...


i have tought about this, but im afraid that this will only hide the symptom instead of curing the disease, if you know what i mean, it has done 150+ hours and never replaced any parts. im afraid im gonna seize it later if i dont change the piston now ?

why did you do this btw ? did you have the same problem as me ? how many hours had your bike done ?
 
I reckon you have a few choices.

Try some of the tips given and see how you go.

But it really sounds like your worried about it, which will affect all your ridin enjoyment.
Also, if there is something sinister going on, you might risk very bad things happening.

Personally, as its never been stripped, id get a reputable husaberg mechanic to strip it down and give it a full rebuild.

Expensive but may work out cheaper than if the engine goes west.
If its just the oil ring it might not be too expensive.

Mine was rebuilt with new mains and rings for 400 quid, an it runs better than it ever did.
 
mechanics charge alot more in norway, about 100 GBP / hour of work + the cost of parts, if the oil rings underneath the pistonrings are worn i might aswell change the piston and piston rings too.

having a mechanic to do it at a shop is out of the question. but im sure i can do it myself if i can find a proper workshop manual for the bike, my dad is good with this stuff so he can help me if i get something wrong.

but on the other side im thinking i should have heard the piston rings slammering if something was wrong with them.

im gonna try to get a compression test on it. i sure dont wanna start a rebuild in the middle of the summer..
 
the compression ratio is supposed to be 11,8:1 that is about 12 kg/ square cm so im gonna go buy a compression tester tomorrow. if the compression is fine im gonna do follow one of your tips to trick the crank ventilation.

but does anyone have an idea what the tolerance for compression is ? i dont think my compression is gonna be exactly what the book says after 150+ hours :p
 
why did you do this btw ? did you have the same problem as me ? how many hours had your bike done
Click to expand...
i did it because it had excessive blowby due to a scuffing of the cylinder. compression ring was close to spec so i just reused all 3. only god ( and maybe some las vegas yahoos)know the hours on the engine, but it did do some desert racing in it's youth. always ran well for me as long as i kept an eye on the oil.
one cheap way to determine if there is something sinister in the cylinder is to have somebody look at it with a scope. checking the compression of an engine with an autodecomp can be tricky
 
ned37 said:
why did you do this btw ? did you have the same problem as me ? how many hours had your bike done
Click to expand...
i did it because it had excessive blowby due to a scuffing of the cylinder. compression ring was close to spec so i just reused all 3. only god ( and maybe some las vegas yahoos)know the hours on the engine, but it did do some desert racing in it's youth. always ran well for me as long as i kept an eye on the oil.
one cheap way to determine if there is something sinister in the cylinder is to have somebody look at it with a scope. checking the compression of an engine with an autodecomp can be tricky
Click to expand...


mine doesnt have a autodecomp, does yours ?
 
if your engine has run 150h and not been opened yet, then its time..

@ 100h its time for crancbearings, piston and so on.

workshop manual is downloable @husaberg.com (http://www.husaberg.com/de/dealers-service/service/older-documents.html)

my 2003 eng has some kind of autodecomp connected to the kick-mechanism
but my 2006 has not.

anyhow, you could disconnect the decomp-wire and its not gonna disturb the test.
 
P-son said:
if your engine has run 150h and not been opened yet, then its time..

@ 100h its time for crancbearings, piston and so on.

workshop manual is downloable @husaberg.com (http://www.husaberg.com/de/dealers-service/service/older-documents.html)

my 2003 eng has some kind of autodecomp connected to the kick-mechanism
but my 2006 has not.

anyhow, you could disconnect the decomp-wire and its not gonna disturb the test.
Click to expand...


my bike only has a manual dekomp so it wont be a problem.
 
got news for you. there IS an auto decomp device on the chain end of your camshaft. it's on all of them.
 
hmmm, you sure ? cause when i start the bike without the manual dekomp i can hear the electric starter struggle when compressing, and i also dont have a chance to kick it over without the manual dekomp, it feels exactly the same as when i try kicking over my yamaha wr426 without auto dekomp.
 
the compression test solved the mystery, i got about 6 bar. it should be around 10-12 i believe.

if it has a auto dekomp like you say maybe thats the right compression, but i dont see why it would have a manual and a auto dekomp ?
 
also where do i download a workshop manual for the 2007 ? the link posted earlier only has workshop manuals up to 2004. i assume there are alot of changes after 2004 ? didnt ktm buy husaberg after that ?
 
how am i suppoae to measure the compression on it then
Click to expand...
don't worry too much about it, you will just be adding bad info. you can do a lot of research that will tell you how to get it done, but you will prolly end up with a lot of time invested and more questions than answers.
unless you are willing to tear it down and replace rings, possibly a piston, and a bunch of bearings on the hunch that something might be wrong, i would just change the vent and ride it.
an '04 manual is close enough for your purposes. just don't accept specs as gospel. any discrepancies: ask.
 
ned37 said:
how am i suppoae to measure the compression on it then
Click to expand...
don't worry too much about it, you will just be adding bad info. you can do a lot of research that will tell you how to get it done, but you will prolly end up with a lot of time invested and more questions than answers.
unless you are willing to tear it down and replace rings, possibly a piston, and a bunch of bearings on the hunch that something might be wrong, i would just change the vent and ride it.
an '04 manual is close enough for your purposes. just don't accept specs as gospel. any discrepancies: ask.
Click to expand...


okay, do you know how im supposed to get a proper reading on the compression test ? i bought a crankshaft vent filter today, along with a long tube and a plastic Y tube, my plan is to block the rear breather tube, and the opening on the frame, then cut off a piece of my new tube, mount that to the front vent hole on the top, then use the plastic Y on that tube and then add 2 tubes om the Y, then im gonna put the filter on the highest tube and a bottle on the lowest, that way i can see if any oil is getting spit out.

i guess someone has done this before ?

im still gonna rebuild it, but im hoping i can wait untill the winter xD
 
Decompression turns off at about idle speed. You would need to get it turning over at that speed. A tall order. Alternatively open and disengage it?? Dunno...
 
ill try to get my hands on a leak-down tester, measuring the compression leakage in percent.

is any leak at all tolerated here ?
 
I hardly think you would have any compression issues with just 150 hours. I've got a 650 with 350 hours, and another 650 with 240 hours. The 350 hour engine, it's on my shop floor awaiting a rebuild. It ran great and pulled hard before I pulled it out for no reason other than to give it a break.

It burned a little bit of oil, but not enough to warrant adding any between oil changes. I changed it at closer intervals as the hours piled up though. (6-8 hours with rotella t)
It smoked a tiny bit at high throttle, and was only visible at night with someone following me.

They both have had a valve train refreshment. Valve seals, timing chain, **cam follower bearings, *dual valve spri gs, and a new head gasket.

** (needs at least a thourough inspection or advise replacement every 90-120 hours of use)
* (said to give the valve train components an easier time)

Both bikes have a high speed check valve plumbed into the front valve cover outlet. The rear is blocked off. I did that after constantly finding oil in the airbox and also the telltale puddle between the carb and the intake boot. Oil consumption went down to almost nothing when I installed the high speed check valves.

More on that here; crankcase venting 101
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1110
 
Idle said:
I hardly think you would have any compression issues with just 150 hours. I've got a 650 with 350 hours, and another 650 with 240 hours. The 350 hour engine, it's on my shop floor awaiting a rebuild. It ran great and pulled hard before I pulled it out for no reason other than to give it a break.

It burned a little bit of oil, but not enough to warrant adding any between oil changes. I changed it at closer intervals as the hours piled up though. (6-8 hours with rotella t)
It smoked a tiny bit at high throttle, and was only visible at night with someone following me.

They both have had a valve train refreshment. Valve seals, timing chain, **cam follower bearings, *dual valve spri gs, and a new head gasket.

** (needs at least a thourough inspection or advise replacement every 90-120 hours of use)
* (said to give the valve train components an easier time)

Both bikes have a high speed check valve plumbed into the front valve cover outlet. The rear is blocked off. I did that after constantly finding oil in the airbox and also the telltale puddle between the carb and the intake boot. Oil consumption went down to almost nothing when I installed the high speed check valves.

More on that here; crankcase venting 101
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1110
Click to expand...


i blocked the rear breather tube yesterday, but i still get alot of oil into my airbox if i do top speed as much as once xD it must be the piston rings ? if it was a valve problem i would hear the noise wouldnt i ?
 

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