,it was something like 20mm,so to my way of thinking its never going to bind with a c3 or c4 bearing..non issue to my way of thinking.
the real problem is the bearing inners move.the fit between the bearing inners & the crank is not always a tight fit.when that moves because of heating/cooling/vibration/whatever, the endfloat can eventually become nil.
i know i measured mine a couple of rides back,.1mm cold/.3mm hot ,scary hey,especially when i cut/ ground the crank spacer down so it had .4mm cold ,when i assembled it.
any reaction ??
ahh thats good about the misalignment
FWIW I have the same problem with stuff moving around when hot
I put my RHS main inner on with loctite, and the LHS without
my endfloat vairies 0.1 to 0.5 , i set it up at 0.5.
I check it all the time. with the oem setup it was the same problem except that Im pretty sure the RHS inner was the loose one.
now if its less than 0.5 hot (real proper race pace hot) I can push the crank from R to L with welding gloves; gently it won't move but give it a thump with the heel of my hand and feel it move accross. endfloat back up to spec.
that tells me its something on the LHS loose when hot........ but its gotta be real hot like after 2 hours hard work.
after seeing what my engine does and hearing weeds does the same, maybe, just maybe everything needs to be locked down properly loctite/screws outers and loctite or collars on the inners. even if only on our 2 bikes
its great there are many solutions to the main bearings "problem" but it seems that nobody really knows why their favourite solution works. the ball LHS is supposed to be good but there are more than a few instances of that system going boom. what went wrong?
just a guess that Weed and I may be the only ones who noticed the wandering endfloat but i bet it happens in most bikes a lot. then as taffy says start her up with possibly zero float and you get a bit of wear, do it enough times ......
had a big crash with the origional bearings did a wind gust/WP shock induced bubba scrup flat whip over a big jump. I bailed out bike hit the deck pretty hard on its side I broke the handlebar mounts bent the bars and some other bits. bike got home in the trailer. the crank endfloat was zero. locked solid axially. o crap I thinks its rooted but idled it for 5 min and it losseded up a bit, rode gently for a while and when the engine was hot it was back to 0.5. thats what got me checking it all the time.
if it was a ball/roller set up id not have been able to check it but it still could have been zero.
not trying to reinvent anyones favourite setup, I just wanna make mine better. possible zero endfloat cold is not very confidence inspiring. peace of mind is worth 50 extra engine hours, its a must have :lol:
good luck with the lil moped rabno