coil--stator--

hi everyone--i"am stumped!!
02-501fe was running fine for three years, only one cdi/coil. shut it off, went to restart and nothing--no spark. stator checks ok, so it's the coil again. with new coil and new stator, fires right up on the button-alright!!!! warmed it up, turned it off and restarted it three times, on the fourth time no start. no spark again???? took out the wire harness, all ok--put old stator back in , no spark--put old cdi/coil back in no spark

new plug
spark plug cap ok
cdi/coil getting 12v on start
stator ck's ok (both)
?????????

thanks--bergman 501

Since all the things that can go bad checked out alright. Suggestion check the grounds and your switch and kill switch. Hope this helps and good luck.

kill switch disconected, new ground from stater mount to ground block. is there any way a stator can kill a cdi? at $330 a cdi , no more thats it--any body looking for parts? almost at that point!!!! $600+ in parts and it runs for 5 min!! --do you have to have the charge and the light wires (yellow) hooked up to make it run? bad reg or rectifier? would that have any thing to do with my problem?

thanks again--bergman501

Looking for some extra rims,....

PM sparks and brad/bundybear for extra help. bundybear (he changed nik) is the allround #1 on electrics here. trust you checked the doc?

regards

Taffy

Shultzy,
there was a set off an fe on ebay last week, not sure if they are still there or not.

bump

bundy?

thanks taffy for replying--averybody busy with x-mas. it has to be something with the cdi. been through the doc on the first go around. will get it sorted--

merry x-mas too all--bergman501

SO where are the EXPERTS?? Thanks Taff--much later experts--

BERGMAN

Hi Bergman,

I see that you are in PVille. I spent a lot of time growing up there as my aunt and uncle used to live right across from Marchall hospital on rowland street. It's changed a lot in the last 35 years though!

About your problem, first of all the best guys to talk to are the ones taffy mentioned. I have only chatted with sparks so he is the only one I can comment on. He is very helpful and actually works on this stuff for a living so I would pm him and get a dialogue going with him if your problem persists.

I have an 01 501 that I am having electrical issues with myself but my bike starts and runs, it just doesn't run right after a while but that's another story.

It almost sounds as like you have an intermittent problem that could be caused by several things, so I'm going to just fling out some idea's. There could be a wire that is broken at the main connector to the cdi, I don't know if you have a multi pin connector or the individual bullet connectors. Either way check all connections very carefully for corrosion, and wires for chaffing, or broken strands.

Next disconnect the kill circuit at the cdi if you haven't already done this and tape off the connector to be sure that this circuit is not shorted some where in the loom. This is the orange wire coming off of the cdi. There will now be no electrical cut off for the engine, so just be aware of this.

The answer to your question about the yellow wires is no. All they do is run the lighting system and battery charging system. The ignition system is on it's own.

I am pretty sure that you will find that the bike will start once you disconnect the orange wire at the coil, if it does, then your problem is obviously somewhere on the kill circuit, could very well be the key switch. When you think about it, when you replaced the stator, and the cdi, you replaced all of the wiring that concerns the ignition so the problem has to lay with the existing wiring.

If you haven't already use a new spark plug. Simon just recently had one act up on him that made him think there was a stator problem. You said the plug cap was okay, did you do a resistance test on it? Should be around 5 kilo ohms.

Once you have checked this stuff out let us know how you are coming along. I'm sure the fix is easily at hand.

DaleEO--only been in Pville for 1 1/2 years. i'am out in plasant valley (retired) and close to riding. about my problem--took all the wiring out of the bike, stripped it down--no problems. after the newcdi/coil the bike ran. fired right up on the button. shut it off and restarted 3 times, on the 4th no spark again. it has to be the cdi again. antbody out there have cdi's go bad in their 02fe501? this will be my third on if bad, and it only lasted 3 min. it's not the stator as i have two. have talked to sparks. i can send all my stuff to him to test. maybe later. i'am going to try to find a different cdi/coil (MSD) even if it's just to test with. husaberg should have been hit with a class action over the elect. problems. they probably made more money on elect.parts than on the bikes.

thanks again for the reply--bergman

Bergman,

I have been on this site for a few years now and have not heard of anyone having the type of problem that you have explained. I have lost one cdi on my 01 in 100 hours of riding.

Have you tried those things that i explained?

If you send your stuff to sparks he can test it and you will know for sure whether or not that's what the problem is.

You know, last night I got to thinking about a friend of mine with a late 90's XR 250. The bike was super reliable of course. Then he started having problems with it cutting out, no spark type of cutting out. One day he rode up on it and he started telling me about it, he started the bike, and then just turned the bars to the right and the bike died. Put the bars back straight and it started right up. Turns out somewhere in the loom by the steering head, and wire was shorting out because it broke, no chaffing of the area etc...

I am sure it was oyk that posted here that you can replace the OEM berg CDI and coil assy with cheap and available parts off such machines as honda c-90 etc.As these CDI and coils are seperate you need to mach up the wiring.oyk has used various combinations off Jap bikes with success.You will loose the hi-low function.

with the wire loom removed and hot wired no spark . ign. system on this bike is simple, but without a way to ck the cdi/coil !!! i will just ride the (Buick) dr650 suzuki. (mods)--rm usd forks & front wheel-drz400 rear shock-10 1/2 je piston-18" rear wheel-dr350 swing arm-fmfQ2-40mm FCR and i can ride on the street. when i get the berg sorted i will let you all know--

bergman

Bergman. I agree with DaleEO - Sparks does this stuff for a living. It's been years since I had much to do with them (fingas crossed!!!). Sorry I can't add much that hasn't been said.

A real long shot, but did any magnets look like they had come loose from the flywheel when you had the stator off? That is really the only common thing left to both old & new ignitions. If the epoxy had broken the magnet would still hold itself in place a bit but would rattle around on each stop/start. I'd suspect if contacted the stator it could do bad things.

Have you definitely tried it with the orange kill wire input, grey lo ignition curve input and blue/white start ignition curve input wires disconnected from the CDI? The wiring diagram is at the end of the 2003 Owner's manual.

Does the black ground wire definitely have a good connection to the frame? If it goes open circuit there is a chance the ignition spikes end up going back through the other inputs? I can't remember if the black wire from the stator is connected to ground inside it.

By the way, does anyone know exactly what putting 12V onto the blue/white wire does to the ignition during electric start? If it is so necessary, does powering this input make it easier to kickstart as well?

By the way, does anyone know exactly what putting 12V onto the blue/white wire does to the ignition during electric start? If it is so necessary, does powering this input make it easier to kickstart as well?[/quote]

Good question Bundy, but the 12v feed when using the starter is to aid the spark efficency due to the slower cranking speed.
You can produce a faster rpm when using the kickstart.

Regards

Sparks.

bundybear--have did all you said. magnets all good. getting honda cdi and coil for testing. will let everyone know what i find---

bergman

I HAVE THE SAME

I HAVE AN FE501E 2002 AND I HAVE HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM

WOULD NOT START WHEN WARM(WOULD DO WHEN COLD FIRST KICK)AND ONCE IT HAD WARMED UP IT WOULD JUST CUT OUT IF YOU DIDNT KEEP THE REVS UP.THEN AFTER THAT IT WOULD NOT START.

I HAVE TRIED A SECOND HAND COIL AND THAT DIDNT HELP REALLY.

.I REPLACED THE SPARK PLUG CAP RESISTOR WITH A THREADED BOLT OF THE SAME SIZE AND IT HAS HELPED MY BIKE ALOT.

I DO SOMETIMES HAVE TROUBLE STARTING IT NOW HOT OR COLD.

IT REALLY FEELS LIKE THERES NO SPARK SOMETIMES ???

TAKES UP TO 7-8 KICKS TO GO.

I JUST DONT KNOW WHAT ELSE IT COULD BE OTHER THAN THE STATOR EVEN THOUGH IT GIVES OK READINGS WITH OHM TESTER

Re: I HAVE THE SAME

Hi Mikey,

Try the spark performance test, remove plug and plug cap place HT lead 10mm from the head away from the plug hole and on a normal kick it should spark up with out any problems. I you find you have to kick it realy hard or even shorten the gap then yes it's your stator on it's way out.
A rewind with return post 198.00 Euros.

Regards

Sparks.

RE: Re: I HAVE THE SAME

i have done this test sparks!!!!!! it sparked well across the1cm gap !!!! any other help would be appreciated |!!!!!!!!

thank you sparks