Clutch problem

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hi anders

i did like you once, and it gave the steels 1mm of throw from left to right and even though i'm tight i said that a 1mm bang was going to see these grooves back in weeks if not days!

i used a woodman's chisel BTW!

suggest a new clutch drum.

regards

Taffy
 
Hmmm. Im Tight too..
Sad to hear that.. but ofcourse more play in there will increase the knocking.. Well it worked for now, will see the state of things when i open up again.... (Maybe in 5 years time -:) )

Anders, DK
 
I did as you suggested Taffy, I did undo the three screws 2 turns EXACTLY and it does came out when I pull the handle. Also locked at the pressure plate, and it goes in and out...

I can't really figure it out why the clutch works almost ok when I put back my old clutch hub.
 
ok i have gone right through this tonight for you and yes a little for me to learn!

firstly, i don't believe the part was superceded but simply that they flogged you a later part when it wasn't necessary. but i say that without checking ok?

did you know that iun '07 that they did an upgraded pressure plate as well? both at the same time? nothing else changed so one is to presume that one is dependant on the other?

yes your friction plates should be 2.0mm when measured whilst the 1.8mm plates that were way before yours were 1.75mm by my manual vernier.

if you have another steel why not fit it? steel, steel, friction, stee, frictionl etc etc and doesn't matter which end. i don't think that the spring caps made a REAL differenc ehere but for their price i would have upgraded them.

so i think you have pressure plate problems.

590 32 003 500 is the part number for the 'pressure cap'.
your frictions should always have been coded 590 32 011 100.

regards

Taffy
 
Thanks for all the help and time spent!
It was something weird with the pressure plate, with the new clutch hub. It never actually pushed at the plates, it pushed at the hub. So I solved it with an extra friction plate...
 

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