Cam gear position vs main gear after kick mechanism change

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p_kerttu

Joined
Jan 16, 2007
Messages
15
Location
Gothenburg
Hi!

I have changed the kick axle and I am now not sure how to engage the clutch in order to get the exact cam position vs piston position. Se picture. The obvious answer is to place the dot on cam gear in between two dots on main gear.

The kick axle retaining the arm engaging kick gear is a really weak construction and an expensive part.

Best Regards
Patrik
 

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RE: Cam gear position vs main gear after kick mechanism chan

ok

we have details of how to get the cam timing right in the doc. there is a technical drawing there showing you how to get it right.

as for the kickstart gear well, that is described as well in 'engine rebuild'. well i think it is! i will now check.

Kickstart fitment: the diagram in the parts manual shows the spring the wrong way around. Remove the outer gear for now. Fit the straight part of the spring into the centre of the kickstart mechanism and then fit the hooked end into the engine case feeding it all in as one. Fit the kickstart and wind the unit 180 degrees clockwise until the 'keyhole' shaped ratchet piece goes past the high point of the crescent shaped plate. Now press unit down into the case and release. The unit will turn counter-clockwise and rest against the shoulder of the crescent. Now remove the kickstart and you're ready to fit the gear.

i hope this answers your question but if it doesn't - please come back to me.

regards

Taffy
 
RE: Cam gear position vs main gear after kick mechanism chan

Thanx a lot for your answer. Assembled kick mechanism yesterday. Your description worked a lot better than Husaberg doc. Just put it in, klockwise engagement and push in untill fit. But still dont seem like the best construction.

I briefly checked the doc but couldnt find the right info on cam positioning. Maybe some document Ive missed ?
Anyway I turned the motor a few times and it seems good. One thing I wonder though is if the cam wheel could be on the wrong stroke. What I mean is if I put the cam wheel one turn off should the ignition be able to ignite on the wrong stroke ?

Regards
Patrik
 
RE: Cam gear position vs main gear after kick mechanism chan

if when the piston is at TDC you have the cam lobes pointing either up or pointing down - it doesn't matter. there is a spark everytime the engine goes around so one is always going to be for the non-compression stroke. you'll be ok.

my advice is to fit the cam with the lobes up and then rotate the engine 360 degrees until the lobes are down. NOW FIT THE ROCKER COVER!

regards

Taffy
 
The kick mechanism may seem like a weak part when it is taken apart, but if you take your time, you can put it back together without a lot of strain, and once it's all torqued in, it should not budge.

As for the gears, they seem to be misaligned.
 
Just seems odd that the "thingy" holding the arm engaging kick wheel could be bent/snatched, but I guess I have to give in on this one :)

I never removed rocker cover, looked at the valves etc. The only thing Ive done is remove clutch and therefore misaligned main and cam gear.
The gears in the picture are misaligned due to spring tension and piston tdc. When fitted with clutch wheel the cam gear dot is placed in between the two dots on the main gear. Correct ?

Thanx for all your answers. It helps a lot.
 
What LeFrog said. It is a bit of a pain to line everything up. I used a socket wrench to hold the crankshaft in position. Check the tappets. If the valves are moving, then you are 360 degrees out. Rotate the crank and try again. You will have to wiggle the clutch basket back and forth and use a finger to align the other two gears as well. When the single dot on the valve drive gear is inbetween the two dots on the crankshaft, you have it!
Here's Taffy's file: http://www.husaberg.org/modules/gallery ... C02816.jpg
 
It's also in the repair manual. You can turn the big gear with a big crescent wrench.
 
Thanks for all your help. it started on the first kick. perfect...

But after a few seconds of running the oil went milky and my mood got worse.
Apparently I replaced the old gasket with a new one that doesnt fit exact. Just bought a gasket that should fit from a husaberg dealer and on put on the cover side and mounted it. Didnt double check that it fitted over the coolant hole (which it aparently didnt) on the engine side.

My limited experience says that coolant (glycol) is a nightmare for any bearing... So this is what it feels like to be a moron.
I will jump on a new thread to see what can be done with an engine filled with coolant.
 
Coolant contamination, probably through the water pump. Check the seal there. It might need to be replaced. Some also add a bit of sealant around this area. It may not be super dramatic but you don't want the Bailey dispenser (as someone called it) effect either.
 
the gasket doesn't fit over the coolant hole. you have a rubber 'O' ring for this.

regards

Taffy
 
ok, so I will simply change oil a few times.

yes, I saw that I posted it twice but I blame it on my connection. aswered the first thread and then didnt find it. then I discovered that it was under general issues after replying to the second one.
yesterday was one of my worst days :)

been riding 2-stroke motocross for 15 years so Im not that bad with the mechanical stuff. but failing to check the gasket is probably the highlight of my career.
 
i'm going to stick my foot down and say "NO" you really really don't need to change the oil several times. fresh oil is all you need.

can i have some backing here please?

regards

Taffy
 
We back you, Taffy.

Now, p_kerttu, did you check the O-Ring that seals the water pump chamber? That's a common cause for the Bailey syndrome. I know.
 
have to admit that one is missing. the old gasket fitted over the hole and there was no o-ring. when I come to think about it its a miracle that the gasket separated the water and oil. but now I have gotten hold of an o-ring that fits.

so I'm going to fill it up now. motard training tomorrow morning.
we'll see if I come back crying about something else broken :)

thanks for all the help
 
Are you talking about the holes that make the water go through the left side cover and up? This make not be the main source of the problem.

Let me ask you again: did you check the o-ring around the impeller shaft, the one that seals the water pump? I've had to replace this one in the past as well.
 

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