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Broke kick start shaft

sandskipper said:
Dale,

I just hung up the phone with Dan from Motoxotica in regards to the kick start shaft on my '02 FC550. He does have a kick start shaft in stock and tells me he can ship it to me. I enquired on revision of the part and it is for late 90's-2002 husabergs. The shaft talked about in this thread is off a '03. Is the '03 the shaft I want and compatable with my '02 as this is the revised part and ordering a earlier part# will just get me older marginal shaft like the one I have in my bike now? Dan tells me he has two '03 parts on order and could have one to me by next week if this is indeed the one I should get...... Any help would be appreciated.

Regards,
Click to expand...

The shaft design has remained the same since near inception. The product quality has been random. What you receive is dependant upon when and where it was manufactured. Unfortunately, the only way to know for certain is to inspect it.

Hope this helps.
Dale
 
Can anyone answer me this, by looking at the pics I have posted in my gallery, does the wear that has occurred on the decomp device of the kickstart shaft have to do with the decomp cable not be adjusted to the proper lash? Is there any specs for this? I know the workshop book shows a 2mm play in the manual decomp cable but I don't know about the auto decomp??? Seems to me that the auto decomp device & lever were a bit off on alignment and this is why I have the wear on the edge of the decomp device and not on the surface. Any input would be appreciated.

Regards,
 
Well gentleman, the new kickstart shaft arrived yesterday (Thank you Dan @ Motoxotica) and I will be attempting reassembly today.

Dale, in a previous post on this thread you wrote:

LINEAWEAVER said:
EuroEnduro said:
Dale, could you fill me in on the newer shaft. Harder steel I hope. Ive had about 12 bikes and this is the first time I have ever broke a kick start shaft.

Thanks EuroEnduro
Click to expand...

Shafts.sized.jpg


The left shaft is that of the new design. Note How the splines terminate. In addition the threaded bore no longer runs the entire length of the spline and the shaft appears to be that of a different temper and / or material.

Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Dale
Click to expand...

My question is this, "I have what appears to be a shaft of the newer design but the part# 230 156-01 is different from that of the original part# 230 097-01. Looks identical to the picture you posted in every way but the threaded bore that runs the length of the shaft is much longer than the original? The original bore was about 23mm deep where the newer bore runs 37mm deep. The newer kickstart shaft threaded bore runs about 3/4's the length of the shaft before it gets to the lobe, the older shaft only ran the length of the splined diameter of the kickstart shaft and ended when the diameter increased. I am wondering if the part I have is an upgraded shaft or something else. I will post pics soon of the two side-by-side but it looks identical to the one you have pictured on the left with my broken one being the same as the two you have pictured on the right.... Anyways, Dan says the shaft I ordered is for an '03 bike but it fits in my '02 nicely!!! Will see what happens upon assembly today.

Regards,
 
Keith, let me know how it goes. I haven't yet ordered the part or teared it down. Any tips would be appreciated.

Thanks EuroEnduro
 
EE,

The project went good on reassembly. Took me more time than most but I am very annal about things being done right and I have many children with many questions. With that said the only thing that I should have done and didn't is this, before putting the clutch cover back on, place the paper gasket in place on the engine first and you will probably have to trim a little material from the gasket on the inside area of the water jacket feedthrew. There should be a rubber O-ring that is placed here for a seal and the paper will overlap the O-ring and get sandwiched keeping the o-ring from doing its job. I didn't do this but after posting it up on a thread here, I may be getting coolant in my oil. I will order me another gasket for when the time comes. All-in-all, if you have no distractions and good area to work in, probably about a four hour job or so. I pulled my entire exhaust system off and cleaned it up a bit before reassembly and this added some time in there. If you don't know already, remember that if you start fidgeting with crap like I did, make sure you align the crank gear dots with the cam gear dot. This will give you problems for sure if not done. Also, if you haven't done so before, this is a good time for you to move some of your clutch disks around and check your reed valve and oil pump, just for piece of mind of course. If I think of anything else I will be sure to post it up. If you have any questions send me a PM, I would be more than glad to give any help that I can.

Regards,
 
O'ya, by the way 2E's, Dan over at Motoxotica had one more of the kickstart shafts in stock when I ordered mine (pt# 230 156-01 / stk# 8003305000) and was most helpful in the business transaction. I an not at all pleased with my local dealer so I will just give a =D> and a :rock: to Dan and Ann over at Motoxotica. I would gladly recommend them to you as I am sure you would be pleased with their business ethics. Thanks again Dan and Ann, look forward to doing my business in the future with you guys :thumbright:

Regards,
 
Thanks Keith for the info. I've dealt with Dan in the past, and your right hes a good guy.
 
Two rides of about three hours each and the newly installed kickstart shaft seems to be doing its job. On the second days ride however, I had to go home a little earlier than I wanted as I seem to have forgoten to put some locktite on the small bolt that holds the kickstarter to the shaft. A few miles away from the staging area I was looking the bike over for leaks and such and noticed I had lost the bolt and washer but the kickstarter was still attached. Started the bike up and put the kicker in the camelpack and headed back to the truck and called it a day.

I do have a quick question, I changed my oil yesterday and everything looks good but I was wondering..... If I had a leak from the cooling system into the oil, what would the oil look like when drained? I used the LP Liquid Performance racing coolant and antifreeze with the LP3 which is premixed with deionized water for the coolant and the Delo 400 oil. When I drained the oil I noticed nothing indicating that I had coolant in my oil. Would the two separate like water and oil or would the two form a solution that you would not be able to tell? I had to add coolant 2 times to top off the radiator but this may have been air pockets that worked themselves out or just overflow.... anyhow, the third time I checked the system it was at the top of the radiator neck exactly where I had filled it to the previous time. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Regards,
 
When coolant mixes with the oil it usually looks like a chocolate milkshake.... yummmmm. If it ever happens, you will know it.
 
If I drain the fluid into a container and allow it to sit, will it separate over time or no? My oil did look a little (just a hint) brown but not that bad although I only added about 3-5oz. of coolant to top off the radiator. Just to be safe I should probably remove the side cover and seal again this time trimming the paper gasket around the o-ring at the water jacket feedthrough. Also, Should I put a light coat of RTV on the paper gasket upon reassembly or is that not needed?

Thanks,
 
It sounds like you are OK. Try riding it again and seeing how the coolant holds up. Like I said, If you have coolant in the oil...you will know it. It is very obvious.
 
the coolant oil mix is a creamy white oil with a hint of black. you'll know! watch that gasket overlaying the 'O' ring in your sidecover!

regards

Taffy
 
Taff, You said you had a problem of coolant getting into your oil a few months back, how long before the problem occured? Was it right after assembling the bike back together or did it take a few days or weeks before it let loose?

Regards,
 
immediate. soon as i started the bike up the inspection window went from clear, new oil to looking like guinness! don't panic, the bike will run fine like that for quite a while but obviously you need to start again.

the other thing is about the coolant. if you've 'dropped' your coolant it will take two rides of topping up before it stabilises. if you look at the owners manual it indicates that the bike runs with the coolant 1" down and just over the 'veins'. get used to that.

regards

Taffy
 
Taff,
Thanks for the reply and clarification. Sounds exactly like what I have seen over the last two days.... talking about my coolant level stabilizing. However, when I look in the oil window while my bike is running, I do see what appears to be guiness! I will monitor this for one more ride but think I am going to pull the cover and reseal again, this time trimming up the gasket and putting a little RTV on as to keep me sleeping well at night. The oil looked a little brown(just a slight tint) when I dropped the fluids but mostly black. I just don't think im gona sleep well if im unsure about what is going on. I don't want anything seizing up on me in the future....

Regards,
 
lay it on it's side and let everything drain out onto a large tray for a day, it'll still be coming out tomorrow week!!!!

i think it was you (on another thread) i told to watch for the gasket/'O' ring problem!

i think you need to swallow the owners doc' fella!

regards

Taffy
 
Ya Taff, that was me! I did not post that problem until I had already put everything back together and now im just trying to monitor and learn from it all.

Regards,
 

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