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Auto decompression shaft 05 vs 04

I have mouted my deco weight today with a weld point

At this opprotunity I also have chanced the timing chain.

And now the engine doesnt start.!!!

I´m abslolutly sure the chain is correct mouted.
The valves clearance is the 1/8 turn method.
Nothing else is changed.

Doing my regular strating prodedure (3 kicks with, then without choke) twotimes it was a backfire in the exhaust..

Also blazing is the the e-start freewheel goes "inanely"
The freewheel is 3 mounth old and nearly not uses!!
Up to now the e-start doesnt turn the engine.

Is the welding point to high???

Its about 3 mm, the shaft at the cam is on highest position.
 
Husa 98:

I am not an expert at timing a Berg but it sounds like a classic case of being 1/2 of a tooth off. This problem/post seems to come up every so often. One tooth off at the balance shaft = 1/2 tooth at the top.

Also read Husby's post regarding timing:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I suppose that the ignition timing is identical in al the engines.1st. you must have to put the piston on TDC. To do this, 1st. remove the spark plug, then insert your finger on the hole and rotate the engine untill you fill the compression rise up. Then insert a pencil or a screw driver, (be carefull don't loose anything on that hole) and while you rotate the engine feel the piston rise, when on the top is at TDC. Remove the valve inspection covers, and feel the valves, they must be fully closed and you must feel the gap between them and the rockers. If they are fully closed and there is a gap on them its OK. The clearence must be 0,10. Open the ignition cover and check the ignition position. The stator must be centered on its screws. Now replace the ignition cover. This has a hole with a plastic cover, remove it and observe if the right mark (attention is the right one) is properly aligned with the mark on the stator, if don't you must adjust the stator on it's screws.

To check the ignition timing, you must remove the transmission cover, and the valve rocker cover and with the piston on TDC (as previous) you must see 2 gear weels. One is from the crank shaft on top and the other just bellow is from the oil pump. These wheels in some engines are marked in others don't. If they are marked you must see on the crank wheel a dot and on the oil pump wheel 2 dots. The one dot from the wheel above must be aligned just between the other 2's.
Now check the valve rocker wheel just on top of the head. You can see it's secured by 2 bolts., and there is a tiny one adjacent to one of them. This one is to work with the automatic decompressor. One of the bolts which secure the rocker wheel and it's near the other tiny one must be centered on the top and you must observe the cam lobes are fully down which indicate that the valves are fully closed.

These are the procedures to obtain a good valve and ignition timing.

For the carburator:
Inspect the needle and put it on the 3rd groove. Inspect the needle body for any wear, if there is, replace it and also the needle jet.
Close the air mixture screw (full clockwise). Than going out 1 1/2 turn.
Try to start the engine let him warm a bit and deal with the Idle screw and air misxture screw, with this one don't go further than the 2 1/2 turns out.

If the simptoms continue, probably you have a short circuit somewhere on your wires.
Keep in touch


The starter sprag clutch could be just spinning due to the ineffectiveness of your autodecompression device (because of a timing problem) and very cold weather.
 
decomp

Husa98, the 05 auto decompression parts will work in your bike, the only catch is, you will have to use 05 cam, as the lifter spring and associated parts are different from previous years. Definitely PM BOSS on this web site and he will give you the rundown. My bike is an e-start model with the e-start removed. With the 05 cam and auto decomp parts the bike starts easy, hot or cold. Hope this helps.
 
@husabutt.

I think you are right.

No other statement possible.

I have the new chain hung at the old chain and spin the flywheel until the new chain was in. I dont openend the clutch cover..

Than I checked the piston ist exactly on the TDC position, installed the camshaft with the cam lubes down and the bolt from the camshaft gear is on the top and closed the chain.

I hope I find the right position without open the clutch cover!!!


A procedure i have done sometimes before.

****.


The disadvantage in comparison with my old 98er berg is, I have to dismount the exhaust silencer and the exhaust pipe to loosen the timingchain tensioner.... fuckfuckfuck


@bendberg:

Thanks für your tip.
When this welding solution doesnt work, I will try it if I found money, or still kicking... The camshaft ist "unfortunatally" still ok.
 
Husa 98:

Once you sort out the timing you could check the effectiveness of the autodecompression device modification you made by doing a compression test.

There is a post by lineaweaver wherein he states that:

The auto de-comp. bleeds only a fraction of the trapped charge engaging near 85 BTDC and closing near 15 BTDC with a peak valve lift of less than .040". "E" Cranking compression should be roughly 130 psi with said system active
 
husabutt said:
Husa 98:

The auto de-comp. bleeds only a fraction of the trapped charge engaging near 85 BTDC and closing near 15 BTDC with a peak valve lift of less than .040".

"E" Cranking compression should be roughly 130 psi with said system active


I dont understand the first sentence....

Please again in simply words :wink:

Compression test with tester in the sparkplug hole?
 
armin

it means that the 'bump' should = 1mm (0.040") of lift maximum. it should be between 85 and 15 BTDC. if this is correctly set up then the following should also apply;

remove the plug and fit a compression tester. crank the engine with the electric starter and the meter should read 130PSI (or the metric equivelant).

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
armin

it means that the 'bump' should = 1mm (0.040") of lift maximum. it should be between 85 and 15 BTDC. if this is correctly set up then the following should also apply;

remove the plug and fit a compression tester. crank the engine with the electric starter and the meter should read 130PSI (or the metric equivelant).

regards

Taffy

Thanx taffy,

the information about the maximum lift fo 1 mm has been useful for me bevor welding ....I think ist a little bit more....

what meens "between 85 and 15 BTDC"

Taffy, I havent gotten any answer to my email from wössner . Tomorrow I call them by phone...
 
thanks armin-see how you get on.

don't worry about these cam timing figures. just make sure you have a nice curved 'bump' and that the cam timing is correct with both lobes at 11 and 1 o' clock when at TDC. get that right and everything else follows.

regards

taffy
 
OK, now on this rainy sunday I will go in the garage and do my very best.

As backfireing in the exhaust, I try to move the timingchain one tooth clockwise, looking at the camshaft gear.
 

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