A problem with start freewheel

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Joined
Jan 10, 2008
Messages
84
Location
Finland
I have a problem with my '07 FE450e. I bought my bike secondhand last autumn and it had a problem with the freewheel. It didn't hold as I tried to start the engine (room temperature). I replaced it and the new one worked well less than 10 hours of practicing/racing. Any ideas what would solve the case? We have our annual 1000 km enduro race starting the 28th and I would like to have a reliable start. Kickstarting the bike can feel a bit exhausting after you have dug and lifted the bike from snowy mud...
 
Hannu said:
I have a problem with my '07 FE450e. I bought my bike secondhand last autumn and it had a problem with the freewheel. It didn't hold as I tried to start the engine (room temperature). I replaced it and the new one worked well less than 10 hours of practicing/racing. Any ideas what would solve the case? We have our annual 1000 km enduro race starting the 28th and I would like to have a reliable start. Kickstarting the bike can feel a bit exhausting after you have dug and lifted the bike from snowy mud...

Hi Hannu,

I presume you mean the torque limiter I had the same problem, what you can do is undo the nut that holds it together once apart you will see a friction compound on one side this is what wears and resulting in starter slip.
What you can do is reshim it so when you reassemble it there is more pressure pulling it together. I did this on the original one and it works fine.
I think I used a 20 thou shim washer, once tightened up test it with a torque wrench I think mine slipped at 25Nm. Save a lot of money on buying a new one.
If you want my reworked one you are welcome to it just send me your old unit.

Regards

Sparks.
 
RE: Re: A problem with start freewheel

I'll try to find a shim and open the engine tomorrow. Thanks for the advice. Excellent forum.

- Hannu
 
RE: Re: A problem with start freewheel

Hi Hannu,

I presume you mean the torque limiter I had the same problem, what you can do is undo the nut that holds it together once apart you will see a friction compound on one side this is what wears and resulting in starter slip.
What you can do is reshim it so when you reassemble it there is more pressure pulling it together. I did this on the original one and it works fine.
I think I used a 20 thou shim washer, once tightened up test it with a torque wrench I think mine slipped at 25Nm. Save a lot of money on buying a new one.
If you want my reworked one you are welcome to it just send me your old unit.

Regards

Sparks.
--------------------------------
Done with the freewheel. Took it apart and cleaned it with solvent and changed the spring which holds the friction pieces together. The new spring is from front fork's dust cover. It is a bit heavier than the original one and the grip should be a bit tighter. Time will tell if it is ok.
BTW Sparks, my freewheel does not have a nut to tighten, yours must be different model. Mine is '06 FE450.

-hannu
 
Hold on! Don't put that engine cover back on yet. I believe Sparks is referring to the torque limiter - circled in red below...

torque-limiter.jpg
 
Mogly406 said:
Hold on! Don't put that engine cover back on yet. I believe Sparks is referring to the torque limiter - circled in red below...

torque-limiter.jpg

That's the critter.
As the compound wears it relieves the pressure hence the slip, by shimming it you are replacing the tension. And the wear is only small it only took a 20 thou shim washer to restore the tension on mine.

Regards

Sparks
 
Same little stupid critter... Opened, cleaned the whole thing, replaced the spring. Worked well before I ran the engine for 15 mins. Then hickups again..
Where did you put the shim? Mine has no nut to tighten, it holds together with a clip ring. Should I put the shim under the clip?

-hannu
 
mine had no clip ring, just a large nut on the outside. i removed the assy, put it in a vise with thick rubber protecting the inner gear and unscrewed the nut which then will allow the nut and shaft to come out of the assy revealing the spring washer (very slight curve). i believe what sparks did was to shim the spring washer, adding about .015-.020" to it and then reassembling.
 
ned37 said:
mine had no clip ring, just a large nut on the outside. i removed the assy, put it in a vise with thick rubber protecting the inner gear and unscrewed the nut which then will allow the nut and shaft to come out of the assy revealing the spring washer (very slight curve). i believe what sparks did was to shim the spring washer, adding about .015-.020" to it and then reassembling.

You got it one Ned, but I think Hannu is talking about the sprague clutch. The torque limiter is the first gear driven off the starter motor shaft.
Take a look at the photo again Hannu. All the torque limiters are all the same.

Regards

Sparks.
 
Got the message... Misunderstood the parts. The repair manual and the spareparts manual differ from each other. Torque limiter is called idler and in spareparts manual it is called gear wheel. Free wheel is a free wheel in both. (the wheel left of the torq limiter).
To me my problem sounds a slipping free wheel as it worked fine just after the last repair. Next I take it apart again and check the torq limiter. If it doesn't help, I'll do something violent to my bike...
ps. is it possible to copy/paste pictures to this forum? I have graphics from the repair manual I would like attach.
 
according to the doc, sparks used a 15 thou (.015") also known as 0.4mm shim.

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
according to the doc, sparks used a 15 thou (.015") also known as 0.4mm shim.

regards

Taffy

I've got some valve spring shims down in the garage.
Is a slipping torq delimiter a common problem? None of the guys I asked for advice mentioned the delimiter..
 
Replaced the slipping torque delimiter. Did not help. Veeeery disappointed. This Berg has not been a pleasant experience.... :(
 
do all the solid ones have a 'nut' in them and all those with a clutch have no nut?

hannu
have you ever found the real problem?
try giving the syptoms once more?

regards

Taffy
 
No, I haven't found the root cause. Symptoms are: when trying to start with E-starter, the start spins ok, tries to spin the engine, maybe half a turn, then starter spinning with no load.
What if my auto decomp did not function and starter would spin the engine with full compression and the freewheel and torq delimiter would wear rapidly. I changed the torq delimiter, but the freewheel has been there for 10 hours.

Hannu
 
well sorry for not understanding you earlier (not all my mistake i think) but your problem is the sprague bearing. you have 100% symptoms of this problem.

change the sprague and you'll be ok.

regards

Taffy
 
Hanu,

also do not use the e-start for cold starts on regular baisis,kick start first then when warm use e-starter! Make sure your valves are adjusted @ a snug 4 thou.
 
Taffy said:
well sorry for not understanding you earlier (not all my mistake i think) but your problem is the sprague bearing. you have 100% symptoms of this problem.

change the sprague and you'll be ok.

regards

Taffy

Hi Taffy,

Can I ask you to elaborate as I am not following you on this... Isn't the sprague a one way assembly for starting regardless of e or kick. I would have thought the question "will it start by kicking" needs to be asked to sort out whether it is the sprague or the torque wheel limiter.

The reason I am asking is my low hour 06 is doing the same thing as Hannu's and I am focused on the torque wheel limiter as it will not e-start (the starter hits then breaks loose and free wheels) but I can kick start it fine.

Thanks

Mark
 
sprague assy is only for estart. kicker drives the clutch basket directly thru a separate idler gear.
 
as young ned says, the kicker is direct to the clutch drum ring gear while the e-start goes through this 'idler clutch' then the sprague before arriving at the very same clutch drum ring gear.

hope this helps

regards

Taffy
 

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