A little help? Pics included. 2002 650 melted piston?

Taffy · Jun 25, 2014

can you blow down the oil feed at the end of the crank?

use a 9mm spanner and take the nipple off the end and then do it again.

regards

Taffy

GAVBEY · Jun 25, 2014

Taffy said:
can you blow down the oil feed at the end of the crank?

use a 9mm spanner and take the nipple off the end and then do it again.

regards

Taffy

Hi taffy,

Where would I find this nipple? Once ive split the case and got the crank out?

Also how do I check axial play before I remove the crank? Do I try and move it side to side if I can?

Thanks taffy

zaga · Jun 25, 2014

Hi

Just to make a summary about the chain and your questions:

You need a new chain

You need a new sprocket (lower), and please check the cam sprocket

You have the upgrade version of the chain slide (black one), so that's the upgrade, no upgrade in the tensioner

You should change the other blade (brown one), I probably have one used for you, if you want

The marks on the cover are ok, no problem with that

Hope I haven't forgot anything

ZAGA

GAVBEY · Jun 25, 2014

edelweiss said:
I think the sleeve should have thread inside and thus be something like 2in1 with the nut on its end. I just ordered the original part. when it arrives i will make pix and post. your solution is not so bad, the nut is a lock nut. the idea is, when the nut falls off, many disgusting things can happen. and it seems to me, something like this allready happened in your engine, somebody just put it together with minimum investment.

Ahh I get you. Well how about I tap out the metal bush to 6mm and use a 6mm bolt while drilling out the head to 6mm then that way there is no nut to drop?
I'd obviously use thread lock too

Taffy · Jun 25, 2014

well I'd say the cam chain is about OK. if the clickers left on the tensioner are correct you have used virtually none of it. this is typical of an IWIS chain.

what Zaga says is about right.

you need to slap the crank from left to right hard but when doing it from the clutch side you need to put a deep reach 10mm socket over the nipple to protect this. I also use a copper hammer.

you are then feeling with your fingers for give and movement in the crank across from left to right. if the crank is free running then that is also OK.

the piston is a Wossner.

the oil pressure and feed can be 'dickie' on those 01-03s.

Taffy

zaga · Jun 25, 2014

This is the nipple Taffy is talking

edelweiss · Jun 25, 2014

GAVBEY said:
Ahh I get you. Well how about I tap out the metal bush to 6mm and use a 6mm bolt while drilling out the head to 6mm then that way there is no nut to drop?
I'd obviously use thread lock too

good idea in my opinion, your hole for bolt in the head looks loose anyway

GAVBEY · Jun 25, 2014

Ok spot on. Thanks for the help boys.

I went to my friends as he thought he had the right puller. It wasn't. So I'm just sainting for mine to be delivered before I can split the cases.

On another note. Watch this video. It sounds like the small end has gone?

Husaberg fs 650 slack! Big end or small end. - YouTube

Thank you very much guys. Your help has been fantastic so far.

Dr_C · Jun 25, 2014

The main bearings (or counter balance bearing) seem a little bit suspicious to me... The cam chain should not make any marks in the housing behind the lower cam sprocket. Anyways, is just world championship in speculations until you've split it! Good luck!

GAVBEY · Jun 25, 2014

Very true. Hopefully this tool will come soon. Then i have a better look

I think the chain slapping and stretch might be coming from the slap of the piston? That play would of been causing a jerk putting exessive strain on the chain?

Parts list is getting nice and long while my bank ballance is getting shorter haha

Taffy · Jun 26, 2014

that's little end bush IMHO. they are always going. that is why you are getting a dull tap in the piston. if the big end was gone you wouldn't get that noise.

regards

Taffy

GAVBEY · Jun 26, 2014

Taffy said:
that's little end bush IMHO. they are always going. that is why you are getting a dull tap in the piston. if the big end was gone you wouldn't get that noise.

regards

Taffy

Yes I think your right taffy.

I've tried to find play with the big end and it's real good. I can't really feel any. It's nice and smooth.

Anyway the flywheel pulley never came in the post. But I did find another little problem.

As you can see from the picture, the plastic wheel that turns the oil pump has some messed up teeth. Not a major problem but it's another thing I'll replace.

I then took apart the oil pump. It looked in perfect condition. No marks scratches or notches missing so I'm happy with that

The balance shaft bearings feel smooth but I've been sujested to replace them while I'm at it. As they can wear fast.

So I'm getting there. I can't find any other problems so far. Only thing I've to check now is piston/crank/bearings and then I'll have a nice parts list to buy the bits. I buy my parts from taffy but incase he doesn't have some bits and peises who else sells husaberg parts and upgrades?

Thanks again guys

Peace

bushmechanic · Jun 26, 2014

in case he doesn't have some bits and pieces who else sells husaberg parts and upgrades?

DCR in the UK can help you if needed, also he does a big bore liner and piston kit.

the best place for our parts is munn racing in the US , I have not found better prices or service from one place.

if staying with the 100m piston check the detailed specs in the wossner catalog to make sure you get the one you want, wossner pin is only 60gm.

http://wossneronline.com/2014_wossoner_motorcycle_pistons_catalog.pdf

page 40

much cheaper option is the Pro-X 100mm husaberg piston, there are 2 listed for the "650" so make the specs are close enough for you. the pro-x pin weight is 70gm, abt the same as oem.

GAVBEY · Jun 30, 2014

So a bit of an update.

I've split the case which my new puller.

I've taken a video of the play. It looks like it's the bottom and top end.

There are some bad scrape marks on the piston which I think is what was causing the stiff spots. Everything else looks good

.

I have taken a video for you guys. What do you think?

Who fancys the job of putting an new piston rings big end and small end on?

haha

Husaberg fs 650 big end and top end play! - YouTube

Thanks again guys.

GAVBEY · Jun 30, 2014

I'll update I'm a Minuit when my pictures upload.

Basically piston is dead, oil squirted hole was blocked, barrel has Nicosil chipped, conrod looks like it's overheated, small end has gone, big end has gone, main crank bearings have gone.

I'm gutted. I've just bought a house and I can't aford a huge bill to have it all worked on

Pics to come

GAVBEY · Jun 30, 2014

heres some pictures of my barrel. is it salvagable?
do you think the chip could be re nicosiled?

is it too far gone?

the piston has some major scrapes on both sides of the piston.

small end bearing is a bush?

the piston has survied apart from the scrapes and has no cracks.

Im going to send it to someone that can split cranks and do re nicosil plating

any sugestions?

Taffy · Jun 30, 2014

the liner wants re-coating and looks salvageable as long as it hasn't gone too far out of round. I have a technique straightening them.

the rod is junk I'm afraid Gav.
the problem you have is that without oil EVERY part of your engine wants the finest inspection and replacement if necessary.

have a look at all the recommendations on my web site for work done. buld cheap = build twice if you go up North.

regards

Taffy

bushmechanic · Jun 30, 2014

nice to know where the noise was manufactured

carillo now have the dimensions of you rod, lead time 8 wks, but make sure you specify the maximum OD of the big end, centre to centre length and make it clear you want a carburised rod, not one with an insert.

westwood in the UK who made my 105mm liner can make you an iron liner any bore size up to 105, they have the basic specs now.

you have to organize a custom CP or JE piston yourself and use that to spec the clearence to westwood.

if you'd like someone else to organise things Dave Clarke racing does a big bore kit and Travis at Thumperracing in the USA has done 102mm builds in bergs.

GAVBEY · Jul 1, 2014

bushmechanic said:
nice to know where the noise was manufactured

carillo now have the dimensions of you rod, lead time 8 wks, but make sure you specify the maximum OD of the big end, centre to centre length and make it clear you want a carburised rod, not one with an insert.

westwood in the UK who made my 105mm liner can make you an iron liner any bore size up to 105, they have the basic specs now.

you have to organize a custom CP or JE piston yourself and use that to spec the clearence to westwood.

if you'd like someone else to organise things Dave Clarke racing does a big bore kit and Travis at Thumperracing in the USA has done 102mm builds in bergs.

Thanks for the reply

I think I'll stick with a new stock conrod and wassnor piston. I'll get the barrel honed and re plated.

Is there a tougher option for the needle bearing bottom end?

Look forward to any replys

bushmechanic · Jul 2, 2014

carillo rod should be about $330

there are a few companies now offering PEEK coated big end bearing/cages

the main wear casued in the big end is due to the cage, silver plating improves things and then PEEK coating is supposed to be about twice as good again.

heres one, not sure if they have the size you need, there are many variables involved in the diameter and number of rollers

Untitled Document

I pulled out the oil pressure relief spring in my 02 and it looks positively hopeless

Im going to find a stronger spring in my box of bits to increase oil pressure .. this will increase oil supply to the big end as well.

I'll put the details up when I can.

A little help? Pics included. 2002 650 melted piston?

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