570 valves and cam chain noise.

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I think you just killed 2 strokes again 8) With all that mass reduction it would be a rev machine and responsive ! Would it hurt torque in the low mid range ? I guess it wouldn't matter when just wants to rev.
 
would make more percieved power and smoother tourque but have less flywheel effect so harder to control the rpm and may feel like less tourque but thats just a reduction in inertia

if you don't have the traction though it could feel like it was a bit mad. a couple models of the 525sx had cranks that most people found too light.

If it revs up too quick I say just make the thing bigger or get a better tyre, send a message to GWR (ktmtalk) of belgium to find out how big they really can go. he makes 660s out of the KTM version of this engine for sidecars. 80 -85 HP tourque monsters :shock:
 
back on the topic of valve adjustments... I've got a 2010 Fe570 here, noisy valves (intake) so installed a bigger shim, it reads on the tight side with the new shim. Started it up, sounds normal again, but after 10 minutes of riding it's noisy again. Any ideas? I'm using shims from "hot cams", not Husaberg. I can tear it down, check it again and go bigger, but it's acting a bit strange... I can't imagine that the shims are cupping or squishing that quickly.
 
remove the other shims you put in and check them for cupping. I hade some some that wore in the centre like a cup and the feeler gauge was actually bridging across giving me the indication the clearance was ok when it wasn't.

what were your final measurements for all valves?
 
I just pulled the valve cover off again and checked all the clearances.. intakes are .004 and .005 while the exhausts are both at .004. I didn't pull the rockers to look for cupped shims, but these are new shims with no more than 10-20 minutes of run time on them! I rode it again tonight and it's still noisy. The full story is this...

When fully heat soaked and shut down, the starter could not turn the engine over, it would try but it acted like the auto-decomp wasn't working and the starter just couldn't get over the compression stroke. I got a new cam under warranty and found that the auto-decomp in the new cam rolled out too far making an abrupt ramp that the rocker couldn't get over when starting. So, i installed the old decomp in the new cam and everything worked great, but since then I haven't been able to get it quieted down.

Any ideas? We've got a big ride coming up this weekend and although I think the bike would run ok I'd be more confident if it sounded right before heading out.
 
I'm doing my 570 race motard all the time, the clearances vary a lot. I have the Hot cams kit of 10mm shimms, they are in 0.05mm increments, a bit wide but i can live with it.

There is 2 ways to measure the gap and both will give different results, 1 is lining up the cam dots, I find this quick but unreliable, the other is to run the cam at max depression on intake and measure exhaust then the other way, this will give you better readings i believe.

I used to be a bit paranoid about it but now i just check em and slap em in. the husaberg steel gauge tool would make the job easier, longer angled gauges in the right sizes rather than doubling up. my bike has nearly 50 hours, 30 race hours getting flogged on the tar and i've only had to change shims a few times.

also, one ktm dealer wanted $25 to swap a shim, ProCycles in Hornsby wanted under $10 for a new shim without swap.
 

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