570 no start roll-over sensor?

Here's my 2 cents worth.

I had this very same probelm. I took my bike back to the dealer of purchase and he is doing a warranty cam replacement for me (thanks Phil)

My bike has a fully charged battery and it's only when the bike was getting hot and I was doing a lot of stop starting that it would be hard to start. I described the issue to my dealer by saying it is the same as trying to start your bike in gear with the cluth pulling in (very sluggish) or like with some bikes where you REALLY do need to use that decomp lever. He said this is a small issue with a very limited numer of bikes with the cam, and will be replaced under warranty.
Apparently some KTM 530's have the same issue.

eyspy said:

Here's my 2 cents worth.

I had this very same probelm. I took my bike back to the dealer of purchase and he is doing a warranty cam replacement for me (thanks Phil)

My bike has a fully charged battery and it's only when the bike was getting hot and I was doing a lot of stop starting that it would be hard to start. I described the issue to my dealer by saying it is the same as trying to start your bike in gear with the cluth pulling in (very sluggish) or like with some bikes where you REALLY do need to use that decomp lever. He said this is a small issue with a very limited numer of bikes with the cam, and will be replaced under warranty.
Apparently some KTM 530's have the same issue.

Click to expand...

Was it like this? I put another battery in and cleaned some connections while I had the bike apart. Started easy everytime all week long in my garage. A couple times a day I would hit the starter. Battery voltage never went below 12.8v. I go riding today and this video is typical. Next time after this video it wouldn't even turn over so I bump started it. Here is the funny part. I load up and drive home. Took about 1/2 hour. I get the bike out of the truck and hit the starter and it fires right up. I didn't even hit it first to charge the fuel pump.


Forgot to add that I rode it into my garage and check the battery voltage. 13.11v. I think I can rule out charging system and battery issue.

Check the multi pin plug that connects the starter button to the starting solenoid. Fritz had a problem with this once and he just hard wired the button in.

The next thing I would suggest is to replace the starter solenoid.

Stating the obvious here. This is definitely an intermittent electrical problem, the worst, that is most likely being caused by a loose connection, broken wire in the solenoid, or bad contacts inside the solenoid.

Oh, and of course the starter button itself!

tahoeracer


I just managed to hear your video finally and that;s exactly what it sounds like. If you still have problems I would suggest taking it to the dealer and talk about a cam tensioner decomp replacement under warranty.

Update:
Things have been going well. Occasionally it would just click on the first hit of the starter when hot. But it would start on the second attempt. Until today. Up in the forest and it is dead. No click, no nothing. Unplug the kill switch and check all the fuses. Nothing. Try bump start and it turns over but is not getting fuel. All electric is dead. After a nice push home, I check the battery first. 12.99 volts. The starter relay has no continuity between the posts. I will replace it tomorrow. I jumped a hot wire to the starter and nothing. Not sure about that. Should turn over with voltage going directly in.

The Starter Relay under the seat has 2 big (looks about 6mm) bolts with heavy duty cables connecting them.
The Bottom bolt marked "B" is from the Battery and the Top bolt marked "M" is the cable to the Starter.

With a test light clip one lead to the engine (earth) and the other lead to the Starter Relay "B" Pole. If the light comes on you have a good earth from Batt negative to the Bike Chassis, and good power to the Starter Relay. If the light does not come on check your Earth lead and check your Positive lead on the battery.

Use 2 small screw drivers to short the Starter Relay "B" Pole to the "M" Pole. If the starter turnsover the Starter Motor is good.

Hold 1 finger on the Starter Relay, you should feel a definite click in the Starter Relay when you hit the starter button.

There is also a 20Amp fuse in the Starter Relay, check that is OK.

You can jumper a hot wire to the Starter to test the starter too, but you also need to check your Earth is good from the Battery Negative Terminal to the Chassis/Engine.

The Starter Relay can be further tested by disconnecting the 4 Pin Plug and supplying +12 Volts on Pin 4 (Red/White Wire) and Earth on Pin 3 (Red/Blue Wire) of the Starter Relay. That will make the Relay engage, you should hear/feel it click and the starter should wind over. Pin 3 is the Male Spade connector closest to the "B" Bolt. Pin 4 is the Male Spade connector closest to the "M" Bolt. The Relay coil is connected to Pin 3 and Pin 4 and you can measure the resistance with a multi meter also if you have one. Mine read 4.2 Ohms.

The other 2 Pins (Pin 1 and Pin 2) in the Starter Relay are +12 Volts via the "B" Bolt and the 20Amp Fuse. You can test them with a Test Light, 1 lead from the Test Light to the engine (earth) and the other lead to either Pin 1 or Pin2. If no Light the Relay is dead or Fuse broken.

Thanks Davo. I had hot wired across to the starter when I got home that day and nothing. Should have been the clue had my blood not been boiling. Ended up I had a dead cell in the battery. I think. Tore everything apart. Changed out the main relay with one out of my ktm 990 and changed the battery. Fired right away. I then put the stock relay back in. Fired right up. All was good. Rode over 200 miles this week-end. I did have some issues of course. Just can't have a trouble free week-end. The no start when hot came back. After letting it sit for awhile it fired up. Also blew the turn signal fuse. After stopping to replace it, she would turn over. Had a few guys with me so we bump started it. Strange thing is it was only charging 13.1 volts as soon as it started. Took about 2-3 miles to come back up to 14.4v. I am not worried about blowing the fuse. It did that the next day also. I re-routed my hot line from the battery to the starter relay to get another battery to work. I will change it back today as I have a Turn tech battery coming in the mail. 27 hours on the clock and three dead batteries so far. This is the first time the voltage regulator looks bad. It has always charge 14.2-14.6.
Another note is I was out scouting trails on Thursday. Short shifting and just putting along to ssave fuel. Went up this little tight trail and ended up boil the radiator over. Shut her down for about twenty minutes to get turned around. A tree had fallen over the winter and a rock slide block this little hiking trail I was on. I thought for sure I would have been camping overnight with my usual no-start issue. The Husaberg gods were with me as it started right up. Go figure.

Here is an update. I have 700+miles on my scoot. I put in one of Joe's TurnTech 5ah batteries. All is well. Have not got stuck since then. When it is hot now and would normally not turn over, it just takes a couple hits of the starter and that battery gets the power to turn it over. This leads me to believe that the real issue is a tight cam tower or whatever those ISDE bikes had.
On tight single track I've been riding lately(it was set up by a guy on a trials bike!), ECT have been running 220. I guess now that it always starts it's time for a fan.