Went riding yesterday and didn't get far from the truck when, without warning, engine made a grinding sound and suddenly quit running. Bike has 28 hours on it and has been totally reliable until yesterday. Rode it sixty miles the prior week end and it worked great. Engine still turns over easily and it has spark. Any ideas before I tear into it.
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Check the camchain and tensioner.
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Just guessing, but no tension on the cam chain could have drastically changed the valve timing.
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pistolpete77 said:
Not necessarily. The tensioner takes up the slack on the overun side of the chain, not the drive side which is kept under tension by the 'load' of turning the valve train so a slack chain on it's own would not directly affect the valve timing. The big danger is the chain could snap or jump some teeth on the sprockets which obviuosly would affect the valve timing. If this happened you could expect some valve/piston damage which would explain why it won't start (no compression). I hope this isn't the case. The chain would certainly thrash around alot though which has eaten away at the tensioner arm.
I've just experienced a tensioner problem at 15hrs.
The chain didn't break. Valve clearances are still good. The engine turns over freely. Has spark. When at top dead center, where should the flywheel mark(s) be. There is a line and a punch mark on the flywheel but I don't know where they should be when the marks are lined up properly (top dead center) on the cam gear. If the flywheel is incorrectly oriented relative to top dead center wouldn't this indicate that the chain jumped a tooth? Seems highly unlikely it would jump a tooth but this is all new to me.
I did find the root cause of the problem and it was me. I installed a Dirt trix Chain tension incorrectly as I installed the O-ring below the ridged shoulder as opposed to above it which cause the problem according to the Dirt Trix guys. I'm an ***** but told them they should put a warning in big red letters in the instructions since this is a very big problem if done incorrectly!
I did find the root cause of the problem and it was me. I installed a Dirt trix Chain tension incorrectly as I installed the O-ring below the ridged shoulder as opposed to above it which cause the problem according to the Dirt Trix guys. I'm an ***** but told them they should put a warning in big red letters in the instructions since this is a very big problem if done incorrectly!
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Looking at the the factory manual it makes no reference to any marks on the alternator flywheel when finding TDC. On the LHS engine casing remove the bolt just below the oil filler cap. At TDC there should be a groove in the crankshaft visible through the hole. When it is visible the timing marks on the camshaft sprocket & cylinder head should line up confirming correct valve timing. When you can see the groove in the crank through bolt hole it can be locked in this position with the crankshaft locking bolt (looks like nothing more than an extra long bolt). From the manual it looks like the alternator rotor is a taper fit with a wudruff key so it shouldn't move relative to the crank unless the nut comes loose and the key shears off. The crank sprocket locates on the crank behind the rotor.Is the rotor nut still tight?
Pulled flywheel and everything looks good other than the tensioner arm is worn out. Don't see how the timing chain could possibly jump timing. Doesn't make sense as to why the engine would suddenly stop but turn over normally when trying to restart it. I wasn't going very fast, motor dragged down briefly then died.
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Hey Schnell, the crank locking bolt does NOT give you TDC. Check this viewtopic.php?f=5&t=12862&p=108241&hilit=locking+bolt#p108241
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berglsmerg said:
Mines spot on.
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pegscraper said:
I have one of the first batch of 570's to hit Australia and it IS a Husaberg. Is there anyone out there with the same problem ? A few guys now have told me I'm on crack and that theirs are ok.
I dont plan on needing to find TDC very often anyway Maybe you bent a valve or two there Schnell
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