2008 FE450 cuts out when warm.

any ideas? just today engine starts when cold and idles well, after a short ride it dies. When cold it started well again but after about the same time cut out. Did this a few times. Does not want to start when last tried. Fuel getting to carbi ok. Plug looks normal, No strange sounds, however engine did feel like surges sometimes. Would this be a valve problem? electrical or fuel.
Anyone has this happen to their berg?

Hi Racer,

Even though it is the later type ignition there could be a problem, your symptom is classic to a lot of ignition problems, starts ok when cold then problems start when the engine gets hot, the cause is an insulation break down of the enameled wire on the output source coil.
I bet once it has cooled down she starts right up again.

Regards

Sparks.

Sounds just like what happened to my FC600 but it didn't cut out, just run poorly with lots of backfiring.When it was cold no problems, 10 minutes after riding the problem started. Had the Sparks rewind and it was back in business, runs great and starts so much easier.

thanks for the advice. I did have problems with the sem on my older bergs, but did not expect this on the kokisan. I will later in the week go through the spark, fuel, valves and then look at the ignition. I am wondering if the carbi kips electics would do this. Strangley the bike just stopped out of the blue under medium throttle. I initally thought it was strange/concerning. First thought was to check the carbi boot that can split and let air in. It started easily on the e start. I rode to a hill and joked that the bike may not start. It started easily on the kick start that I usually use...and went well. 30 seconds later stopped and would not start. When cold started, ran for another 30 seconds and stopped. same procedure three times. Got me to the road.

This would have happened to others??? I will let you know what I find. I have not checked the valve adjustment for some time, but I think this complete and instant cut out is more like ignition as you said. Has anyone else had problems with the kogasan ignition??

Update: have checked the valve adjustment and it is OK without adjustment. Examined the carbi drain plug well: no water, but some fine dust dirt, not much and not uncommon....don't think this would cause the cut out. Checked the plug spart: strong. Started the bike quite easily on the kick, two kicks and then tested the e-start: started easily on both. Road around and around the block waiting for the motor to die as it did after about 3 minutes about 4 times on the weekend before I had to be trailered out of the bush: bike ran perfectly. Parked the bike and let idle until the fan came on, then turned it off. Kicked and e-start both instantly. Could not repeat the problem of the weekend. Given that the bike went well I think it is an electrical problem somewhere....any more ideas before I start testing the stator. One thing though is this problem came after the first ride after putting one of those light weight batteries in. One thing is for sure the problem will not have vanished? Any more ideas?

I have had several wires break just where the wire is crimped to the connector.
a couple behind the headlight and a couple in the fuse block relay block. Bike would still start and run with a Kick but I guess all wires could break in a similar way.

You say that the fan is coming on which should mean that you have water in the rad.
Mine was cutting out when I had not realized that the water hose from the pump had been cut and the bike was getting hot. Eventually sorted when the engine went pop. Only realized all the water had gone when taking the engine out.
Other issues are the carb rubber you have already mentioned. Its not that obvious until you take the carb off.

Good luck.

thanks, I will have to take the bike by trailer to a track and ride until it cuts out not far from an easy push and check the spark when it cuts out.

update: since many cut outs on open fire road ride, I have sought to find the problem 1)gone around the block a number of times and no problem. I changed the plug, checked the left hand kill switch, and took to a track and not far from the car. Road for a couple of hours on close fire trail, single track and bog: no problems. Stopped a number of times and started on the kick starter and then tested the electic, no problems, however, sometimes it would not kick start but always first hit on button. I don't think the new plug was the issue or the kill button sticking. The hard kick starting a few times I think is just a four stroke thing as over top dead centre approach always worked. In summary the bug has not repeated itself. I will give the carbi a total clean and reset the air screw, but believe the mystery still exists. Will do another close to trailer test and provide more feed back.

Tappets.

Taffy

Subscribed because I am having the same issue but with an Fe570. Though I know I did something really dumb that I am pretty sure cause this. I very briefly reversed the terminals. I was replacing the OEM with a Ballistic and did not realize the terminals were reversed. Just touched it and saw the spark when I noticed but it seems to have fried something. I am replacing the coil but don't think that is it. I am going to look at the stator next. Let me know if anyone thinks I should start a new topic about my issue.

Now that I think about this I should start a new topic... see the new topic. sorry

thanks guys, Taffy yes my first guess was the tappets, but they seem fine, put feeler guage in and used the double check of the click up and down feel using fingures. When motor going, even when hot , motor idles fine, no increased idle speed that sometimes with tight tappets. I think it has something do do with putting in a lithium battery and using the trickle charge, but I used the right positive negative poles so maybe the trickle charge can over charge??? Or maybe the new battery is just co-incidence. Last test ride no poblem. Have not got around to it, but I am going to give the carbi a good service and adjust the airscrew to ensure starting when hot on the kick starter is the best it can be from the carbi aspect. The gremlin that had the bike cutting out a number of times I suspect may have something to do with an electrical part, the black box under the seat??. I don't think it is the stator...... but will advise further particularly if I work it out. I would not want to be stuck at the bottom of a steep value goat trail trail.....as my riding buddies may disapate.

If this is happening on a 570, then that rules out the carbi since they are fuel injected?

Having exactly the same issues. Cuts off as soon as it is warm. First looses power and starts misfiring. Can keep it alive for a while as long as I keep the gas open. After that it dies. Starts okay after cooling down for a bit but dies all the quicker again the warmer it remains. Assumed the tappets at first but didn't feel improvement after adjusting.
My next guess is the mixture control but didn't find time yet.

Were you able to solve your issue and identify the problem?

My problem appears fixed?

Let me recap the problem. On a fire access road cruising the bike just cut out...I immediately felt uneasy about this, but it started straight away on the e-start. Stopped on a hill for a rest. As usually when cold I kick started it without problem and cruised away down on an unsealed open road at about 1/4 to 1/2 throttle; cruising at 75km etc. After about 30 seconds it cut out, and would not start. After some time it started on the e-start, but would not fire on the kick. After another 30 seconds of cruising at speed, it cut out again. This repeated itself another 7 times and by then and after a number of hours I was closer to our trailer and riding buddies got the car. The cut out was after the same time. I assume the time meant fuel had run out or the time created heat in causing the cut out and it would not start till some time had elapsed (20 minutes each time). Fuel not leaving the tank or stuck float were considered, but the cut out was more like hitting the kill switch: not running out of fuel etc. When started idling and response was perfect and ran perfectly till the cut out again. Note this was not going into corners off throttle, but cruising down an unsealed road. It did not have the increased idle that often goes with tight tappets and the tappets were not tight. I thought it was the black box under the seat as the manual hints at potential problems in the Husaberg indirect way.

What I did: checked tappets and left unchanged. Checked kill switch and put WD 40 on such, but they seemed ok. Checked relevant connections. Cleaned carbi and found o ring on fuel screw broken and that may have impacted on the hot starting and I turned the screw in half turn (lean) and this improved hot kick start, but this was clearly not the problem. Replaced spark plug. I have tested the bike three times including deliberately over heating bike, slow trail and full speed riding. Problem has not come back. Spark plug!!!??? To be sure I could put the old plug back, but...... I think the time before cut out related to heat, and starting when motor cooled down. I think this because the bike was perfect at idle and running until cutting out. I have never had such a problem with a spark plug, but have heard this happens. Wish I had put my spare in the bike at the time. Givne the problem came about 8 times every 30 seconds and has not come back it most likely was the spark plug. If it comes back I will go straight for the black box under the seat.

Your problem is different your bike is running bad. This could be the stator? Check the easy stuff first. Drain the carbi bowl and see what is in the drain cup. Change the spark plug and check the cap is ok and on the plug. Let us know how you go.