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117 hrs then bang!

I will probably try to shift more cleanly after this. At least for a while anyway :) Until the horses need
to get cut loose :lol: But seriously, this wasn't cheep and I surely don't want it to happen again.
I ride a lot motocross track on CRF450. I'm used to powering from 2nd to 3rd and then 4th alot to make all
the jumps and obstacles. There's 3 tables in a row at one point where if I dont get opened up in 4th real soon
after the berm they are not getting cleared. I may be guiilty of treating the gearbox on the Husaberg without
enough respect after getting off the 450. I put 3 times as much time on the Honda last summer and fall as the Berg.
I really want to start enjoying my Husaberg on the mountains and trails again. And a little dual sport here and there.

Pollo
 
i had a similar experience with my '02 400. It started with just slipping out of gear all the time from second and into 'a neutral'. it would always pop back into a gear at the mere touch of the lever and then launch forwards. I think it was second?

anyway, pulled the box open and all the dogs were worn along the output shaft. indeed, if I've ever seen a knackered box it has been all along the output shaft with it's oval dogs that you can't really repair...

regards

Taffy
 
I got the motor back last week. Gearbox repaired, new cam chain and water pump seal. I installed it in the
bike and put on all the parts. Looks and runs great. Except for one thing. I cannot for the life of me bleed
the clutch. And I have spent way too long out there trying to do it. I have the syringe kit also. It seemed like
I had all the air bubbles out but still a dead lever with little resistance.

I may have to take it in for this. I hate too because I feel defeated. I thought I could do it.

Pollo
 
pollo said:
I got the motor back last week. Gearbox repaired, new cam chain and water pump seal. I installed it in the
bike and put on all the parts. Looks and runs great. Except for one thing. I cannot for the life of me bleed
the clutch. And I have spent way too long out there trying to do it. I have the syringe kit also. It seemed like
I had all the air bubbles out but still a dead lever with little resistance.

I may have to take it in for this. I hate too because I feel defeated. I thought I could do it.

Pollo
Click to expand...

You're pushing fluid up from the bleed screw, right? Make sure that your syringe and connector tubing are completely free of air (fluid right to the end of the tube) connect it to the open bleed screw and force the fluid up to the master cylinder reservoir.

If you are having trouble getting the fluid to go through (lots of resistance) make sure your clutch handle is not resting against the master cylinder actuator. Take the handle off completely to make sure.


Give it one more try, you can get it done in 10 minutes.
 
it shouldn't really take that long to bleed.just make sure you haven't pinched the o-ring on the slave when you bolted it back on the case.
..weed..
 
Thank you for the response. I did get it done right. It was a learning experience for sure. The problem I
was having was that the hose needed to be attached to the supplied fitting. The hose was to small to get around
the bleed screw on the bike. So I made sure there was absolutely no air getting into the line, That wasn't the problem. But there is a technique to removing the hose and fitting properly and getting the stock fitting
back on. And that is when removing their fitting to just barely pull in on the clutch lever to see the fluid rise
as you re-attach the stock fitting. The problem I was having was pulling in to far on the lever which left me
with little to no pressure afterward. I ended up getting a very good result with good resistance . I rode it around the block also.
The way I got the air out was to fill the syringe and pump it up to the top as I relieved my collapsable lever. I then
pulled the excess out with the other syringe over and over. I did several syringe full sessions.
I was a bit frustrated at first because I was trying to bleed it like brakes. Pumping up the lever and releaving the screw. That obiously wasn't working because I had some air up in the middle I think.
When I removed the motor, I had put the slave cylinder up and out of the way. That may have been mistake
sucked in more air. I wasn't thinking about bleeding my clutch at the time obviously.

Pollo
 
usually it's the 'O' ring in the slave itself. it's the same o ring as the cam cap so you get to double your value for money! i let the clutch fluid pee all over the workshop (ok, into a suitable receptacle) as it's only mineral oil.

regards

taffy
 
The dealer did provide me with a new O-ring for the slave cylinder which I installed.
Thanks again.

Pollo
 
Rode twice since it's been repaired. About 3 hours total.
Deciced to check valves just because I like to know where they are.
All of them were around 1/4 out with one intake near 1/3.
Set em all at 1/6 out , started the bike and felt good about it.
Will drop the oil before next ride also.

Pollo
 
30 hrs of tarmac bad for non cush drives...... I'm in trouble then. I've done 145hrs (10500kms) mostly on seal and gravel with no cush drives. Just purchased a set of motard rims with cush drive so when it goes back together it may last a little longer. I must have got a wednesday bike as ive had such a good run compared with some other story's ive read. I found enough bits of hardening on the sump plug to make me investigate. Tonites project at work is to make a clutch holding tool (prioritys you understand. The electricity can wait). If I can finnish the tool tonight then maybe i get to the bottom of the problem tomorrow.
 

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