i have been reading all the posts on finding the true tdc on your engine but they dont exsplain the dead stop method can some one help.i think this is why mine is dificult to start. i have fitted new plug all new jetts in the carb and still it wont start. im getting a few kick backs.and today i did the tappets.how do you mark the flywheel i read that taffy puts a mark 1mm to the right of the last mark and then uses a timing light.do you mark the fly wheel cover when you have found the tdc then mark the fly wheel and then set your timeing up on the stator inline with the new tdc mark?
the dead stop method for finding tdc help please
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Take off the flywheel cover, stick a T-bar on there. remove the spark plug and the rocker inspection covers. turn the engine over clockwise with the T-bar. watch the inlets go down (open) and then up (and close). now stick a screwdriver or rod in the plug hole and you should be about 1" short of TDC.
keep turning clockwise and when the rod is as high as it can go - you are at TDC.
regards
Taffy
keep turning clockwise and when the rod is as high as it can go - you are at TDC.
regards
Taffy
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http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?name= ... highlight=
this thread has a long explanation.
please check again about this 1mm mark? i didn't think that that was what i said (wherever you read that i said it!)
good luck
regards
Taffy
this thread has a long explanation.
please check again about this 1mm mark? i didn't think that that was what i said (wherever you read that i said it!)
good luck
regards
Taffy
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please explain where i've confused you? because someone else could feel the same way.
i'll try and double guess where you are going with this though.
first of all don't forget that you have the sidecover off so the mark through the hole is completely and utterly out of the window.
you are looking at a flywheel with a long bolt in the top hole vacated by the sidecover screw. you now need a teardrop to put on the bolt and for it to run really close to your protractor. that's why you are best having two nuts on the bolt sandwiching the teardrop. you bring it right in close to the protractor and lock it facing the middle of the flywheel.
with the protractor being blue-tac mounted you keep spinning the flywheel to a dead stop either way and adjusting your protractor and squidging (yes this is a technical term used by the works spagforth blue thunderflash team) it around till say it starts and stops say 25d before and 25d after TDC.
then where the protractor says 0/360 degrees is your TDC. this is then marked on the flywheel and painted (IMHO) to make it clearer for the timing light. undo everything, cover back on.
hope this helps and as i say, let me know if i've been a little ambiguous somewhere.
regards
Taffy
i'll try and double guess where you are going with this though.
first of all don't forget that you have the sidecover off so the mark through the hole is completely and utterly out of the window.
you are looking at a flywheel with a long bolt in the top hole vacated by the sidecover screw. you now need a teardrop to put on the bolt and for it to run really close to your protractor. that's why you are best having two nuts on the bolt sandwiching the teardrop. you bring it right in close to the protractor and lock it facing the middle of the flywheel.
with the protractor being blue-tac mounted you keep spinning the flywheel to a dead stop either way and adjusting your protractor and squidging (yes this is a technical term used by the works spagforth blue thunderflash team) it around till say it starts and stops say 25d before and 25d after TDC.
then where the protractor says 0/360 degrees is your TDC. this is then marked on the flywheel and painted (IMHO) to make it clearer for the timing light. undo everything, cover back on.
hope this helps and as i say, let me know if i've been a little ambiguous somewhere.
regards
Taffy
sorry taffy ive been in the shed makeing the dead stop tool.ill tell you where i got confused.when you static time as described in the husaberg manual it says find top tdc on the compretion stroke (mark on flywheel lines up with top bolt hole approx) then alighn the mark on the stator with the mark on the flywheel.i understand that once you have say 25d btdc and 25d atdc that the true tdc mark will be at 0/360 and you mark the flywheel at that point.my query is before you reasemble the cover do you now adjust your stator so the new mark you have made alighns with the mark on your stator when you bolt the cover back on. im sorry if i sound dumb i just dont want to make a mistake.the bike was abad starter for the previouse owner i have done all the other checks in the bad starting guide and they all tally up to be ok. this is the last job that needs to be checked and if the timeing is out due to the factory tdc mark not beeing true tdc it could solve the starting ishue
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ok i've got you.
the problem is that one of the marks on your flywheel is meant to be exactly TDC. full stop! you have now hopefully scribed the real TDC line on the flywheel and BTW don't forget you will NOT see a scribed line. it's gotta be bigger than that!
your second line wants to be the same distance away that the original pair of lines were. so now that's two lines. i do that line by measuring and scribing.
don't forget i've only done this once! and that was over 3-4 years ago.
simply strobe the engine mate. hold the throttle open until the engine has reached it's maximum advance. the new line should line up through the peep hole. if it doesn't - play with the advance/****** knob so you understand what's needed. stop the engine and adjust the rotor in the sidecover.
repeat the check.
eventually you will have a bike that revs, the line advances to the mark on the rotor and stops.
remember that i found the flywheel out but i also found the camshaft to be an even bigger culprit!
regards
Taffy
the problem is that one of the marks on your flywheel is meant to be exactly TDC. full stop! you have now hopefully scribed the real TDC line on the flywheel and BTW don't forget you will NOT see a scribed line. it's gotta be bigger than that!
your second line wants to be the same distance away that the original pair of lines were. so now that's two lines. i do that line by measuring and scribing.
don't forget i've only done this once! and that was over 3-4 years ago.
simply strobe the engine mate. hold the throttle open until the engine has reached it's maximum advance. the new line should line up through the peep hole. if it doesn't - play with the advance/****** knob so you understand what's needed. stop the engine and adjust the rotor in the sidecover.
repeat the check.
eventually you will have a bike that revs, the line advances to the mark on the rotor and stops.
remember that i found the flywheel out but i also found the camshaft to be an even bigger culprit!
regards
Taffy
chears taffy got it now.found out this bike was ***** to start from new and the origenal owner was told it would ease off once run in.it didnt and its only done 100hrs.it has been rebuilt with oversized valves in the head and the carb jetting was all over the place this has now been rectified thanks to dcr in preston. im going to check the cam timeing before i start and piston slap.so with abit of luck it will run alot better and start easeyer.i used it for about a week but it was hit and miss if it would start.
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