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Rich 99 FE 400

Joined
Oct 22, 2020
Messages
6
Location
USA
Hi everyone , this is my first post. My friend has a 99 FE 400 non electric start, he brought it to my shop, said he had to pull it to start bike, I checked the valve adjustment thought one was tight, all set at .10mm, checked cylinder leak down all good. I went to ignition test have no spark, tested stator all readings normal, 3k ohms red to black, 165 ohms green to black and 3k ohms green to red. I have two cdi boxes , one OEM and one aftermarket ( searched part # listed for this unit ). still no spark kicking . Pull bike with ATV will start. I have the flywheel off and there are only two permanent magnets one the ignition part of flywheel. I'm only getting 32VAC from red lead kicking. My question is could the magnets have lost strength ? The stator looks like it has been rewound, has red coating on windings. I have checked for intermittent grounds and connections, all test ok. I just don't want to start throwing parts at the bike to fix it. The bike has the OEM ignition in it now. Thanks for all of your help.
 
Hi thanks for responding, yes the decompression is working and adjusted correctly and yes it is with the plug out, using a spark tester, tried closing the gap on the tested no difference. Rich
 
G’day rich,
I’ve had same problem on 1998 husky 610 yrs back. Played with it for ages & was coming up with nothing. Turned out in the end that stator was stuffed, even after been rewound. Was putting out spark, but not enough to make good bang.
Put new stator in & all good.
Have since had same problem happen on 1999 fe400 I owned. Exactly same issue, spark, but not enough to make good bang. So got new stator & away it went. So try new / rewound stator.
Hope that helps. Best luck n have good day.
Cheers
 
the valve clearance should be 0.12mm not 0.10mm well at least that is what I recall? maybe I'm wrong.

set the fuel screw, idle and ignition timing with a strobe while it is running. essentially, the white static line on the black plastic looking stator should be 0.5mm to the left of centre as you see it through the window.

mark an extra line on the flywheel to the right of the first two - equadistant - and tipp-ex it white so it'll stand out. then make sure it is 6d BTDC at idle. check out my FB videos.

Taffy
 
Hi everyone. Thank you Gerba and Taffy for your knowledge on this subject, as for spark I'm not getting any at all , is it possible to have the correct test readings for the stator and not generate any spark ? Are two magnets on the ignition side of flywheel correct or should there be two more? I found a post on diagnosis of the ignition system on these Swedish ignitions , but was for a KTM, and it called for 200VAC from the red lead out of the stator. My concern is the flywheel magnets I can't find any information on testing the magnets and their orientation in the flywheel, if the flywheel is correct I'm with you Gerba on stator replacement. I will keep all posted, I have a few motorcycle shops here wondering also. THANK YOU for all your input. Rich
 
there will be a flywheel code near the middle boss of the flywheel?

but I can't see that being the problem.

we simply leave the red, green and black connected and everything else isolated. especially the orange.

Taffy
 
G’day Rich,
Never had any luck finding much info on flywheel magnets.

But easy way to find out if magnets are any good. Should pull stator/cover out off ur hands when put back into position. If that’s not happening, then possibly magnets are stuffed. Very unlikely that magnets are issue.

When I had the issue, spoke with few good friends that have been around for long time building engines, performance tuning/racing. Had them stuffed also.
A lot off talking n thinking. But at the end off the day can only be one off two things that are causing issue.
All it takes is for the copper to be off, not good quality or just rewound incorrectly.

Again hope that is off help to you.
Have good day.
Cheers
 
you can make out numbers in the middle of these flywheels.

the short flywheel is an FC and the deeper one is the FE which you need.

look, you've had it running once so it is a case of getting the spark so this is what I would do;
get the bike on a jack-in-the-box stand or a solid box so it won't wobble
an MX boot
plug out
plug cap off
HT lead 5mm from the rear r/h cylinder stud
only the red to red, green to green and black to black fitted
cover the exit orange with tape so it can't earth.
check the stator is like in the photo
check the flywheel is the thicker flywheel
check you can't grab the flywheel and shake it up and down about .010". if you can the mains are gone and that will explain it too!
get the kickstart arm up and around towards the steering head as far as you dare.
crouch so your knee is nearly in your chest with the K/s st the top
kick very, very fast. like lightning.
have someone else checking the spark visually. make sure thacable is around a little to the side so they are looking at the gap.

after that. set fir to the phuqer!!!!!!!!!!

Taffy
 

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  • Flywheel Comparison mine and OEM.jpg
    Flywheel Comparison mine and OEM.jpg
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  • FC v FE flywheel height difference (2).jpg
    FC v FE flywheel height difference (2).jpg
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I want to thank everyone for your input, I am leaning more towards the stator than the flywheel. I will keep everyone posted. Thank you all for your help. Rich
 
Hi Taffy do you stock the deep flywheel for this bike? And if not do you stock matches ?
I have tried you suggestion with the owner , still no spark , I'm going to keep plugging away. Thank you Rich
 
100412 in the web shop. it is brand new. 220gbp to you which I'm guessing is $270.

if your flywheel looks like the thicker one and the stator you have has a row of 4 coils opposite one coil with another 16 coils all the way around next to it you have it right.

attached is a photo of an FC stator with just 4 charging coils opposite the 1. 4 for charging the spark and 1 for saying when.

regards

Taffy
 

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