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charlvdw

Joined
Mar 30, 2020
Messages
19
Location
Cape Town
Hi, I'm from Cape Town.
I bought a FE 550e a few weeks ago, price was reasonable but I soon realized that I need to replace the main bearings.
Then lockdown(corona) happened, so at this stage I'm unable to buy the parts i need to fix her.
Hopefully that might change from next week onwards.
 
So quick question, is there any place where I can start like a build/project thread for my Berg?
 
Hello and welcome to UHE - Unoffical Husaberg Enthusiasts.

start another thread like you did this one or just carry on here?

I carry a large inventory of spares for them.

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
Hello and welcome to UHE - Unoffical Husaberg Enthusiasts.

start another thread like you did this one or just carry on here?

I carry a large inventory of spares for them.

regards

Taffy
Click to expand...
Thanks Taffy.
Its great to know you have spares, importing is just frowned upon at this stage, but as soon as thing returns to normal, I'll chat to you.
 
Some pics...
Don't judge, the price was good.
 

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there's more than that come on! that liner can't look to tasty after that little lot!

balancer bearings are unique to me I think.
 
two things to check. get someone who can do it really well to check the crank for "true" to less than .002" waving. they'll know what I mean. roller bearings are NOT ball bearings and "any old thing" wwill not do.

secondly, when putting it back together you need 0.55mm of axial float (left to right) and I'd be going for 0.7mm or something like that?

bassically, no shims on the assembly. none at all. rod needs .018" clearance. flywheels should be 60.00mm across the shoulders.

that has been running on its own ****.

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
two things to check. get someone who can do it really well to check the crank for "true" to less than .002" waving. they'll know what I mean. roller bearings are NOT ball bearings and "any old thing" wwill not do.

secondly, when putting it back together you need 0.55mm of axial float (left to right) and I'd be going for 0.7mm or something like that?

bassically, no shims on the assembly. none at all. rod needs .018" clearance. flywheels should be 60.00mm across the shoulders.

that has been running on its own ****.

Taffy
Click to expand...
Yea, it was real fun getting that inner race off.
What bearings would you suggest?
 
well rollers obviously still. we sell three types although if you put 'main bearing' they are in a shocking state. we are trying to sort out a backlog of poor workmanship....the ***** will pay for it don't you worry! (LOL!!!!)

The cheapest are good....the Pro-x. they are made by SKF really.

cheers

Taffy
 
Last edited:
Taffy said:
well rollers obviously still. we sell three types although if you put 'main bearing' they are in a shocking state. we are trying to sort out a backlog of poor workmanship....the ***** will pay for it don't you worry! (LOL!!!!)

The cheapest are good....the Pro-x. they are made by SKF really.

cheers

Taffy
Click to expand...
Cool, thanks.
So will I be able to get a replacement bearing for the balancer or do I buy a complete new unit?
 
you can't buy the balancer unit, you can't even buy a 2008 balancer complete. they're finished. luckily, we do a pair of balancer bearings. we get them made.

cheers

Taffy
 
Last edited:
So after a quick test it seems my crank is a bit spread. It measures 60.2mm at the big end and 60.7mm on the other side.
This is however me measuring with my vernier, and not a micrometer, so it might be slightly off.
On the dial indicator it out by about .25mm.

So now I'm wandering, is this because of the bearing it ran or did it run the bearing because of this?
 
I'm so glad you think of all the answers yourself but then give me the question again!

the crank didn't twist on its own. it was installed like that. it is not true. to prove it, hold it by the little end and walk it across the kitchen top like you are taking 'fifi' for a walk.

I would like a photo of you doing it of course!

the crank will wobble like a man walking with a bad hip.

roller bearing cranks MUST be perfect.

the only get out clause for the tosser who did the job is that the crank had come apart that many times that it took under 12 tons to press it together. again, a good crank man will know.

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
I'm so glad you think of all the answers yourself but then give me the question again!

the crank didn't twist on its own. it was installed like that. it is not true. to prove it, hold it by the little end and walk it across the kitchen top like you are taking 'fifi' for a walk.

I would like a photo of you doing it of course!

the crank will wobble like a man walking with a bad hip.

roller bearing cranks MUST be perfect.

the only get out clause for the tosser who did the job is that the crank had come apart that many times that it took under 12 tons to press it together. again, a good crank man will know.

regards

Taffy
Click to expand...
Cool, thanks, that's what I thought.
My crank is not twisted, its spread.
If it was twisted, it would have measured variances 90deg with the big end, not so?
 
well there are three 'not trues'
one forwards (obviously one is 'back')
spread out or spread in.

best thing to do is put a set square from carpentry or perhaps you have one in the workshop across the flat face of the flywheels at 9 or 3 o clock when holding it by the little end. it cannot lay across both flywheels if it has a 'foot forwards'.

you can also have both at the same time.

either way, the inside face of your rod will have taken a hiding.

If your little end bush is worn which they usually are; i'd split it, get a new little end bush fitted and and then put it back together having checked the ID of the rod's big end for wear and then I'd either go
rod kit
or
pin and bearing
or
bearing

along with that little end bush.

poor job....

Taffy
 
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I was lucky enough to find a good balancer.
Decided to go with *** mains and made some progress over the weekend.
 

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:hathat3:
Started yesterday, but the jetting is a bit of a sh!tshow.
The idle air jet which according to the manual should be a 100 is actually a 60. So i guess i'll have to spent a bit more time on the jetting going forward.
But going to sort out the wiring first and get all the electronics working.
 
charlvdw said:
:hathat3:
Started yesterday, but the jetting is a bit of a sh!tshow.
The idle air jet which according to the manual should be a 100 is actually a 60. So i guess i'll have to spent a bit more time on the jetting going forward.
But going to sort out the wiring first and get all the electronics working.
Click to expand...

that will be from one of my jetting kits. don't you change that out! :eek::eek:

I'll PM you some settings.

Taffy
 

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