1999 FE 501 Not starting

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Joined
Jul 21, 2012
Messages
27
Hi guys,
my Husaberg 501 is not starting after doing the Valves .. have checked the stator and it lines up with the first line ok?
could anyone give me a check list of things look at in order ?... my foot is about to fall off ... it sometimes starts for a little bit back fires a bit then dies any help would be great...
Regards Ben.
 
well you'll have a tight tappet in there. also, there are two top dead centres! one when all the valves are closed and one where they are slightly open on what is called the overlap. do them again and this time watch the inlet tappets open (go down) and close (come back up) and the mark on the flywheel will be at around 8 or 9 o clock. THEN you just keep rolling it around to TDC from there.

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
well you'll have a tight tappet in there. also, there are two top dead centres! one when all the valves are closed and one where they are slightly open on what is called the overlap. do them again and this time watch the inlet tappets open (go down) and close (come back up) and the mark on the flywheel will be at around 8 or 9 o clock. THEN you just keep rolling it around to TDC from there.

regards

Taffy
Thanks Taffy I'll give it a go and let you know how it go's...
Regards Ben...
I also noticed that the gap on the exhaust valve with the decomp was very loose and could not tighten it ...
 
well that light blue must earth out and that brown was probably used to help it.

I see you don't run a rectifier?

may as well check the red to black while you're there. you need 2,700 ohms resistance.

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
well that light blue must earth out and that brown was probably used to help it.

I see you don't run a rectifier?

may as well check the red to black while you're there. you need 2,700 ohms resistance.

regards

Taffy
Rectifier?... not sure what that is ... can you recommend an electrical test kit or something like it?
 
well I think that there's no rectifier there but I'm not an expert on electrics. look up your parts book and I think it iis listed. that won't be your problem here though because if it was running OK before it'll be OK now.

regards

Taffy
 
Hi
I'm also not a specialist but I will try to help.
Your stator makes AC current, and for the batt you need DC current, since the batt can't store AC.
So the rectifier will transform your AC to DC, cuting the negative part of the sinusoid of the AC. This rectification can be half wave or full bridge, but that doesn't matter for now.
You have 2 parts in the stator the black/green/red, for the cdi, they don't need any rectification, sice the stator makes one half wave rectification inside with a diode, the Yellows/blue, for lights and batt, needs one exterior rectifier a full bridge one.

So rectifier has nothing to do with hard starting.

Hope it helps
:cheers:
ZAGA
 

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