Engine strip and rebuild

Husaberg

Help Support Husaberg:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Cheers taffy thing is i have took the pins out without marking which one was neutral like a goon so i have no idea now, did you get my email mate?
atb Jak
 
popup said:
you got the head off..why don't you just measure the stroke.they are all 100mm pistons,it is just the stroke that changes.
its the swept volume you want ,not with the combustion chamber area added on.
pi radius squared by height. eg 50x50xpi(3.14)x82=643.7cc(644cc is my motor)
in that eg of what you done taffy,how did you come up with 150cc combustion chamber?
1000 divide by 7.6=131.6? is that how you done it? or have i got it wrong?
..weed..

I still havent worked out the cc, to measure the stroke do you put the piston to the bottom of the cylinder and measure inside to the top face of the cylinder? if so i did this and it was 60mm
50x50x3.14x60=471000
so does that make it a 470?
so it must be an fc470e cheers guys
atb Jak
 
you kinda f.... u. but you don't have to fret over it. stick all the pins in and then turn the drum using a bolt in the middle and a socket/T-bar etcetra all the way clockwise to the very end, then come back a teeny click. somewhere just back from the end of rotation the two shafts will spin freely and that is neutral. mark the place and get the bolt out and the star in. with the star in and the sprung wheel in the scollop the shafts should spin independently.

regards

Taffy
 
if i checked the CC it would be to rest a verniers heel on the headgasket (not the top of the cases/liner) and measure down to the minimum at TDC and the maximum at BDC. that is your stroke. also always do it over the gudgeon pin and not front or back. however, it does sound like you have a 470. :| :|

no email?

regards

Taffy
 
yeah like taffy says ,you want to measure tdc to bdc.
i'm not familiar with other husaberg motors,but the 644cc @ tdc with a 134mm conrod was 3mm down from top of liner or case & with the 135mm conrod came to 2mm below top of liner or case height.
i take it jak, that tdc is level with top liner?
fwiw i haven't ran a cam decomp or a kick starter decomp for over 3 years now & wont be changing it.if you have electric start,for sure run the cam decomp.
i just run the manual decomp off the handlebars.
i found i was having trouble finding tdc with the other 2 decomps.it seemed to be decomping when i didn't want it to,then i would have to kick it through the stroke again.
many times i have locked it up & stalled half way through a corner,if i still have a bit of pace up or a downhill just flick the manual decomp & she fires straight back up with minimal time lost,but.... each to their own i suppose.
..weed..
 
I just wanted to replace a broken gear selector and it turned into a rebuild.

Look at what an over-stretched cam chain can do and can anyone tell me if the piston and sleeve need replacing?

Cheers.[attachment=0:1fojsjmy]Piston.JPG[/attachment:1fojsjmy][attachment=1:1fojsjmy]Cylender.JPG[/attachment:1fojsjmy][attachment=2:1fojsjmy]Damage from Cam-Chain.JPG[/attachment:1fojsjmy]
 

Attachments

  • Damage from Cam-Chain.JPG
    Damage from Cam-Chain.JPG
    101.2 KB
  • Cylender.JPG
    Cylender.JPG
    80.4 KB
  • Piston.JPG
    Piston.JPG
    133 KB
give that liner a bloody good hone....10-15 minutes of it and i think even that may ot be enough to save it. not sure what that dark mark is though?

regards

Taffy
 
Just received the cylinder head from Taffmeisters. It had a full rebuild. Now reassembly;
I've aligned the two dots on the gears, the piston is now at the NEW TDC and the cam is on with the lobes pointing up at 11 and 1 o'clock. I hope that this is right!
I've posted pictures of the settings, I just need confirmation.
Cheers
 

Attachments

  • Cam Lobes.JPG
    Cam Lobes.JPG
    67.4 KB
  • P1010013.JPG
    P1010013.JPG
    100.2 KB
if those photos were taken at the same time without moving the crank then you are good to go!

regards

Taffy
 
*******! Engine rebuilt, bolted together and then I found a small needle roller bearing on the work bench and I don't know where it goes.
The starter clutch has it's bearings at both ends, so does the sprag. I've looked on the parts manual and the service manual to try and find where it goes. No luck.
It's the same size as the one in the casing that the starter clutch fits into.
Does anyone have any ideas?

Can't believe this....Typical..! :angry:
 
it goes in the back of the sprague outer gear.

pull it out and look behind....

regards

Taffy
 
:cheers: Thanks to you all for your help. Taff thanks for the good work. The bike fired up first time on the button and sounds sweet.
I can't wait to take it out for a spin.

Clint...
 
One gentile test ride after top-end rebuild. Oil and filter change and then one race now it won't start. Sprague is just spinning and it's had a Taffmeister's fix. I don't understand, could it be fully senth oil causing this? Putoline 10w50 API SL, JASO MA2.

Help.
 
No, I couldn't start it on the kick either.
I took the spark plug out to remove any compression and the sprauge still spins. :(
 

Register CTA

Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.

Recent Discussions

Recent Discussions

Back
Top