Hi to All, i am new here and my bike, a 550 fs of 2005 is new to me. It has the anti hopping clutch and the previous owner tell to me that is a racing bike and don't go neutral when you stop. I can find with difficoulty the neutral when bike is going slow. The oil in the clotch is ok. The bike has a 4 gears transmitions. What can i do...? Thanks...!
My 550 supermoto don't want to go neutral
Help Support Husaberg:
I have the same problem, very hard to get it in neutral when engine is running. I got the same answer as you, it's not supposed to be able to put it in neutral when it's running. I find it easier to go from second gear to neutral...
Hey lads
My 650 will only go into neutral when rolling and apparently this is normal for all the older bergs. My understanding is its a side effect of having an incredibly tight and short throw gearbox- it simply wont disengage once theres a bit of force on the input shaft. I have a standard clutch.
Once you get the hang of it you can always hit neutral coming up to traffic lights, give it some practice.
My 650 will only go into neutral when rolling and apparently this is normal for all the older bergs. My understanding is its a side effect of having an incredibly tight and short throw gearbox- it simply wont disengage once theres a bit of force on the input shaft. I have a standard clutch.
Once you get the hang of it you can always hit neutral coming up to traffic lights, give it some practice.
At a stop, rev it a little bit, and just as the rpm's fall ...click it in neutral from 1rst.
If that doesn't work, try letting the clutch out "just a little" as you rev it up a little. Just enough to make it creep forward.
Same as above, put it in neutral from 1rst just as the rpm's are dropping... as you are pulling the lever back in.
Timing is everything, it only will go in neutral if it's slack. It is only slack when shut off, or when you are coasting just right. Or you make it slack by doing the above...Savvy?
It takes a little practice but it works.
If that doesn't work, try letting the clutch out "just a little" as you rev it up a little. Just enough to make it creep forward.
Same as above, put it in neutral from 1rst just as the rpm's are dropping... as you are pulling the lever back in.
Timing is everything, it only will go in neutral if it's slack. It is only slack when shut off, or when you are coasting just right. Or you make it slack by doing the above...Savvy?
It takes a little practice but it works.
^This, my 570 doesn't like going into neutral so i click it into second then tap it down into neutral it goes in every time that way it seems.
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2005
- Messages
- 177
- Location
- Perth Western Australia
Hard to find neutral,
there's not much you can do about that, they are all the same.
I tried on the earlier 2000 model to fix it, by upgrading the slave cylinder , o ring , and piston, and change oil, fluid also. But nothing fixed it.
Again on the 2004-08 , much the same, just a design characteristic about the bike.
Just before you come to a stop just give the gear lever a light touch up from 1st gear with no load on the drive line and it will go straight to neutral most times with the engine running.
Takes some practice.
there's not much you can do about that, they are all the same.
I tried on the earlier 2000 model to fix it, by upgrading the slave cylinder , o ring , and piston, and change oil, fluid also. But nothing fixed it.
Again on the 2004-08 , much the same, just a design characteristic about the bike.
Just before you come to a stop just give the gear lever a light touch up from 1st gear with no load on the drive line and it will go straight to neutral most times with the engine running.
Takes some practice.
- Joined
- May 21, 2010
- Messages
- 593
- Location
- San Francisco, California
Ditto!
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2001
- Messages
- 17,028
- Location
- Ely, England
its most often the steels being a little warped.
second one to look for is clutches with 1.4mm steels in them. if they have them then they should be in the middle with 2 x 1mm on the outside and 2 x 1mm on the inside. if you run this set up you do need a clutch pill on the end of the rod
fully synthetic can lead to burnt clutches so you burn and warp the plates.
later models had a larger clutch M/C I believe? this would give a longer throw.
more control over the gearbox can be had by adding a second circlip - this time on the outside - to the selector drum.
also, the selector fork binds just like all the pre 2003s did. it might be made with thicker metal but it STILL has the same problem. where the forks hit the pins it blunts the metal on the fork and the base plate and spreads the metal out like a boxers nose!
regards
Taffy
second one to look for is clutches with 1.4mm steels in them. if they have them then they should be in the middle with 2 x 1mm on the outside and 2 x 1mm on the inside. if you run this set up you do need a clutch pill on the end of the rod
fully synthetic can lead to burnt clutches so you burn and warp the plates.
later models had a larger clutch M/C I believe? this would give a longer throw.
more control over the gearbox can be had by adding a second circlip - this time on the outside - to the selector drum.
also, the selector fork binds just like all the pre 2003s did. it might be made with thicker metal but it STILL has the same problem. where the forks hit the pins it blunts the metal on the fork and the base plate and spreads the metal out like a boxers nose!
regards
Taffy
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 3,871
- Location
- south east WA Australia
I reprofiled the shift star and upgraded the detent arm spring to a ktm 450s, more in line with other transmissions that i like
pics in "mongrel trailbike" and "700 kit on 80mm welded crank)
the husaberg design is easy to shift and very fast but it does have other issues
both my bikes get neutral easy.. unless the clutch plates are really badly warped
some roadbikes have a centrifugal stop (some small ball bearings that fling out when the shaft rotates) in 2cnd so that it is impossible to shift up into second while the wheel isn't turning
pics in "mongrel trailbike" and "700 kit on 80mm welded crank)
the husaberg design is easy to shift and very fast but it does have other issues
both my bikes get neutral easy.. unless the clutch plates are really badly warped
some roadbikes have a centrifugal stop (some small ball bearings that fling out when the shaft rotates) in 2cnd so that it is impossible to shift up into second while the wheel isn't turning
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 3,871
- Location
- south east WA Australia
Similar threads
Register CTA
Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.
Sign Up
