Oil pump upgrade 15mm wide

im fitting the KTM ATV 15mm wide oil pump, stock is 10mm wide

parts are in greek style tub providing inspiration for extra lube



apologies for the crappy phone pics

bored out the oem oil pump cavity 2mm deeper and recut the oil passages under the rotors. will put up a cad drawing of how to do that later



clocked all the round bits while it was in there and drew a new lid with a 3mm recess



couple of shiny bits



can see whats going on here i hope





there is an easier way to achieve this with a spacer plate separate to the lid i made one of those as well. advantage is that the recess for the rotor and the hole for the shaft don't have to be spot on, i have 3 sets of cases here and they are all different enough to make the one piece lid a no go for mass production .....

if you wanted to fit the rfs 12mm wide pump instead all you need is a 2mm thick spacer cut by water jet, ill put a drawing up later in case someone wants to do it.

more details on the shaft and pins etc later.



this is the part im using


(2009 ktm 525 exc ATV) 77038011000
Description: OILPUMP ROTOR 15MM G-164
Retail: $35.89
Your Price: $28.71

the 12mm wide one from the 525 rfs is G-95R

(2007 KTM 525 exc) 59038011012
Description: OILPUMP ROTOR 12MM G-95R/003

well there are only so many ways something can work, I choose one then start making it then change my mind 3-4 times and fiddle around till it really works :cold:

cnc mill removes nearly all excuses for making anything but this is not a difficult part to make with manual stuff

if you made a 2 piece adapter with a spacer plate and a separate lid it doesn't even have to be very accurate, could do it in a lathe or a mill quite quickly.

for the 12mm rotor just need a 2mm thick spacer and use the stock lid

for the 15mm rotor you could make a 5mm spacer and a new 2mm thick steel lid.

if anyone wants somewhere to start these might help

spacer dimensions for the newer cases, the older ones pictured above have more room

2mm thick for the 12mm rotor, 5mm for the 15mm rotor

OEM pump bore is 28.975mm at a clearance of 0.12mm between it and the rotor



lid dimensions FWIW I would use brass or steel, OEM rotor to lid clearance is 0.05 to 0.08mm and needs to be checked

for the 12mm rotor just use the oem lid, make it thinner and use CSK bolts if required

Ta Spanner

I remembered your great idea about the sleeve but im all sleeved out after the mains time for some billets, preferably Swedish

I got the measurements from my 02 for the location of the shaft and the rotor, they align nice in the 02 but not the 06 or 08 and the 08 is different to the 06 LOL.

there is a message from husaberg there i reckon about tolerances in how they just slap a lid over the top.

no sorry hacker my real job keeps me way too busy and pays far too much to make trading in trinkets worthwhile.

I plan on making some more complicated things for bergs in "injection" molded Carbon fiber at some time.

if anyone wants to make a heap of pump spacers or lids go for it .

I think its a great idea

assuming the main oil passage is there to begin with it would only be a matter of getting the angle "right". but any squirt is better than none right?

I would first make a flat area for the drill to start on.

the oil passage you are aiming for is quite big 4-5mm diam so hitting it with a 2-3mm drill for the jet thread is easy. if it goes wrong just plug it up and drill another one.

sure ill take some pics for you 550 and 650 cases you'll have to guess what to do with the 450.

Drilling piston squirter

the jet hole is 1mm diam and points straight at the center of the top of the bore

the bigger hole on the 650 is the one i drilled to lube the main bearing

02 650









06 550






if you remove the plug to the oil gallery from the outside front of the case and put a rod in there it will help visualize where the hole is

Thats a factory drilled piston squirter like in my 02 650

so you don't need to do anything maybe just drill it out to 1mm

or if you want to add a removable jet to make it easier to clean then it is the same as the std #100 pilot air jet in the kehien carb (1mm hole)

I cant remember the thread pitch or diam but it is very short

stock pump bore model



boring 2mm deeper breaks into the intake and exit passages so I rotated the grooves CCW

important part is that there is 10.2 -10.5mm of the bottom surface without any holes, so the oil pump can trap oil and push it over to the pressure side

desired shapes after machining, i made the grooves 4mm deep instead of 2mm , bit like porting.



12 year old camera is being difficult, pics of real bits soon.

did some surgery on the old camera, getting on a bit but its a good unit. ..

finished oil pump cavity



new pin hole 3mm higher up

increase oil pressure 02 650

the oil pressure relief valve is between the cases



late model oil pressure relief spring top, 02 below



OEM spring in this engine is providing 450gm force

found one that gives me 2-3 lbs should be 30-35psi on the 8mm hole



i'll test the oil pressure before it all goes together properly since it requires case split to get to.

testing the cracking pressure of the valve



put the oil pump cover on and used compressed air

OEM was 13-15 psi, i have it set at 35 psi, a bit over 3 lbs force from the spring is about right

I tested the running oil pressure today it measures only 20psi with the 3lbs load on the spring

with the cracking pressure set at 35psi I was expecting running pressure to be around 30psi, must be more oil going into the engine than I thought.

I will try 4lbs next time.

main advantage of the wider pump is the pressure is 20 psi even at idle .. low rpms etc