Oil pump upgrade 15mm wide

bushmechanic · Jun 12, 2014

im fitting the KTM ATV 15mm wide oil pump, stock is 10mm wide

parts are in greek style tub providing inspiration for extra lube

apologies for the crappy phone pics

bored out the oem oil pump cavity 2mm deeper and recut the oil passages under the rotors. will put up a cad drawing of how to do that later

clocked all the round bits while it was in there and drew a new lid with a 3mm recess

couple of shiny bits

can see whats going on here i hope

there is an easier way to achieve this with a spacer plate separate to the lid i made one of those as well. advantage is that the recess for the rotor and the hole for the shaft don't have to be spot on, i have 3 sets of cases here and they are all different enough to make the one piece lid a no go for mass production .....

if you wanted to fit the rfs 12mm wide pump instead all you need is a 2mm thick spacer cut by water jet, ill put a drawing up later in case someone wants to do it.

more details on the shaft and pins etc later.

this is the part im using

(2009 ktm 525 exc ATV) 77038011000
Description: OILPUMP ROTOR 15MM G-164
Retail: $35.89
Your Price: $28.71

the 12mm wide one from the 525 rfs is G-95R

(2007 KTM 525 exc) 59038011012
Description: OILPUMP ROTOR 12MM G-95R/003

tourist · Jun 12, 2014

cooo-oool!

1) How the hell do you know what to do?

2) i assume you need access to a cnc mill for this?

bushmechanic · Jun 12, 2014

well there are only so many ways something can work, I choose one then start making it then change my mind 3-4 times and fiddle around till it really works :cold:

cnc mill removes nearly all excuses for making anything but this is not a difficult part to make with manual stuff

if you made a 2 piece adapter with a spacer plate and a separate lid it doesn't even have to be very accurate, could do it in a lathe or a mill quite quickly.

for the 12mm rotor just need a 2mm thick spacer and use the stock lid

for the 15mm rotor you could make a 5mm spacer and a new 2mm thick steel lid.

bushmechanic · Jun 12, 2014

if anyone wants somewhere to start these might help

spacer dimensions for the newer cases, the older ones pictured above have more room

2mm thick for the 12mm rotor, 5mm for the 15mm rotor

OEM pump bore is 28.975mm at a clearance of 0.12mm between it and the rotor

lid dimensions FWIW I would use brass or steel, OEM rotor to lid clearance is 0.05 to 0.08mm and needs to be checked

for the 12mm rotor just use the oem lid, make it thinner and use CSK bolts if required

spanner · Jun 13, 2014

Nice stuff Bushie

I know what you mean the cover can be difficult to aline.

If I was to do it again I think I would increase the bore in the case
to accommodate a sleeve 15mm long and make a cover to fit over
it.

I spent a bit of time porting the oil inlets and outlets as well.

Cheers spanner.

bushmechanic · Jun 13, 2014

Ta Spanner

I remembered your great idea about the sleeve but im all sleeved out after the mains

time for some billets, preferably Swedish

I got the measurements from my 02 for the location of the shaft and the rotor, they align nice in the 02 but not the 06 or 08 and the 08 is different to the 06 LOL.

there is a message from husaberg there i reckon about tolerances in how they just slap a lid over the top.

hacker33 · Jun 13, 2014

Are you thinking about selling these spacers?

bushmechanic · Jun 13, 2014

no sorry hacker my real job keeps me way too busy and pays far too much to make trading in trinkets worthwhile.

I plan on making some more complicated things for bergs in "injection" molded Carbon fiber at some time.

if anyone wants to make a heap of pump spacers or lids go for it .

hacker33 · Jun 13, 2014

I've seen many of your projects.
What do you think of inserting the oil jet to the engine case?
I have 2004 engine without the oil jet that cools the piston.
I want to drill oil passage and put jet from husaberg >2005.
What do you think or what I must remember?
Is this possible?

bushmechanic · Jun 13, 2014

I think its a great idea

assuming the main oil passage is there to begin with it would only be a matter of getting the angle "right". but any squirt is better than none right?

I would first make a flat area for the drill to start on.

the oil passage you are aiming for is quite big 4-5mm diam so hitting it with a 2-3mm drill for the jet thread is easy. if it goes wrong just plug it up and drill another one.

hacker33 · Jun 13, 2014

Ok. Thanks.
Do you know or you can check if the jet squirts upright or at an angle (to the center of the piston)?

bushmechanic · Jun 13, 2014

sure ill take some pics for you 550 and 650 cases you'll have to guess what to do with the 450.

bushmechanic · Jun 13, 2014

Drilling piston squirter

the jet hole is 1mm diam and points straight at the center of the top of the bore

the bigger hole on the 650 is the one i drilled to lube the main bearing

02 650

06 550

if you remove the plug to the oil gallery from the outside front of the case and put a rod in there it will help visualize where the hole is

hacker33 · Jun 14, 2014

I see this little hole (0,5mm maybe 0,6mm) in my case.
So I can use them as pilot hole for my drill?
The length of this hole to the oil gallery is 5mm. It's very short.
What length of the thread has oil jet?

AND
If I have oil hole in my case which gives some oil "squirt" to the top of piston, what is the meaning to mounting oil jet with this same size?
Is this oil jet gives a conical shape of squirt or longer stream?

PS.
Ok. I think that little hole just gives oil droplets that flow down to the balancer. Therefore milled material from the hole.

2014%5C06%5C14%5Cbikepics-2675667-800.jpg

bushmechanic · Jun 14, 2014

Thats a factory drilled piston squirter like in my 02 650

so you don't need to do anything maybe just drill it out to 1mm

or if you want to add a removable jet to make it easier to clean then it is the same as the std #100 pilot air jet in the kehien carb (1mm hole)

I cant remember the thread pitch or diam but it is very short

bushmechanic · Jun 17, 2014

stock pump bore model

boring 2mm deeper breaks into the intake and exit passages so I rotated the grooves CCW

important part is that there is 10.2 -10.5mm of the bottom surface without any holes, so the oil pump can trap oil and push it over to the pressure side

desired shapes after machining, i made the grooves 4mm deep instead of 2mm , bit like porting.

12 year old camera is being difficult, pics of real bits soon.

bushmechanic · Jul 19, 2014

did some surgery on the old camera, getting on a bit but its a good unit. ..

finished oil pump cavity

new pin hole 3mm higher up

bushmechanic · Jul 19, 2014

increase oil pressure 02 650

the oil pressure relief valve is between the cases

late model oil pressure relief spring top, 02 below

OEM spring in this engine is providing 450gm force

found one that gives me 2-3 lbs should be 30-35psi on the 8mm hole

i'll test the oil pressure before it all goes together properly since it requires case split to get to.

bushmechanic · Jul 23, 2014

testing the cracking pressure of the valve

put the oil pump cover on and used compressed air

OEM was 13-15 psi, i have it set at 35 psi, a bit over 3 lbs force from the spring is about right

bushmechanic · Sep 16, 2014

I tested the running oil pressure today it measures only 20psi with the 3lbs load on the spring

with the cracking pressure set at 35psi I was expecting running pressure to be around 30psi, must be more oil going into the engine than I thought.

I will try 4lbs next time.

main advantage of the wider pump is the pressure is 20 psi even at idle .. low rpms etc

Oil pump upgrade 15mm wide

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