What to do on a FE650 with 170 hours?

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J

JB3

Joined
Jan 23, 2010
Messages
32
Location
Southlake, TX
I am the third owner of a '04 FE650 with 170 hours and 4200 mi. The bike runs great, but I don't know how it was previously ridden. Previous owner said no internal engine work had been done as far as he knows. Oil changes and valve adjusts.

I am a seasoned rider (old) and don't push it too hard. I would prefer to not go into the engine, but I don't want to pay for a major disaster because I didn't. The engine is noisier than what I am used to, but I don't know if it is anything to worry about. I had a shop look at it before I purchased it and had it shipped and they said everything looked OK.

What do you think? Is there anything I should do or just ride on?

John
 
Keep an eye on the filters and magnet. You may take a look at the timing chain tensioner and see how much travel you have left. If all is good....ride on and enjoy.
 
Magnet and screen looked good when I changed the oil.

Do I need to pull the chain tensioner to check remaining travel? What should I be looking for as a wear limit?

Thanks.
 
I changed my timing chain at 120 hrs on my 05 fe 650. It had 4 clicks left but I was already in there so I changed it.
At 170 hrs If it hasn't already been done you might be ready.
I believe there are a total of 16 clicks to be used on the tensioner.

Pollo
 
Id pull the rocker pins and flip them over if showing any wear, you can leave the rocker cover on to do it though you could also take it off and check the cam follower bearings. when reinstalling the rocker pins set the axial play of the rocker arms at about 0.25mm, the little alloy endcap moves in/out and you lock it with the 6mm bolt in teh rocker cover.

cam chain ... mine sat on 3 clicks left for 70 hrs before I replaced it for fun.

valve springs sometimes fail toward 200 hrs Taffy has a dual valve spring kit.

check the crank endfloat id be happy with 0.4mm minimum if it has roller mains

if you're really pedantic you could also remove the crank nut on the drive side and the countershaft nut and reinstall with loctite, sometimes they come loose.

or just do what most people would; check the tappet clearences then go ride the pants off it :twisted:
 
Thanks for the responses.

I think I will check the tensioner and depending on where it is decide whether I want to go in further. If it is acceptable I will probably ride on. At least I know what to look for when I do tear the engine open.

What are the opinions of replacing the stock tensioner with a manual aftermarket tensioner?
 
JB3 said:
Thanks for the responses.

I think I will check the tensioner and depending on where it is decide whether I want to go in further. If it is acceptable I will probably ride on. At least I know what to look for when I do tear the engine open.

What are the opinions of replacing the stock tensioner with a manual aftermarket tensioner?
Click to expand...

None that I know of. Stock tensioner seems to work well.
 
Thanks Steve. Interesting write up. If the chain is a goner I should probably do what you did.

I have the leak from the cam tower, so I may need some advise on how you fixed that. I envisioned using my wife's granite countertop as a surfacing block, but it sounds like you used a dremel.
 
I had no problems with the rocker cover leaking on the 650. The Dremel was used to grind off the ends of the pins on the cam chain which is 'endless' stock. The replacement from Taffy uses a master link. My 501 has a master link, and still the stock cam chain at 33,000 kms. I like to put a dab of high temp silicone sealant on the clip as an added security measure. Not sure if it actually does anything of value, but makes me feel better.

I used 3 Bond White on the rocker cover with no problems. I know others have experimented with sealants, and Taffy will sell you his preferred one.

My 501 rocker cover did weep a bit on the front left, where they all seem to do it, if they do it. This was after replacing the valve followers and camshaft. I used 3 Bond Grey on that one at the time. It weeped, and being lazy, I tried a quick fix which was a smear of 3 Bond Grey on the outside after cleaning and priming the surface. Much to my amazement, it is still there many kms and hrs later and no leaks. The grey matches the sand cast alloy, and with a little dirt on it you would only see it now that you know its there.

You can lap the cover with some valve grinding paste on a piece of plate glass. Use plate glass, not float glass, because its flat. The missus will appreciate you not doing it directly on the kitchen bench :twisted:

Steve
 
Just reread your question :roll:
I also used the Dremel on the rocker cover, or head, or both, to remove some material to create enough clearance for the dual valve springs, as per Taffy's fitting instructions.

Steve
 
not sure why you call it 'magnesium' fella? the clutch cover on all Husabergs from 2004 is magnesium I believe but the actual left cover it sits on is aluminium.

If you keep swopping camchains then just keep going. there are no hours because the bike can have good and bad owners! keep an eye on the oil strainer/filter for metal and then rebuild immediately.

regards

Taffy
 
And they aren't actually magnesium, but an aluminium alloy with magnesium added. Magnesium on its own is flammable, burns quite intensely, which is why it was banned in motorsport in the 1960s.

Steve
 

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