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I went through the KTM parts bin (using advice supplied not only by my dealer but also the technical guru at KTM/Husaberg UK) and, after about three goes, was supplied the parts that I was assured will fit.
They didn't!
As you can see, the centre-line between the damper mounting holes does NOT line up with the steering head pivot point.
In consequence, although you can actually bolt the damper in place, the tower-pin does not properly fit into the lever-arm slot and actually locks up before you can move the bars to the straight-ahead position:
I have now ordered a mounting kit directly from Scotts Performance in California http://www.scottsperformance.com/.
Greg
They didn't!
As you can see, the centre-line between the damper mounting holes does NOT line up with the steering head pivot point.
In consequence, although you can actually bolt the damper in place, the tower-pin does not properly fit into the lever-arm slot and actually locks up before you can move the bars to the straight-ahead position:
I have now ordered a mounting kit directly from Scotts Performance in California http://www.scottsperformance.com/.
Greg
Just a question, is the black block that the bar mounts bolt to movable into the upper bolt hole or is it fixed with both bar bolt holes in the block, i used a 08 ktm above bar mount and coller with no problems at all, had to mod the coller with a little grining due to the frame being differnt, have just mod a 08 ktm low mount coller and getting a BRP underbar mount off the same bike, so will see how that go,s
Two cents worth............
I have the Scotts sub mount, and it gives you bar positions 3 and 4 to run. The big advantage of the sub mount is that you are able to change between these two positions whereas with the usual top mount you have to pick a position and then you are stuck with that position.
For me, being 6'2" tall the 1" rise that the sub mount provides makes the sub mount even more desirable. And for those of you who do not want the rise in bar height, there are two options available. You can go to 1" lower bar height which is the easiest, or Scott's makes a front fender mount set up. The disadvantage of the front fender mount for me is that you cannot reach the base valve while riding.
I had never really liked the top mount as the stabilizer looked pretty ominous staring up at you. And at one race, in the rocks, my hands came off the bars and I caught the stabilizer in the throat. I was lucky that I was able to turn my head just enough before impact and caught it in the left side of my throat and not directly on adams apple.
And you can't just wrap a bar pad over the stabilizer or it will over heat and become ineffective. Scott's used my bike as the test mule for the new model bikes, as well as for my 04 and 01. All of their parts have fit perfectly over the years.
I would also like to add, that with the 09 forward bikes, I highly recommend that you read the instruction book thoroughly, and try adjusting the high speed circuit of the Scotts stabilizer. The high speed circuit usually comes set at around 1.5 turns out. While this setting worked good on the pre 09 bikes, on the 09 forward bikes, with proper suspension set up, I have set my high speed circuit at around 1 & 3/4 to 1 & 7/8 turns out. I believe the book recommends that if you are going to adjust the high speed circuit, that you pick a test track or trail and start with 2 turns out and work your way in an 1/8th turn at a time. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER THAT THE MORE TURNS OUT ON THE LOW SPEED KNOB OR BASE VALVE YOU GO, THE MORE EFFECTIVE OR SENSITIVE THE HIGH SPEED CIRCUIT BECOMES. So, if you have the base valve set at 3 turns out, which is max, and the base circuit is now for all intents and purposes OFF, the high speed circuit becomes hyper sensitive.
While the instruction manual does not recommend finding a setting for the high speed valve on a center stand, some experimentation as explained above while on the stand will clearly demonstrate the differences in the settings. EG. If you set the base valve 3 turns out, then set the high speed screw at two turns out and snap the bars back and forth, then start adjusting the high speed valve in, in 1/8th increments you will clearly notice the sensitivity of these minor adjustments to the high speed circuit. Now, once you have found an experimental setting of the HS valve, set the base valve at 1 turn out and notice the difference in feel, then play around with different base valve settings, and you will see what I mean about the high speed setting becoming more sensitive with the base valve turned out more turns.
All of this experimentation will give you a better basis for field testing.
When I originally installed my Scotts stabilizer on my 09, I notice that I had lost the high maneuverablility that I had without it. But I had also redone my suspension at the same time. It took me a while to figure out what was going on, but, once I dialed back the HS circuit on the stabilizer, I got the flickability back that the stock set up had, but, still had the stabilizer to help with the big hits and no see ums.
So now I am back to where I have always run my stabilizer on the base valve. 1.5 turns out for the tight stuff, and 1 turn out on the really fast stuff.
Didn't mean to hi jack your thread here, but, thought it worth mentioning.
I have the Scotts sub mount, and it gives you bar positions 3 and 4 to run. The big advantage of the sub mount is that you are able to change between these two positions whereas with the usual top mount you have to pick a position and then you are stuck with that position.
For me, being 6'2" tall the 1" rise that the sub mount provides makes the sub mount even more desirable. And for those of you who do not want the rise in bar height, there are two options available. You can go to 1" lower bar height which is the easiest, or Scott's makes a front fender mount set up. The disadvantage of the front fender mount for me is that you cannot reach the base valve while riding.
I had never really liked the top mount as the stabilizer looked pretty ominous staring up at you. And at one race, in the rocks, my hands came off the bars and I caught the stabilizer in the throat. I was lucky that I was able to turn my head just enough before impact and caught it in the left side of my throat and not directly on adams apple.
And you can't just wrap a bar pad over the stabilizer or it will over heat and become ineffective. Scott's used my bike as the test mule for the new model bikes, as well as for my 04 and 01. All of their parts have fit perfectly over the years.
I would also like to add, that with the 09 forward bikes, I highly recommend that you read the instruction book thoroughly, and try adjusting the high speed circuit of the Scotts stabilizer. The high speed circuit usually comes set at around 1.5 turns out. While this setting worked good on the pre 09 bikes, on the 09 forward bikes, with proper suspension set up, I have set my high speed circuit at around 1 & 3/4 to 1 & 7/8 turns out. I believe the book recommends that if you are going to adjust the high speed circuit, that you pick a test track or trail and start with 2 turns out and work your way in an 1/8th turn at a time. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER THAT THE MORE TURNS OUT ON THE LOW SPEED KNOB OR BASE VALVE YOU GO, THE MORE EFFECTIVE OR SENSITIVE THE HIGH SPEED CIRCUIT BECOMES. So, if you have the base valve set at 3 turns out, which is max, and the base circuit is now for all intents and purposes OFF, the high speed circuit becomes hyper sensitive.
While the instruction manual does not recommend finding a setting for the high speed valve on a center stand, some experimentation as explained above while on the stand will clearly demonstrate the differences in the settings. EG. If you set the base valve 3 turns out, then set the high speed screw at two turns out and snap the bars back and forth, then start adjusting the high speed valve in, in 1/8th increments you will clearly notice the sensitivity of these minor adjustments to the high speed circuit. Now, once you have found an experimental setting of the HS valve, set the base valve at 1 turn out and notice the difference in feel, then play around with different base valve settings, and you will see what I mean about the high speed setting becoming more sensitive with the base valve turned out more turns.
All of this experimentation will give you a better basis for field testing.
When I originally installed my Scotts stabilizer on my 09, I notice that I had lost the high maneuverablility that I had without it. But I had also redone my suspension at the same time. It took me a while to figure out what was going on, but, once I dialed back the HS circuit on the stabilizer, I got the flickability back that the stock set up had, but, still had the stabilizer to help with the big hits and no see ums.
So now I am back to where I have always run my stabilizer on the base valve. 1.5 turns out for the tight stuff, and 1 turn out on the really fast stuff.
Didn't mean to hi jack your thread here, but, thought it worth mentioning.
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