Valve open/close data
- Thread starter Silverfx
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- data open or close valve
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yes, its a very good cam the stock one
actual 40 thou duration with lash at zero is 266 deg both lobes, lift measured 10.6mm
in open 19 in close 67.1 ex open 68.8 ex close 17.9 cls 114 and 115and a bit
obviously it is "supposed" to be symmetrical with open close figures identical for intake and exhaust which they will be if you aim for the cls being identical and around 114.6
the 08 cam is very very good high peak torque and high peak power but the delivery is lumpy, if you want smooth try a different cam ive tried many cams and with the 8/07 discontinued I would now use the thumperacing rfs stage 4
incomplete specs of other (mostly KTM) cams attached, 8/33 and 8/07 are now discontinued
thumperacing do a stage 4 RFS billet cam similar to the 8/07 with slightly different cls and also a bigger stage 5 profile
actual 40 thou duration with lash at zero is 266 deg both lobes, lift measured 10.6mm
in open 19 in close 67.1 ex open 68.8 ex close 17.9 cls 114 and 115and a bit
obviously it is "supposed" to be symmetrical with open close figures identical for intake and exhaust which they will be if you aim for the cls being identical and around 114.6
the 08 cam is very very good high peak torque and high peak power but the delivery is lumpy, if you want smooth try a different cam ive tried many cams and with the 8/07 discontinued I would now use the thumperacing rfs stage 4
incomplete specs of other (mostly KTM) cams attached, 8/33 and 8/07 are now discontinued
thumperacing do a stage 4 RFS billet cam similar to the 8/07 with slightly different cls and also a bigger stage 5 profile
Last edited:
- Joined
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- south east WA Australia
the gear is not particulary hard, a brand new chainsaw file will cut it.
if not, use a diamond coated burr in a die grinder or dremel
ideally it would be done in a mill with a rotary table or cnc but that is not really necessary
if you do it in increments yourself you can have the slot only just long enough to get the timing you need which then is less likely to slip than with a big long one
if not, use a diamond coated burr in a die grinder or dremel
ideally it would be done in a mill with a rotary table or cnc but that is not really necessary
if you do it in increments yourself you can have the slot only just long enough to get the timing you need which then is less likely to slip than with a big long one
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wicked!
put up some pics please
put up some pics please
- Joined
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you don't need to know the cam timing to get the timing right.
you need TDC and then the two cam lobes need to look symetrical like Mickey Mouses ears. it is that easy.
TDC is when the leading edge of the staple on the flywheel reaches a line between the centre of the crank and the bottom edge of the screw hole that is on the left (at 9 o clock)
regards
Taffy
you need TDC and then the two cam lobes need to look symetrical like Mickey Mouses ears. it is that easy.
TDC is when the leading edge of the staple on the flywheel reaches a line between the centre of the crank and the bottom edge of the screw hole that is on the left (at 9 o clock)
regards
Taffy
Lobe Center adjusing
Hello Taffy
The point is, setting the timing is easy, the way you describe (as the Shop Manual show) but to get it absolutely perfect (as the engineers designed it)
you have to measure using a degree wheel on the crank and micrometer-clocks on the valves. Without this, you have to choose the "closest" thoot on the cam gear. This is wery often pretty far off (I have seen Ducatis with lobe centers 9 degrees off, and I can promise that It made a difference!)
To get it perfect you need to know the valve open/close data (to figure out the lobe center) and an adjustable (or slotted) cam gear.
Please read this: http://www.ducati-upnorth.com/tech/xcamtiming.php
I have had the pleasure of reading Kevin Camerons articles and books since the late seventies.
Have fun
Silverfx
Hello Taffy
The point is, setting the timing is easy, the way you describe (as the Shop Manual show) but to get it absolutely perfect (as the engineers designed it)
you have to measure using a degree wheel on the crank and micrometer-clocks on the valves. Without this, you have to choose the "closest" thoot on the cam gear. This is wery often pretty far off (I have seen Ducatis with lobe centers 9 degrees off, and I can promise that It made a difference!)
To get it perfect you need to know the valve open/close data (to figure out the lobe center) and an adjustable (or slotted) cam gear.
Please read this: http://www.ducati-upnorth.com/tech/xcamtiming.php
I have had the pleasure of reading Kevin Camerons articles and books since the late seventies.
Have fun
Silverfx
- Joined
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- Ely, England
I've forgotten more than you know fella. carry on.............
correct valve timing importance is related to the timing of the cam and its state of tune.
the Husaberg cam is not in a high state of tune and therefore it isn't that important.
you'll also find that none3 of the figures add up.
Taffy
correct valve timing importance is related to the timing of the cam and its state of tune.
the Husaberg cam is not in a high state of tune and therefore it isn't that important.
you'll also find that none3 of the figures add up.
Taffy
Lobe center
Ohh...excuse me, if I insulted you in any way. I do not want to comment on your technical skills, Im only after facts on Husabergs. My CV from enginebuilding, both from motocross and roadracing are long and I also raced myself for 15 years in my younger days.
Thers no point in buying "go fast " stuff, If you do not know how to fit them and make everything work together. Checking lobecenters is very important as its sometimes way off.
This will surely make the engine underperform. Squish and lobecenter are 1. priority for me, and I often find it makes more Hp and pull sweeter. :cool
Ohh...excuse me, if I insulted you in any way. I do not want to comment on your technical skills, Im only after facts on Husabergs. My CV from enginebuilding, both from motocross and roadracing are long and I also raced myself for 15 years in my younger days.
Thers no point in buying "go fast " stuff, If you do not know how to fit them and make everything work together. Checking lobecenters is very important as its sometimes way off.
This will surely make the engine underperform. Squish and lobecenter are 1. priority for me, and I often find it makes more Hp and pull sweeter. :cool
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2001
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- Location
- Ely, England
as the valve timing is symertrical I suggest you find genuine TDC and then lay a ruler across the lobes. the ruler should be the same distance from the top of the head to cam cover surface in front and behind. the cam sprocket holes will elongate nicely.
regards
Taffy
regards
Taffy
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