Valve Clearances

Checked the valve clearances on my 2011 FE 390 that's done 4800km and 124 hours.
Came up with LI= 0.12, RI=0.16, LE=0.18 and RE=0.19. They haven't really changed much from the last time I checked them 2000km ago. Bike still starts and runs fine............
Would you blokes bother to change shims or leave it until next time ?

wish mine were like that

If I had the cover off and the correct shims to hand then I would re-shim but, personally, I wouldn't leave the bike in bits if it meant a wait to get some shims. I'd just get some ready for the next service. They're only slightly out of spec and slightly on the big side is better than slughtly on the tight side.

Hi Wiggy,

You should change them if you have the shims on hand (or can get them immediately), but I wouldn't miss riding if you have to wait for the shims order to come in.

It would be a good idea to pull each shim and measure it with a micrometer, and write the value down. Then order a few shims of each size in your bike, and a few of each that are 3 or 4 sizes above and below your stock shims. So basically, you'll be ready for numerous future valve adjustments.

Factory Specs
Intake Valves: 0.10-0.15mm
Exhaust Valves: 0.12-0.17mm

Note: Suggestions below assume you are using shims with 0.025mm increments.

LI= 0.12mm (Good. Leave as is. )
RI=0.16mm (Replace with shim two sizes bigger than the stock shim/0.16-0.05=0.11mm)
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LE=0.18mm (Replace with shim two sizes bigger than the stock shim/0.18-0.05=0.13mm)
RE=0.19mm (Replace with shim two sizes bigger than the stock shim/0.19-0.05=0.14mm)

The Harley Davidson V-rod motorcycle uses the same size shims as the 70 Degree Husabergs but they cost $2.40 instead of $5.50 per shim. They are also available in increments of 0.025mm (Husaberg increment are 0.05mm), so the Harley shims allow you to be more accurate when you are adjusting the valves. They're probably made by the same manufacturer because they have identical markings on them.

If you have only the Husaberg 0.05mm increment shims, you will have this problem: If your intake shim is at 0.10mm and you add a 0.05mm shim, you go to the opposite side of the factory specs (0.15mm). If you are at 0.15mm and have only a 0.05mm increment shim, you go to the low extreme (0.10mm). The Harley shims allow you to adjust your valves in between the extremes, which is preferable.

I ordered mine from Chicago Harley Davidson. It took several weeks to arrive so don't be in any hurry.

Attached, find two documents from this site:
--The Husaberg Valve Check procedure
--Valve Shims (Harley Davidson V-rod & Husaberg)

Note: It's a good idea to set your LEFT EXHAUST valve to as close to the minimum spec (0.12mm) as possible. It is responsible for the cam-auto-decompression function. If the engine makes a "click" sound and doesn't turn over when you are trying to start it, this means that the sum of the cam lobe and valve clearance are now out of spec and the engine will not bleed off some of the compression during start up. It will be very hard to start the engine when the bike is COLD.

Hope this helps,

Skip

Interesting, thanks.

Has anyone used the H-D shims on their Berg? Any feedback?

Yep. They are the same so it works. But I found it easier to order from 24mx.se as they have all small sizes and you get them home to your mailbox in no time.

Thanks for the info and pdf's. Very useful.

Having three bikes i oredered a box of them from Hotcams for $100. I stuff around with heads and cams so it was the ideal solution.

Technically you're out of spec and should rectify
Practically, if it were me I'd leave it
Given 0.05mm is the thickness of a human hair, and it is quite possible there is 0.01 error in the measuring process
You might find they've stabilised and are good for another 10,000 km...