valve adjustment

whosahberg · Dec 29, 2005

i am new to bergs, i have had mine for 12 months. some people say to adjust valves use the 1/8th turn out principle. common sense says use a feeler gauge,my book says clearance is 012. others say 010. is the 1/8 turn out a good way?. also i cant find any timing marks, am i blind, i can find tdc easy, i always have a box of pencils on standby :lol:

Husabergler · Dec 29, 2005

Hello Whosahberg ,

Welcome to the UHE .
I like 1/8 turn valve adjustment method. Not much room for a
screw driver a wrench and a feeler guage. Plus it makes me more
enthusiastic about doing it . Also,have never had any problems with
this method .

bigbob · Dec 29, 2005

whosahberg said:
i am new to bergs, i have had mine for 12 months. some people say to adjust valves use the 1/8th turn out principle. common sense says use a feeler gauge,my book says clearance is 012. others say 010. is the 1/8 turn out a good way?. also i cant find any timing marks, am i blind, i can find tdc easy, i always have a box of pencils on standby :lol:

gap is 0.0047" 1/6= 0.005 1/8 turn = 0.004" or there abouts.

it's the concept that matters not the means or methods....that said be sure to remove the metal eraser tip before inserting any of your wooden pencils in the cylinder.

BOSS · Dec 29, 2005

For all you fellas that like to use the e-button if you keep a

snug .10mm the starter work's better. A little extra compression

is bled off so the little tourque limiter & sprague bearing won't

be so stressed out! like i'v been after reading some of these posts.

Stay on the gas guy's!!!!

BrianSM · Dec 29, 2005

http://www.husaberg.org/modules.php?nam ... pic&t=2947

whosahberg · Dec 30, 2005

thanks for the above info , all valuable .

rancheroracer · Dec 30, 2005

I use the "DJH" method posted on KTM talk, don't have to find TDC & I think it's a lot easier.
Intake valves; Transmission in top gear, rear wheel off the ground, if you
have a helper one can watch the valves and hold the manual compression
release while the other rotates the engine with the rear wheel. Rotate the
engine gently with the wheel to locate the point where the exhaust valve
starts to open then rotate very gently until the exhaust valves are 1/2 way
open! Minor frustration, we are now fighting against the valve spring which
wants to roll the engine back, so to stop it you either have to have a
helper hold the rear brake or, as this gets pretty boring so;
Option 1; Take a tie down, hook one end to the brake pedal, wrap in under the bike and up the left side to something like the top of the frame behind the engine. Now just tighten the strap so the brake can keep the engine from rolling back.
Option 2; Put a bar thru the spoke of the rear wheel adjacent to the swing
arm to stop the wheel.
At this point the Intakes are on Center of the Heel of the Cam. Proceed to
adjust.

Exhaust valves; As above, except, locate the point where the intake valves have opened and are 1/2 way closed (engine rotating forward). As the intake is closing the engine will want roll forward PAST the way point and the lash in the transmission and chain will make it so you can not stop the engine, so let it go just past, then roll the wheel backwards and secure it with the brake or bar again. Now proceed to adjust the Exhausts.

ALWAYS! ALL 4 STROKE ENGINES: With the engine rotating its correct direction the exhaust is adjusted when the intake is closing and the intake is adjusted when the exhaust is opening!

logjump · Dec 30, 2005

rancheroracer said:
I use the "DJH" method posted on KTM talk, don't have to find TDC & I think it's a lot easier.

HOLY CRAP How can you possibly call that easier? Only from our friends at KTf---ingM talk.:bash:

I'm sure it works but JEEEEEZ. "get a friend to turn the wheel, put a stick in the spokes, tie down the brake lever". Sorry Ranch, nothing personal but that method sounds like a pain in the ***.

Log

rancheroracer · Dec 30, 2005

I do it myself, bike on stand, in 6th gear, roll wheel, stick screwdriver thru wheel to hold, simple! Sounds involved but easier for me, I've done it on last two ktms & this 'Berg is easier than the ktms.

whosahberg · Dec 30, 2005

if it works for you its all good, i prefer to use a suitable socket and wrench on the flywheel, but you have to hold it firmly.as tdc comes up.

rancheroracer · Dec 30, 2005

I agree with you, whatever works. Either way is fine, whatever one is comfortable with. I prefer not pulling covers off if I don't have to.

bigbob · Dec 31, 2005

reading, reading .......... TDC who cares about TDC with this thing call valve opening overlap.....at TDC on the exhaust stroke we have both exhaust valves and intake valves open for a moment. and TDC on the compression stroke up/ power stroke down same is true for an instant, right?

don't we want to check valves when they are fully closed? with no cam lobe force pushing on the rocker arm pushing down on the valves? we want the valve at rest and in it's full closed position with the full force of the spring holding it closed to check the clearnaces? if so WTF has that got to do with TDC? get the piston starting the exhaust stroke up or be mid way coming up on the exhaust stroke and the intake valve is closed.

get the piston mid way coming up on the compression stroke and both valves are closed.

WTF? no now I read something in a KTM guide about 1/2 closed/ 1/2 open WTF.

do we want to check the valve lash clearance with the valve at rest fully closed or not? that is the question.

I got my very nice Berg 2006 owners manual. but not a peep about how the factory wanst us to cheack valave clearances.........probably because its a top secret......or it's hard to explain its embarrassing for them. HUSABERG need's a damn mark.

Bobzilla · Dec 31, 2005

Bob
You are exactly right in that we want no force on the valve except for the spring so we can get a " clearance". It doesnt really matter where you do it in the stroke as long as you remember that we have a auto de comp bump and we want to make sure we are not adjusting the valve to have the clearance at that point in time. It is just easy to put the piston at TDC on the power stroke and then the bump and both valves respective cam lobes are in the lowest lift position. Once you do it the first time and find the true tdc by looking at the PENCIL

and at the rockers actually moving and seeing where both sets of valves are fully closed you just make a mark on the flywheel and from then on its a snap. In fact when I check mine I put it on tdc and just grab the rocker and see if it will wiggle a little bit , if it does I stop and dont do anything except button it back up. The valves get tight by beating themselves into the head and I have never found them to loosen up.

whosahberg · Dec 31, 2005

hey big bob, i no expert but i would say stone cold . also lets not forget about the auto decomp and its operation .....interesting subject for non experts

dsducati · Jan 1, 2006

Seems as the valve adjustment procedure had gotten into discussions of valve timing itself. If you fellows really want a great explanation in depth of valve timing and a bunch more (tuning effects of overlap, intake duration, intake port length, exhaust etc etc) buy Kevin Camerons Sportbike Performance Tuning Guide. His writing is easy to follow, interesting and you will actually enjoy reading it.
Dan

valve adjustment

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