Valve adjustment that has become a little more-need advice

Well, as some of might remember, I bought a 1999 Husaberg FE400 a couple of weeks ago. I've been having a good time on it, but decided I need to give it a fairly good look over now that I've been getting used to it and moving my fat *** a little faster on it.

Anyway, the previous guy I bought it from said he hadn't done a valve adjustment, and I noticed the right side exhaust port(decompression bits side) was spitting some soot/carbon at the joining section of the pipes...figuring it was tight, and not wanting to burn up a valve, I decided to go ahead and do the valve adjustment.

I watched the videos, read the book, etc...and I'm not exactly a stranger to such things...(Desmo valvetrain, japs bikes(shims), cars, etc.)

So here's the deal:

I get in there, and first, it's a real ***** to get a .004" feeler gauge in there, so I bent one 90 degrees on end, and notice I can't get it to slide cleanly in the gap, even having after unseated the adjusting screw all the way up...

Maybe it's just me, I can kind of get the feel gauge half way in, but not really what I'm used to...almost like it's pinched on the back side of both valves(towards the plug...right now I'm just working on the exhaust valves)...

Having experimented a bit, If I use the gauge via feel it will slide in a bit of a herky jerky mannner, and I can use the adjusting screws to eventually "pin" the feeler gauge in place....so I guess I could use the 1/8 turn out method to get me in the ballpark....BUT I'M STILL CONCERNED ABOUT MY INABILITY TO PASS THE GAUGE FREELY THROUGH THE ENTIRE GAP. (I lost my angled feeler gauges I used on my desmo, some on order again....)

Maybe it's much ado about nothing,someone with some Husaberg experience in such matters mind telling me?
(Remeber, the bike was running OK...not sure really how much power it should have as I'm new to the dirtbike/Husa thing)


SECONDLY, this auto-decompression stuff....I really like the idea, and I have not had problems starting the bike(although maybe the exhaust port on the sooty side wasn't sealing-making it easier), but I noticed a couple of things that I NEED AN EXPERIENCED OPINION ON.

first, the book says to adjust the cable with 1-2mm slack. I noticed right away that my bike didn't have anywhere close to that...in fact, it looks like there was no slack...and in my infinite wisdom I(irony) I "adjusted" the cable to the specs in book without looking closer or recording anything..(ok, I'm stupid sometimes).

What I noticed however, is that the decompression cam(tiny shaft on top of the rocker arm) is no where near depressing the rocker, and in fact even with a good "kick" doesn't appear to travel enough to do so when the valve is closed(I know I may have to cut/trim cables, etc.)....that can't be right....this is my first Husa, and first experience with this type of decomp....

QUESTION-

How much rotation(degrees or whatever) from the STOP should the decompression shaft/cam(whatever) have before it starts to activate the exhuast rockers? The 1-2mm of "slack" on the cable doesn't mean jack in my opinion if the decomp shaft/cam is worn IMHO...(or something else?)

The owners manual and video don't really cover this, nor the "shop" manual I got via PDJ/JPEG's.....

Can anyone offer advice?

Thanks for your help. (I'm starting to wish I just rode the piss out of it until it imploded....I like riding more than wreching... )

Nick

Re: Valve adjustment that has become a little more-need advi

sorry did a speed read only, on my way to work. only have tools advice

Motion Pro has a specially designed feeler gauge, 0.004 on one end and 0.005 on the other. It's small compact and has a hard thick center strip, makes it easy to get it in place. Ask your local well stocked bike shop about that gage and there is a motion pro tappet adjust kit that has the right size tiny screw drivers and wrenchs for the job.

most guys will tell you the I/6 turn business, but it's nice to gap it while you do that too, if ya got the right tools , makes you feel like you know what you're doing.

Re: Valve adjustment that has become a little more-need advi

I got the motion pro stuff on order the other night....but I suspect that I may be having some other issues, also, my understanding is that the 1/6 out method is for newer bergs, the 1/8 out is for older(thread difference?)...thanks for the advice though...everyone please keep it coming..

Re: Valve adjustment that has become a little more-need advi

Hey Nick,
Your right, using straight feeler guages is a pain. Unless I am trying to diagnose a problem (do I have a tight valve, and which one), I try not to use them. If you don't have the Porshe or Motion Pro gauges it can get really frustrating. I think you will find the 1/8th turn method fine for routine maintenance.
As far as the decompressor goes, I don't know that you can really "see" it work. Here are some picts that explain it really well.

Gallery link

As far as the slack in the cable goes. You are just trying to make sure that the decompressor is completely disengaged when not in use.

I'm no expert, but this is just what I have found.

Motion Pro also makes a valve adjust set that is really slick.
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/too ... _tool_set/

Re: Valve adjustment that has become a little more-need advi

Mmmmm....thanks for the pictures...good stuff.

I need to be careful with my terminology...because what I referred to as "auto" decompression, is really "manual" decompression according to the pictures....but of course I have no manual pull, it is only connected via a lever setup tied to the kickstart mechanism....


Unfortunately, I still can't see how much rotation the decomp shaft above th rocker arm should have before actuating the rocker arm....I'm concerned that the "slack" of 1-2mm that is called for in the cable wasn't there because the shaft itself was worn...or other bad things(I can see a small wear divot inthe top of my rocker arm....)

Nick

Re: Valve adjustment that has become a little more-need advi

If it starts well, what are you worried about?? If it starts and runs well, sounds good,and there is not excessive metal bits in the oil or filter......dont worry. It's if and when the other symptoms occur that you can start to worry :wink:

Re: Valve adjustment that has become a little more-need advi

True, I guess I'm being anal.

I'm tempted to remove the whole Decompression business anyway, since I can start the damn thing on two kicks most of the time anyway-I didn't really know if it was working or not though...and was hoping to save myself some time(and not have to strip it down again to "adjust" it properly...at times I felt like I was gonna rip the kickstart right off the bike...I wasn't being gentle, but I don't want to piss around in starting it...


I''ll remove it and see how it goes after getting the valves straight...
thanks for the comment.

Re: Valve adjustment that has become a little more-need advi

as it was told to me

1/8th turn = 0.004

1/6th turn =0.005 actually like 0.048?

Re: Valve adjustment that has become a little more-need advi

you know what? i'm starting to like the 1/6th turn more and more.

firstly, because my tappets only ever seem to tighten so why not give them some early slack. right?
but secondly because i can always count the numbers on a clockface but can't work out an 1/8th of a turn.

so it's tighten lightly and back two numbers on the old analogue clock...

imaginative aren't i! :twisted: :twisted:

Taffy

Re: Valve adjustment that has become a little more-need advi

Ok, I'm convinced, 1/6 it is.(one adjusting nut edge to the next... )

Any clearance is better than none... lol

Re: Valve adjustment that has become a little more-need advi

As far as the "slack" in the decomp. cable, the way its measured is: with the bike running pull in the decomp. lever until you feel it begin to "pulse". As long as there is some travel before that pulse, you're good to go.

There won't be any "free" travel like in a clutch cable. It's a little different, but easy enough when you realize how to measure for it. Hope that helps.

Re: Valve adjustment that has become a little more-need advi

No pull lever....only connected to kick-start thingy, so I have no easy way to feel for "pulsing"...but I guess I could pull it with pliers while it's running...and note the position

Re: Valve adjustment that has become a little more-need advi

Wow! That's a loaded question!!

Just to make sure we are on the same page before we go any further. You do have the motor on TDC of the compression stroke, correct?

I have question: Do your valve lash adjusters have a swivel foot on the end, or are they just a straight pin?? On the earlier models they didn't have what some call an elephants foot or swivel thingie on the end of the adjuster screw where it meets the top of the valve stem. And replacement adjusters will have the elephants foot.

BE SURE THAT YOU HAVE AMPLE PLAY IN THE MANUAL DECOMPRESSOR ARM BEFORE YOU BEGIN. CHECK FOR AMPLE FREE PLAY ON MANUAL DECOMPRESSOR ARM ON TDC OF THE COMPRESSION STROKE.

What concerns me is that you are having trouble getting the feeler gauge inserted even with the adjusters backed off, and are unable to get your feeler guage to slide between the end of the adjuster and the top of the valve stem in a uniform fashion. And you have indicated there was no free play in the manual decompressor arm. If neccessary loosen the cable adjuster at the manual lever on the bars, as well as both adjusters at the arm itself. And what especially concerns me is that previous owner idicated that he did not ever adjust the valves.

I would definitely skip on down to the bike shop and get a couple of the .004"/.005" feeler gauges that kind of look like a layed over Z. They are pre bent and this gauge will make it much easier for you.

The next thing I would check before you begin your valve adjustment, is the axial play on the rocker arms themselves. The spec is 0.05 to 0.10mm. Unfortunately there is not much info in the workshop manuals on how to adjust this but I will give you my best on a procedure. So here goes....

Get the motor at TDC on compression. Then loosen all the valve adjustment screws so that there is more than enough lash. Then loosen the M6x55 bolts as illustrated on page E7 of the 2005 repair manual. Then slip the feeler gauge in between the rocker box, and the end of the rocker arm. Gently tap with a plastic hammer, the small screw in the end of the rocker arm shaft, and then snug up the M6x55 bolt that is associated with the shaft you are working on. And then double check your measurment. This takes a bit of trial and error to get the measurement right. I'd start off with the .05mm (.002" approx), and then if it's just a bit loose, but not more than .10mm (.004") you're all set. Torque bolt to reccomended spec. Repeat for the other rocker arm shaft. You'll only have to do this once, except if pull the rocker box for some reason, then you'll have to do it again.

Now you can start with the valve adjustment. Since you stated that you have experience with valve adjusting I won't go into that. Other than to be sure you slide the feeler gauge parallel with the rocker arm shafts when checking the lash. Or in other words side to side, not front to back. And of course, that the motor is at TDC on the compression stroke.

Once you have set the valve lashes to .004", you can set the manual decompressor located on the right hand side of the motor. I'm assuming that your bike has the kick start decompressor, so set that one first to 2mm of play, then set the handlebar mounted one. There are instructions on this on page 20 of the 1999 owners manual.

I had to ref the 2005 manual for the M6x55 rocker box bolts as the picture in the 99 manual is very dary and blurry.

Hope this helps,

PS Try the three bond 1211 for sealing up your header flanges.

Re: Valve adjustment that has become a little more-need advi

Looks like straight pins, but I can't see well enough to be sure, and I haven't removed the rocker cover....
(and don't really want to unless necessary...)

I am just getting ready to screw with it again tonight and see if it's got the swivels on it or straight pins....

I'm not altogether sure how the axial play would affect my ability to check the gap....but I'll check it anyway.

Just to restate, I have no decomp lever, and the setup that's tied to the kickstarter.

Re: Valve adjustment that has become a little more-need advi

The Axial play is just something to get set before you begin. It doesn't affect the ability of whether or not you can set the lash. It's just that you don't want the rocker arms floating about. Especially with the older style adjusters, it's pretty important to not have excessive axial play, as in extreme cases the adjuster can be riding on the edge of the valve stem and peen it over, or even break off a piece.

I missed that you only have the kicker decompressor. Either way, be sure there is plenty of play in that sucker before you attempt an adjustment. Then, after the vlave adjustment, before you even put the valve covers on, adjust it.

Once you get this routine down, you can adjust your valves in 30 minutes or less.