Titanium valves

Dr_C · Jun 21, 2004

The yellow coating on the valves I bought from Kibblewhite is supposed to withstand wear better than the base material. As they were "blanks" the coating on the shaft end is long gone. I just couldn't make place for lash caps, so they wore down rapidly

. Does anyone out there know of some way of hardfacing the end of the Ti-valve stem?

/Dr_C

Taffy · Jun 21, 2004

what are you doing to that baby doctor C?

poor thing.

dale will help you but i can make 2 + 2 = 4 and say give it another coat of that yellow stuff. (my conrods have it!)

Taffy

Dr_C · Jun 21, 2004

Taffy said:
what are you doing to that baby doctor C?

poor thing.

dale will help you but i can make 2 + 2 = 4 and say give it another coat of that yellow stuff. (my conrods have it!)

Taffy

Well Taffy, in brief: relocated valve guides, 40mm intake/34mm exhaust, billet rockers, "SixDays-head", "62" cam, 50mm carb and meg style exhaust.

I was hoping for a suitable welding material...

/Dr_C
I am a nice guy, really :wink:

Cheesy · Jun 21, 2004

The yellow surface is most likely titanium nitride. There are three ways of creating this surface layer. It is possible to plasma nitride titanium which is similar to nitriding steels etc in that nitrogen gas diffuses into the surface. The other two methods are the application of a thin film of TiN by either a PVD (physical vapour deposition) or a CVD (chemical vapour deposition) process. The CVD process will allow a thicker film to be formed but the substrate temperature during the process is higher than the PVD or nitriding process approx 1000 degrees C compared to 500.
Also if you are building a higher performance motor it might be worth looking at having a chromium nitride (not chrome plated but a PVD coating) coating applied to the piston rings, it will tend to reduce ring wear and significantly reduce the friction of the ring pack

LINEAWEAVER · Jun 21, 2004

Hi DR_C,
Regarding Husaberg engines and Titanium valves:
I reccommend a 5.5 mm lash cap and ball end tappet screw as nothing else to date has proven reliable.

Hope this helps.

Kind Regards,
Dale

Ps
As you now know Titanium makes for a very poor bearing surface.

Dr_C · Jun 22, 2004

I might just end up with steel exhaust valves with thinner stems. The 34mm valves are not that heavy. As for the 40mm inlet valves, the wear has not been so dramatic. Lower temperature? They might last the whole season. I will however investigate where to get someone coating the valves with TiN. I have put some stellite hardfacing on steel valves, in the past, so I was hoping that there would be a similar solution available for Ti. I had bought lash caps, but I just simply couldnÃ‚Â´t find enough space between valve and rocker arm to make them fit.

Thanks for the input!

/Dr_C

Taffy · Jun 22, 2004

if you really get stuck there are a few here in the UK. i had my rods done 14 years ago but i can give you a contact if you struggle i should think.

Taffy

LINEAWEAVER · Jun 22, 2004

Dr_C said:
I had bought lash caps, but I just simply couldnÃ‚Â´t find enough space between valve and rocker arm to make them fit.
/Dr_C

Hi Dr_C,
Simply reduce the overall valve lengths, lower the the split lock keeper grooves and deepen the spring seat pockets. It is also advantageous to eliminate the swivel foot tappet screws as they in themselves are cumbersome and quite heavy.

Hope this helps.
Dale

Dr_C · Jun 22, 2004

LINEAWEAVER said:
Simply reduce the overall valve lengths, lower the the split lock keeper grooves and deepen the spring seat pockets. It is also advantageous to eliminate the swivel foot tappet screws as they in themselves are cumbersome and quite heavy.

Hope this helps.
Dale

Hi Dale!
I didn't dare to shorten the springs, but I lowered the spring pockets 1mm. I thought of lowering the keeper grooves and making new deeper retainers. With the relocated valves I have about 12mm max lift with the "62" cam, so perhaps the valve guides also needs shortening...
"Eliminating" the tappet screws makes me curious. How to?

/Dr_C

LINEAWEAVER · Jun 22, 2004

.480" (12mm) valve lift and 40mm Intake Valves!
Are you planning a 1L single and / or buzzing the engine to 12K rpm?

Early Husaberg and / or Honda CX 500 tappet screws work well with tool steel lash caps.

Kind Regards,
Dale

Dr_C · Jun 22, 2004

LINEAWEAVER said:
.480" (12mm) valve lift and 40mm Intake Valves!
Are you planning a 1L single and / or buzzing the engine to 12K rpm?

Early Husaberg and / or Honda CX 500 tappet screws work well with tool steel lash caps.

Kind Regards,
Dale

Well, I am perhaps pushing things unecessary far (beyond optimum), but experimenting is fun. Valve sizes, max lift, bore and stroke are nearly copied from the most competitive Rotax engines in the Supermono series. But I have to admit, my cylinder head with stock valve sizes run almost as good with the 50mm Lectron carb and the same intake length.

Of course! I could loose the swivel feet if I use lash caps. That would perhaps fit. Good idea, Dale!

/Dr_C

Titanium valves

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