Tickover, how long before boil?

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Joined
Sep 25, 2013
Messages
369
Location
canolbarth cymru
How long would a standard 650 tickover before boiling and at what temperature? I know ambient temperature would make a big difference but roughly? Would fitting a fan extend the time significantly? I know it's a bit like how long is a piece of string but just a rough idea.:)
Just trying a few things:)

:spin:
 
I'm guessing fully warmed up engine, waiting on the grid, with only H20 allowed for cooling, on a welsh hot summer day with the bike jetted a little lean?

You should be fine for 2-3 minutes, but I bet it would help if you periodically pulled the choke, and possibly turn the throttle a bit for better oil flow.

You tried a little less water? Like flush or just above the fins when cold.
 
Cheers Idle, when I built the bike the engine had a high flow water pump cover but was fitted with the standard impeller, I was told this would work fine and would flow more water than standard. Had trouble with boiling over while waiting to go out on track, no kick or electric start, absolute beast to bump start. The bike runs around 75-85°c on track. Talking to a customer who services and builds track car suspension he said without doubt the extra space behind the oversized cover was causing cavitation.
I fitted a standard cover today, a weak mixture of Water Wetter and bled the air out. The radiator cap is under the tank, the radiator lower than the head bleed screw so I lay the bike over to shift the air.
A sweltering 16°c here in Wales today, I fired her up and warmed the motor up to 70°c, turned the computer fans on and just let her tickover. 15 minutes to get to 114°c when it started to spit a drop out. 45 pilot jet and a 1.6 bar radiator cap. That's a bit hot I know but I needed to try it! The temperature sensor is inline just between pump and radiator.
 
I have noted the "boil" on my FE570 because I have a clear length of fuel line for a gas cap vent tube. It sure looks like it's boiling, doesn't it? But how different would it look if the fuel was warm enough for gasoline's useful vapor pressure to hit the relative cool of the vent tube, go back to a liquid state, and for gas vapor to percolate through it? I have serious reservations that the gasoline in the tank has reached the boiling point.

That said, I have wrapped the exhaust where it passes close to the tank and I've applied reflective material to the underside of the tank. That seems to have cured the vapor lock problem, which in retrospect might have been completely attributable to the failure prone factory fuel pump (since replaced).
 

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