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- Joined
- Nov 20, 2001
- Messages
- 17,028
- Location
- Ely, England
RE: Re: RE: TDC Indicator
ok tuts
i've heard of people breaking the middle out of a plug and welding a blob of steel in where the porcelain and the earth was. you need about 15mm proud of the end of the plug and a round end a bit like your old camchain tensioner nose was. this should fit in your plug hole nicely and the engine should turn back and forth and hit this 'knob'. you will need a 17mm on a T-bar so that you can slow and control the crank. ratchets are OUT.
next get a 360 degree protractor. don't care how, don't care where. download it to your screen and then print it off. it needs to be exactly the size of your flywheel on it's OD. i put it under the photocopier here and shrank it by one percent each time till it was spot on. i would cut it out and then cut the inside out so you have a ring of about 1" wide and can see the crank nut. glue it to some corrogated card (as an example) and then sellotape around the back and the face so that no matter how much crap is on your tools and hands - it'll always stay clean!
next you need an indicator of which degree you are at PRECISELY! it's easy. get a M6 bolt and three nuts and a washer. cut a "teardrop" shaped piece of steel and drill the centre of the main body with an M6 drill. the sharp point of the teardrop will now point down at the flywheel/protractor. put the bits on the M6 bolt in the following order:
nut
teardrop shape
nut
nut
washer
screw the bolt into the case and pinch up with the nearest nut using the washer as the usual intermediary. then use the two other nuts each side of the 'teardrop' to get it as close to the flywheel as you can and then tighten with the point facing the crankshaft centre.
with the piston down from TDC (get the timing mark away from anywhere above the 9 to 3 o' clock axis) fit the 'dead stop' tool and tighten. blue tac the protractor to the crank with the "zero/360" degree mark on the old flywheel mark as a guide.
the engine will stop at say 32 BTDC one way and then on turning back will stop at 24 ATDC the other. push/lift and re-lay the protractor so that the 28d mark is now in line and then spin the crank back. use both hands so as to control the push and then pull to stop the crank. you should find that you now have the engine locking at 28d both before and after TDC.
zero/360 is now truly your TDC.
mark the crank NOW with a sharp thin scriber.
remove the dead stop, the pointer, the protractor.
you should b3e able to see where the factory line is and then yours.
could prove interesting!
regards
Taffy
ok tuts
i've heard of people breaking the middle out of a plug and welding a blob of steel in where the porcelain and the earth was. you need about 15mm proud of the end of the plug and a round end a bit like your old camchain tensioner nose was. this should fit in your plug hole nicely and the engine should turn back and forth and hit this 'knob'. you will need a 17mm on a T-bar so that you can slow and control the crank. ratchets are OUT.
next get a 360 degree protractor. don't care how, don't care where. download it to your screen and then print it off. it needs to be exactly the size of your flywheel on it's OD. i put it under the photocopier here and shrank it by one percent each time till it was spot on. i would cut it out and then cut the inside out so you have a ring of about 1" wide and can see the crank nut. glue it to some corrogated card (as an example) and then sellotape around the back and the face so that no matter how much crap is on your tools and hands - it'll always stay clean!
next you need an indicator of which degree you are at PRECISELY! it's easy. get a M6 bolt and three nuts and a washer. cut a "teardrop" shaped piece of steel and drill the centre of the main body with an M6 drill. the sharp point of the teardrop will now point down at the flywheel/protractor. put the bits on the M6 bolt in the following order:
nut
teardrop shape
nut
nut
washer
screw the bolt into the case and pinch up with the nearest nut using the washer as the usual intermediary. then use the two other nuts each side of the 'teardrop' to get it as close to the flywheel as you can and then tighten with the point facing the crankshaft centre.
with the piston down from TDC (get the timing mark away from anywhere above the 9 to 3 o' clock axis) fit the 'dead stop' tool and tighten. blue tac the protractor to the crank with the "zero/360" degree mark on the old flywheel mark as a guide.
the engine will stop at say 32 BTDC one way and then on turning back will stop at 24 ATDC the other. push/lift and re-lay the protractor so that the 28d mark is now in line and then spin the crank back. use both hands so as to control the push and then pull to stop the crank. you should find that you now have the engine locking at 28d both before and after TDC.
zero/360 is now truly your TDC.
mark the crank NOW with a sharp thin scriber.
remove the dead stop, the pointer, the protractor.
you should b3e able to see where the factory line is and then yours.
could prove interesting!
regards
Taffy
I got mine from here: http://www.centraltools.com/index.html
It was a few years ago and at the time it was one of the least expensive ones, but still a quality tool.
It was a few years ago and at the time it was one of the least expensive ones, but still a quality tool.
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2004
- Messages
- 1,340
- Location
- nova scotia
You will need quite a long adapter and there is not alot of room for the dial guage.Will work best with rhe engine on the bench.I think the purchase of a flywheel puller and removal of the flywheel to easily mount the degree wheel and use of the positive stop method is the way......always precise to the degree.Each to his own,its all good.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2001
- Messages
- 17,028
- Location
- Ely, England
agree with nsman regards the dead stop method is the right way to get tdc. disabree over the flywheel - get the right protractor. nsman never had a cardboard one and a photocopier!
if it can wait 5 weeks tuts i can bring the stuff out and we can check if we have time?
regards
Taffy
if it can wait 5 weeks tuts i can bring the stuff out and we can check if we have time?
regards
Taffy
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2002
- Messages
- 865
- Location
- las vegas nv
Taffy said:
taffy,
i appreciate the offer, but i cant wait.
i need to get my bike dialed in for moab.
plus you and i will not have any extra time.
between our 'search and rescue' missions during the day
and putting the poor brews out of their misery during
evening, we will be swamped
tuts
:devil:
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