Stock spring rates 2011 FE390

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M

mxs

Joined
May 20, 2016
Messages
33
Location
ON, Canada
Can someone confirm for me what is exactly the stock rear spring rate and type? I am finding a bit conflicting or inconclusive info.

I bought my bike with racetech P20 in the back. As I found out that is progressive spring.

Some sites sell progressive or straight rate springs (Slaven Racing actually sells both ...) others like Racetech only progressive ones.

The bike is over sprung for my riding weight, so I think me grabbing a stock set will put me in the right ballpark. Do I think correctly that the stock rear spring is a straight rate spring, by the single number given in the manual?
What's the consensus, if there's one, straight or progressive is the way to go?

Thanks
 
i bought my 570 used but with what i take to be the OEM yellow spring on it. 72-250 methinks

they are under damped in the mid-stroke so you need a strong spring. I think at 15 stones I went for an 88

regards

Taffy
 
I am 140 lbs without gear, 155ish with gear ... With P20 and almost zero pre-load I am nowhere near the minimum riding sag. The feels stiff most of the time, so I think I really need most likely the stock springs.

Any opinion on the straight vs. progressive shock spring? Are the progressive springs supposed to help with bottoming resistance?
 
All the Husaberg Spring I have light to heavy 4 of them are all progressive.
 
It's getting more confusing for me .... yes from theory point of view all springs are progressive because they require progressively more and more weight to compress them in the same distance.

But are you saying that all stock rear springs on Husaberg bikes are progressively wound and thus their action is progressive, rather than linear (above).

Also why is my manual state only one number like 69N/mm rather than a range like Racetech does for their P20. To me that's a true progressive spring.
 
mxs said:
It's getting more confusing for me .... yes from theory point of view all springs are progressive because they require progressively more and more weight to compress them in the same distance.
Click to expand...

FWIW it is not so :) I thought so too. (EDIT: sorry!, on posting I see that I misunderstood your words. They do take progressively more weight :) ... More of the same unit of weight compresses the spring as much as the last unit of weight :) I'll leave the rest of the post here anyway :) ) Springs with identical windings have the same spring rate throughout (except at the VERY end of compression!, out of bounds really). Notice that for linear springs the spring rate is given in kg per mm, as in how many kg's worth of pressure it takes to compress the spring 1 mm :) - And that there's no measure of compression given.

Also cutting a spring makes it stiffer :) I thought the inverse :)

Here's a spanner in the works too:
Spring Rate Selection

Sag isn't everything, can do A LOT in the valving, speed and terrain are the main things to tune the 'spension for.

Edit: That's a lot of smileys! :) I'll blame the coffee! :)
 
Thanks guys, it makes sense now.

This is one reason, I hate buying used, because the guy I bought the bike from has no idea what the guy before him did with the suspension. So I can only assume that most people on budget just buy correct spring and don't spend the money on re-valving. If he did, the linear spring I get might not work the best. But I have no choice because the current setup is way too stiff for my weight.
 

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