Starter torque limiting gear/clutch/pain in the arse.

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Joined
Dec 16, 2008
Messages
47
Location
Grand Junction, CO,
After reading the owners documents I discovered that my bike has an issued with the aforementioned part. I took the bike apart and tested the slippage. With torque wrench set on 4nm, I tested the disk for slippage and it does slip very easy. What do you all recommend for a shim. I do not have access to a lathe to make one. A new "torque limiter" costs $167 (ouch). I looked at the hardware store for a thin washer but came up with nothing.

Thanks for the help.

Thomas
 
Thanks. I see that they have the solution with a shim, but would like to know what they used for a shim? Did they machine a washer or something else? Thanks for the help.

Regards,

Thomas
 
you can buy shim material,from a good autoshop or even easier make one out of coke can just find some different thickness items you might need verniors though to measure them
 
RedRockRider said:
Thanks. I see that they have the solution with a shim, but would like to know what they used for a shim? Did they machine a washer or something else? Thanks for the help.

Regards,

Thomas

Hi Thomas,

I discovered this simple fix by just adding a shim and then rechecking the torque in which the limiter would break away, I ended up with 15 thou. I used shimming washers from when I reconditioned starters.
But like I said in my posting for the price of the shipping you can have the one I have, free gratis.

Regards

Sparks.
 
I would say that the shim have to be made out of steel.It's all about friction factor called mi.The coke can is made out wit an aluminium thin.So in your torque limiter you will have steel-aluminium-steel friction couples.It has got different characteristic than steel-steel.And the important figure is that type of lubrification or it absolutely absence doesn't make an influence for friction factor is a feature of fricting couple.If the manufacturer set steel-steel couple, the only way to get it reconditioned is keep the same factor.The shim gives you bigger pressure at surfaces in your torque limiter what causing higher rate of torque once it starts slip.Notice that torque limiter has got a torque, when it beginn slip, but when it started slipping, the torque need to keep it slipping can be a bit less! That effect is happening, because of certain number of friction factor.The higher torque for "breake"the contact, and the lower torque to just keeps it slipping is related to friction factor.I would recommend use steel washer, made out with higher-carbon steel, not just soft anykind steel( like standard washers for bolts ).Try made it from body repairer's filler knife.It's a hard steel, and you can get different thicknesess.Or made it from old type of razor blade.
 
I found a nice little shim that works perfectly. I tested as in the owners doc and it now turns with about 25nm of force. Much better than the 4 nm as before.

Thanks for the help.

Regards,

Thomas
 
Andersson said:
Hello! Just wonder what thickness you used on that shim? In metric please


Hi Anderson,

It all depends on how much material has worn off, but you want to be looking at around 0.450mm, doesn't sound a lot but makes a big difference.
Be sure to have the correct amount torque when rechecking, if you have to much and not enough give, and the engine decides to kick back there could be a danger of loosing some teeth from the reduction starter gears.
This is the whole idea of the torque limiter.

Regards

Sparks.
 
I checked two limiters, one out of the box 15 Nm and a used one 12, both worked ok.
 
I am lost! Where should i shim the thing?
When i open it there is 2 washers and then you split it in two you find a friction plate
that works whith the metal side. So where do i shim it?
 
Andersson said:
I am lost! Where should i shim the thing?
When i open it there is 2 washers and then you split it in two you find a friction plate
that works whith the metal side. So where do i shim it?

Hi Andersson,

You need to put the shim at the back of the dished washer. So when you put the two harves together then the shim then the dished washer then screw it back together.
When you apply the shim it makes up for what has worn off the material, hence adding more pressure to the dished washer when you retighten it.

Regards

Sparks.
 

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