starter relay

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O

osubuckeye

Joined
Aug 25, 2006
Messages
144
Location
Pickerington OH home of the AMA
Last night as I was hooking the battery up after installing my new vapor computer I wasn't thinking or maybe the couple beers I had while installing the vapor had something to do with it......LOL. but I hooked the neg. side first and touched the frame while hooking up the pos. lead. of course it sparked, but didn't think much about it cuz lights all worked fine afterwards. This morning I walk out ready to tackle the cutting out problem. wanted to take it for a spin first put the tank and seat on went to fire her up and no e start. nothing at all. pulled the seat and tank off again and started following voltage with a flute meter. battery is fine, 12.5.volts at the battery but when I go to the starter relay i have 12.4v going in but nothing coming out.I assume its the starter relay as it is the first connection from the battery, its round and mounted under the seat on the frame with a rubber ring around it mounted to 2 fins on the frame. I am again assuming I should have voltage leaving the unit even with out pushing the start button. Is this a berg only part or do I have quicker options as there is no berg dealers here in columbus. seems to me it should be something that is interchanable with other bikes. if anyone knows......please post.
thanks,
Dan
 
may be a stupid and obvious idea but did the exact same thing on a 520 ktm i had and all it did was blow the fuses. have you changed these on yours?
 
no i didn't ...but my main lead(thickest wire) from the battery goes directly there with no fuses.
 
Re: RE: starter relay

cypher said:
may be a stupid and obvious idea but did the exact same thing on a 520 ktm i had and all it did was blow the fuses. have you changed these on yours?
Click to expand...
+1

you can always jump the starter relay and if it works then youll know its the fuse or the buttom
My $$$ on the fuse
 
+2

I am not very good at e-stuff but my understanding is you currently have prime battery power to the hot side of the starter but no circuit - the relay to complete the circuit is powered on the downstream side of the fuse.

I better step away at this point....

Mark
 
+3

My understanding is you wont have voltace leaving the relay until you hit the start button. IF and when power leaves the relay (ie press starter button) the starter will spin.

FUSE
 
ok here is what i've got after a few hours with the flute meter in my hand. you seem to be correct oz on not having voltage to the relay till you push the start button. let me start from the begining again. i have 12.5 volts from the battery to the starter relay, there is a smaller red lead spliced to the hot lead from the batt. that goes to a main on/off switch. 12.5 volts thru the switch when in the ON position. small red lead goes into harness to front of bike at the triple clamp where there is a plug connection to the start button. I have 12.5 v there on the red lead. on the back side if this plug, i have my voltage going to the e button and when the e button is pushed i have 12.4 v on the orange return lead to the ignition coil on the underside of the frame above the motor. there is where the voltage stops. I have no voltage out of the coil that would go to the starter relay to complete the circuit to the starter. I am assuming the voltage should be on white lead out of the coil as my red, green, and black leads all go to the harness coming from the stator.I don't know how many volts should be on the white lead out of the coil when the start button is pushed, but pretty sure it is not suppose to be nothing........LOL.
 
You realize that the starter relay/coil is only an electric maginet. When the coil is enigerized a maginetic feild is created and the tab inside is pulled down, that tab being pulled down is what actually makes contact between the battery lead and the starter heavy lead. can YOU HEAR THE COIL CLICKING??
Have you checked or changed the fuses? I really doubt that touching the wire from your spedo would short out the starter coil. I would think it would easly blow a 10 amp fuse though.

What year bike and is it stock wireing or has somebody been in and "custom wired"it

We can look at a wire diagram if we know the model
 
just went and tried kicking and checking for spark at the plug...nothing. no spark at all. took the coil off the bike. will i have any luck taking it to my local ktm dealer?
 
i do have an inline fuse but it is a 15 amp , which seem too high to me, but that is what was in it, it looks like someone has redone some wiring as I took off electrical tape over the connections, but not sure if any wiring was actually changed. I looked at the diagram in the manuel but it may as well be the wall street journals sunday crossword puzzle as i am not up on electrical symbols. all my lights are working fine so it seems to be isolated to the e starter circuit
 
no clicking at all from the coil or anything at all. when you push the button no sound at all, just like if you had no battery in it. poked the probe of the flute throught the insulation of the hot wire right at the base of the coil so i know voltage is getting inside the coil from the e start button.
 
I was actually tying down the positive lead to the battery terminal when it sparked. was pushing down so the screw would catch the nut on the battery term and the batt tipped back and the shank of the screw driver hit the frame. was in a hurry to finish up and not paying attention that i tied the neg. down first instead of the positive
 
i only saw one inline fuse and it is the 15A fuse on the backside of the main on/off switch
 
Someone with knowledge of the older bikes will have to help here - my 06 fuse block sits right on top of the battery.....

Cheers

Mark
 
Ok guys.....i'm getting there slowly... I replaced the ignition coil and amazingly it starts right up when you kick it. I had no spark at the plug and no voltage leaving the coil to the relay. still have an issure with the e start but have it narrowed down to either the relay or kill switch. the kill switch will not kill the motor so i have to brake and let out the clutch to stop the motor and when i short the relay the starter engages......so it sounds to me like both could be bad. but the best part is it isn't hesitating anymore when you level out the throttle. I rode it tonight for about 5 mi on the road and she purrs like a kitten. hoping i was getting a weak spark from the old coil and when i shorted the battery to the frame i killed the coil all the way. I was getting voltage out of the stator and rectifier and i even checked the kill switch by bypassing it but if the relay is bad the e start isn't gonna go. so now i just need to get a kill button first then if that doesn't fix the e start prob. then a relay. so its worth checking your coil, even tho its only about $60 cheaper than a new stator.
 

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