Starter clutch questions

I have a little hard time understanding what was updated in the starter clutch.

From looking at the different parts manuals over the years, and also reading Taffy's Wiki (yes, Taffy, I read it, and thanks for showing my overflow bottle), it is obvious that the inner part was changed in 03, but the 03 manual still lists the outer part as 01 (source of noise, apparently, when used with the 03 inner part).

But the 04 manual shows the outer part as 03- ... Huh? Bizarre, but not relevant.

Yesterday I took the starter clutch apart (as it was full of metal shavings, why? don't ask, Berger knows) and cleaned it thoroughly plus inspected it and nothing seems to be wrong in it (my bike is an 01) but somehow I can never get it to engage and it usually ends up freewheeling due to too much resistance. Nothing is worn out inside and the retainer spring is not too loose either. All the little ratchets seem to be just fine.

Do you suggest I replace the entire assembly or just leave it alone and look somewhere else for the reason why there is too much resistance from the engine when I try to e-start? If I replace, do I order the latest, or the same as in the 04 manual?

Of course this has been happening even before I removed the kickstart autodecomp cable and lever (which have nothing to do with this anyway) or took anything apart.

I cannot restart even when hot, unless I am already in motion or I am pulling the decomp lever, and even, it is so tricky that I'd rather just kick it.

Compression issue?

Bump!

If anybody has any advice, I will take it!

Thanks in advance!

20 800.40.020.000 FREILAUFZAHNRAD 03 FREE WHEEL GEAR 03 1 (outter)
24 0405 101310 NADELKRANZ K 10X13X10 02 NEEDLE BEARING K 10X13X10 02 1
25 800.40.025.000 FREILAUFNABE 03 FREE WHEEL HUB 03 1 (inner)
26 800.40.026.000 FREILAUF 03 FREE WHEEL 03 1 (sprague)

i think you'll find that there was an error in the '03 parts manual whereby they simply failed to realise that the whole set up had been improved.

they got the book right the next year in '04 of which the above is a copy, ok?

there is a thread link in the doc which i also attach here:
http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?name= ... ight=sprag

in it they explain that a 2002 and before needs a 250248 innner gear whilst the '03 onwards requires 250273 or because the part numbers have now changed: the number below:

9 250 247-01 1 1 1 1 Free wheel outer part 01- (outter)
10 250 245-01 1 1 1 1 Clutch mechanism free wheel 01- (sprague)
11 360 035-01 1 1 1 1 Needle bearing free wheel 01-
12 250 248-01 1 1 1 1 Free wheel inner part 01- (inner)

what i don't understand is why in that post yoshie and bobzilla replaced the inner freewheel and not the actual sprague bearing itself? in the above No 10 is the actual sprague bearing.

i don't think we should get hung up on the number 250273. this was a part number that lasted for one year only as would the other parts if they had been corretcly identified at the time. the new part number system started in 2004.

by matching the old and new, it should be very easy to get the right parts. but remember, the sprague was only 40% of the problem for owners wishing to have good electric starts! the battery needs beefing, the starter motor wants beefing, with the new starter owners need a new holding bracket. then we have the modified decomp which i've never truly understood.

regards

taffy

I did beefup the motor (which is now the one from a CBR 900, with an upgraded bracket) and the battery is a YTZ7S.

My issue is not with the cold start, which I know is practically impossible, but with regular warm restarts.

It seems to hit a wall of compression and the sprague gives up against the clutch basket.

I did do a major cleanup, though, I am going to adjust the valves today after the Thanksgiving dinner and will let you know.

Quote from me: "then we have the modified decomp which i've never truly understood".

clearly froggy, you have a decop problem. they changed the profile and they changed the cam and they even changed the position relative to TDC when the decomp kicked. but do i know where it is?

why don't you help me mon ami and go find it? try putting joeusa as the author.

what year cam have you got anyway?

froggy, why can i never stop thinking of you as anything but lazy? i'm really unfair to you aren't i?

regards

Taffy

Froggy
I think you have the decomp "blob" problem
When the cam turns slowly as when starting on the button the springs on the cam decomp let the valve open just a bit and release some of the compression and when the motor starts the weights swing by cintrifigul force and lower the blob. The fix is to either have the blob welded up to a higher level to open the valve a bit more OR but a new decomp and that will do the same thing. The old saying " a noisy valve is a happy valve" dont work here cause if you have too much clearence you dont get the lift out of the blob and hit the wall of compression.
Hope I have not muddied the watters even more. I remember some bodys thread about getting the blob welded up and some pic in a gallery

Happy turkey day boys but I'm having a 6 pound rib eye steak!

Oh well... But do I really need to change the starter clutch or no? I guess it's doing it's job just fine, which is too fail

You can look at it this way Froggy
Mine on my 05 DIDNT slip and broke instead
BTW what was the metal you were talking about????? or should we not ask

Has anybody tried to advance the grip of the freewheel mechanism?
I think about sanding the wheels or/and the clutch mechanism.

Yesterday I tried to start after camchain replacement.
(YTZ 7 has 12,83 V after charging, decomp welding, earth cable like 04)
But the e-start does freewheel without a try of grip.

OK, when the engine is warm it is normaly better, but why?
Is a better grip with oil between the parts (adhesion??) or worse while greasing?

I have a 501 year 2001, freewheel ist updated to 03 with the torque limiter.

The starter motor is original.

Is ther a "tinker solution" known?

regards,
husa98