So my 09 fe570 has run flawlessly for so long now.. until today. i think the clocked turned over 100hours today as well. I was riding along then it sputtered and started to die. when i let off the throttle it would stay idle. if i rolled on the throttle, it would backfire and stall. anytime i gave it a good amount of throttle, it would backfire and stall- i ended up limping back to the truck down there road. I could pull in the clutch and rev the hell out of it, but if it wanted to roll- it would just fart and die. This winter i changed out the fuel filter and the old one was squeaky clean. Any ideas? suggestions?
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That's what i would think- but i cannot wrap my head around the fact that when i pull the clutch in and rev the bike it responds normally. I did pull the air filter last night and saw that the oil that was once on the filter now puddled in the bottom of the airbox. Not a huge amount, but it appears to have dripped from the filter like i have never seen before. Will try putting it back in and testing the bike again today.
are u sure that is air filter oil and not motor oil? that small hole in the airbox spits out engine oil when it revs too high for too long or if you put too much oil in the engine or going down steep stuff for too long. My 390 tends to spit up some oil on occasion, my brother's 390 doesn't seem too. Any blinking on the FI? check to see if the fi bulb is good. Not sure if the excess oil is related to your problem. Do u have the stock airbox with the flange in it? possible that oil is getting to the air intake?
come to think of it- i was doing a steep downhill before this happened. Also the oil in the airbox could have easily been engine oil as it is the same color as the air filter oil. Knowing this now- i would lean towards that oil in the box being engine oil as there is noway that much air filter oil came off that filter. Is this common and could this be causing my symptoms?
if you have an air filter box with the flange then the oil shouldn't reach the throttle body....how much oil was in the the airbox? I generally don't fill the oil past the 1/2 way mark on the glass window when the engine is warm. Anything over 2/3 and i tend to find a bit of oil in the airbox after long stretches at over 65 mph/115 kmh or when the bike tips over alot. I can't see how this can be related to your problem. Any FI blinks?
guessing that when the bike is under load then it needs more gas and it's not getting enough due to blockage. Happened to me in my old ford van, it would run fine until about 45 mph then would start sputtering, replaced fuel filter and no more problem.
Another issue my brother's bike had was that when wet, the plug wire was jumping a spark to the radiator or frame causing hard starting issues and unexpected shutdown. An easy check at least. turn on bike when its dark and give it gas, look for spark... spray a bit of water on and around the plug wire. you can replace just the plug wire without having to replace the kokusan, it pulls right apart.
Another issue my brother's bike had was that when wet, the plug wire was jumping a spark to the radiator or frame causing hard starting issues and unexpected shutdown. An easy check at least. turn on bike when its dark and give it gas, look for spark... spray a bit of water on and around the plug wire. you can replace just the plug wire without having to replace the kokusan, it pulls right apart.
did u store it over the winter, not sure how long the bike stood but gas will breakdown over time. I don't ride for 5 months a year and add fuel stabilizer before storing. I'd guess it must be a bad/dirty injector if it just started happening out of the blue. How many hours have you put on it this year?
just saw your older post about your flood and noticed that you dont have the airbox with the flange. oil may have made it to the throttle body, not sure what would happen when that happens..... possible smoking...? It's been running well since the flood? Find any water in the oil or anywhere else?
here's another theory....
in relation to your flood, it may be possible that your map sensor( the sensor closest to your throttle plate) collected moisture causing it to relay false resistances......
The MAP sensor evaluates the pressure within the intake manifold assembly. If a car requires more power, more air will infiltrate the system, causing pressure to lower. The MAP sensor then reacts by reporting the low pressure and the engine allows more fuel into the system to balance the fuel-to-air ratio for more performance power.
Effects
If a MAP sensor is wet, the moisture can affect how the device reports pressure levels by not recognizing the appropriate changes within the intake manifold. In addition, the circuitry within the sensor can fail with water infiltration, necessitating a repair or replacement of the device.
Considerations
The driver will feel the effects of a wet MAP sensor. The car will idle roughly or even surge. Overall power may be diminished due to the fuel-to-air ratio confusion within the engine chamber without the accurate reports from the MAP sensor.
Read more: What Happens When a Map Sensor Gets Wet in a Car? | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/facts_7974734_happe ... z2QYywAUJR
in relation to your flood, it may be possible that your map sensor( the sensor closest to your throttle plate) collected moisture causing it to relay false resistances......
The MAP sensor evaluates the pressure within the intake manifold assembly. If a car requires more power, more air will infiltrate the system, causing pressure to lower. The MAP sensor then reacts by reporting the low pressure and the engine allows more fuel into the system to balance the fuel-to-air ratio for more performance power.
Effects
If a MAP sensor is wet, the moisture can affect how the device reports pressure levels by not recognizing the appropriate changes within the intake manifold. In addition, the circuitry within the sensor can fail with water infiltration, necessitating a repair or replacement of the device.
Considerations
The driver will feel the effects of a wet MAP sensor. The car will idle roughly or even surge. Overall power may be diminished due to the fuel-to-air ratio confusion within the engine chamber without the accurate reports from the MAP sensor.
Read more: What Happens When a Map Sensor Gets Wet in a Car? | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/facts_7974734_happe ... z2QYywAUJR
another post from another member
2010 FX450 Intermittent Engine Bogging Problem
Unread postby DaveBerg » May 27th, 2012, 11:17 pm
"What's that about hindsight always being 20/20?!" :lol:
Problem: Intermittent engine bogging issue shortly into ride. Similar to what it feels like when a 2 stroke is fouling a spark plug. - Engine would run perfect in garage and in staging area, but 5 minutes or so into ride this problem would present itself. Very short in duration, and when not bogging out, engine would seem to run perfectly.
Solution: Both my battery terminal cables were loose. Tightened up, bike runs as good as new! :cheers:
I actually went through the entire gambit of solutions before realizing what it was. It took several days and a lot of teardown, assembly time chasing down. :? This included checking fuel pump, changing fuel filter, checking injector, changing spark plug, and finally trying to chase down electrical short that didn't exist; fun fun! And yes, after I discovered, I was both pissed off at myself and happy it was so simple.
So if you're some what new to the battery operated, EFI dirt bike world like myself - Don't assume its something mechanical before you've thoroughly checked electrical; Start by checking your battery condition, connections, and fuses first! :roll: - Hope this helps someone else, Happy Trails!
2010 FX450 Intermittent Engine Bogging Problem
Unread postby DaveBerg » May 27th, 2012, 11:17 pm
"What's that about hindsight always being 20/20?!" :lol:
Problem: Intermittent engine bogging issue shortly into ride. Similar to what it feels like when a 2 stroke is fouling a spark plug. - Engine would run perfect in garage and in staging area, but 5 minutes or so into ride this problem would present itself. Very short in duration, and when not bogging out, engine would seem to run perfectly.
Solution: Both my battery terminal cables were loose. Tightened up, bike runs as good as new! :cheers:
I actually went through the entire gambit of solutions before realizing what it was. It took several days and a lot of teardown, assembly time chasing down. :? This included checking fuel pump, changing fuel filter, checking injector, changing spark plug, and finally trying to chase down electrical short that didn't exist; fun fun! And yes, after I discovered, I was both pissed off at myself and happy it was so simple.
So if you're some what new to the battery operated, EFI dirt bike world like myself - Don't assume its something mechanical before you've thoroughly checked electrical; Start by checking your battery condition, connections, and fuses first! :roll: - Hope this helps someone else, Happy Trails!
Fe390vt...... who is this guy? Newbie with 17 posts... most of them in this post. Some excellent info here and I solved the problem. 
was the loose battery cable. Dude... I cant thank you enough. Sure it was simple... but I could have easily looked past this. Thanks for your help and persistence . I nominate you for a users under 18 posts award. Now I can race this weekend !
was the loose battery cable. Dude... I cant thank you enough. Sure it was simple... but I could have easily looked past this. Thanks for your help and persistence . I nominate you for a users under 18 posts award. Now I can race this weekend !Similar threads
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