lantz said:
Yep I got a bunch of papers including part receipts and stuff like that, including the manuals, but thanks! (also found the manuals on husaberg.com, useful for printing exploded views on A3 paper!)
Yeah, or well, close to TDC at least. I assume both intake and exhaust valves are closed for a better part of the crank shaft revolution around ignition. I think I'm gonna redo the exhausts though, without the radiator for better accesss + going to disconnect the decomp and remove the spring completely, that should make sure the decomp doesn't interfere right?
I've got the fuel screw set at 1½ turns like the manual suggests, I've also tried 2 turns. So you're saying that a leaner mixture might be better? I've tried both with and without the choke. The jet is original as far as I know, would getting the right one be beneficial to starting?
Yes, the correct choke jet will help greatly in starting, in general they were too big and delivered too much fuel. Check the owners Doc for the correct size.
Decomp: Your bike has two external decomps right? One on the bar and one on the kick starter. Since you have the manual make sure that they are adjusted properly. You will want to loosen them both up when you check the valves so that it is not interfering with your adjustment procedure.
Valve Adjustment: There lot's of threads here talking about it but, I'll give a quick over view. Take off the ignition cover to begin with so you can get a wrench on the flywheel nut for fine adjustment later. Take out the spark plug. Take off the valve covers. Loosen the external decomp wires (you also have an auto decompressor on the cam since yours is an electric start). Using the kick starter slowly push the motor through it's stroke, you will see the intakes open, and then the motor will roll over and come up on the compression stroke and you will hear a chuff out the plug hole. As you keep rolling the motor over with the kick starter, you will see the exhausts open, and then just as they are almost closed you will see the intakes open-
this is TDC on the exhaust stroke and is where most folks have trouble because this not the TDC where you want to set the valves. As you continue to push the kick starter the intakes will then close and the motor will roll over again, and you'll hear the chuff out the exhaust, THIS is the piston coming up on the compression stroke.
Now, put a long ty wrap in the plug hole and turn the flywheel with your hand or a wrench, and watch the ty wrap push out of the hole or start to drop in, adjust the crank with the flywheel until the piston is at it's highest point and you will be there. DO NOT USE ANYTHING MADE OF METAL, OR A PENCIL TO PUT IN THE PLUG HOLE. It also needs to be a lot longer than you think might be necessary to keep it from falling into the cylinder if you crank the motor around and the piston falls down to the bottom of the stroke. That's an old story from one of our members who used a pencil and it fell into the motor.
Now adjust your valves to spec, and don't move the motor. Put everything back together, and then set the play on the engine mounted or kick starter decompresser cable first. You can actuate the decomp lever by hand and feel it touch the exhaust rocker, just to get an idea of how it feels. Adjust the free play according to the manual. I think it's 3mm's. Then adjust the bar mounted decomp cable. Once you have done this put the tank back on, and recheck the decomp free play to make sure the bar mounted cable didn't get kinked and is pulling on the decomp actuator. Turn the bars full left and check, and then turn them full right and check. The only time you'll be using the bar mounted lever is when you flood it in a tip over or something, and need to kick the motor through several times to clear it.
Starting: When you kick start the bike, push the kick starter down, and roll the motor through a couple of times with out letting the lever come up more than half way. You will hear the intake stroke through the carb, and feel the engine hit TDC on compression. Now let the kick starter come all the way to the top, and you will hear a click, that is the sound of the kick start mounted decompressor resetting itself. Now give it a good kick from there. Always let the kick start lever come all the way to the top before kicking. The auto decompressor should take care of all of this, but, these earlier bikes had some issues with that not always working correctly, and Taffy came up with the "Dutch Clog" modification to the auto decompressor to ensure proper lift of the auto decompressor during electric and kick starting.
Hope this helps,
Dale
