Snapped tappet and I think I need a new head

Broken tappet and I think I need a new head

Good evening all,

I have a 1997 FE350 which I have been very slowly working on. The time has come to have a look at the clearances and top end to see if I can make it easier to start! I'd like to ask a few questions, please correct me if I use the wrong name for parts as I'm always learning.

I took the tappet adjustment covers off and set the engine to TDC and as I expected there was no movement whatsoever in the rockers. I loosened off the nuts and tried to wind out the tappets but they were all pretty much on the limit and unfortunately one snapped! I suspect it was previously damaged because it took very little effort for it to shear off.

As I seem not to be able to adjust the tappets any more does this mean I need a new head? Or maybe just new valve seats in the head?

Also, I have found it hard to get parts for this bike in the UK, is there anywhere I would get a new head? I'm going to try my nearest Husaberg dealer soon but it's quite far from me.

My next step is to remove the head but I have done a compression test dry and wet and both are poor (30 psi at best) so I am sure the valve seats are worn. I also did a compression test with the cams removed so that the valves would be seated as best they could be and the result was still poor.

Pics:

I believe these are known as tappet adjusters? One of which is snapped.
Is there any reason why 2 ends are flat and two are rounded?


In this pic you can see that the intake has one flat head and one rounded head and also that the exhaust has one flat and one rounded. This confused me as I would expect to see the types together on the same rocker.


Does anyone know what engine this is so that I can try to find spares?


Thanks in advance, any help is appreciated.
Joe

I would think that you could replace the seats and possibly valves if needed. I don't think a head will be easy to find. You have taffmeisters and a few other berg shops over there.

With regards to the valve adjustment screw, the domed or rounded version was used from 89-95. The other version was used from 96-08 (and maybe later). The flat ones you have are the newer updated ones with the swiveling contact part removed (see the attached images). The old style has been superceeded by the newer style. The part number to order is 59036062000. The nuts are sold sperately 59036062100. It is not uncommon for the swiveling part to come off the screw when taking off the rocker cover. I always keep a few extras on hand.

Your bike is probably a 93 or 94. Definitely not a 97.

The 10th digit of the VIN number stamped on the frame will tell you the year. Check it here

Check with Taffmeisters and see if he can fit new valve seats.

Indeed, unless the head is cracked or seriously damaged, it is much more likely that you simply need rocker arms and components. No need to chicken little quite yet.

Kayeffess said:

I would think that you could replace the seats and possibly valves if needed. I don't think a head will be easy to find. You have taffmeisters and a few other berg shops over there.

Click to expand...

Thank you, I have had a look at Taffmeisters and I'm sure I will give him a call soon to see if he can post parts to me. It's good to know that there is a Husaberg specialist in the country.

husabutt said:

With regards to the valve adjustment screw, the domed or rounded version was used from 89-95. The other version was used from 96-08 (and maybe later). The flat ones you have are the newer updated ones with the swiveling contact part removed (see the attached images). The old style has been superceeded by the newer style. The part number to order is 59036062000. The nuts are sold sperately 59036062100. It is not uncommon for the swiveling part to come off the screw when taking off the rocker cover. I always keep a few extras on hand.

Your bike is probably a 93 or 94. Definitely not a 97.

The 10th digit of the VIN number stamped on the frame will tell you the year. Check it here

Check with Taffmeisters and see if he can fit new valve seats.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the explanation and the part numbers, they will be a great help when ordering to replace. Could I ask where you found the part numbers? I would love to have a microfiche for the bike.

I have checked the VIN and the 10th letter is 'N' making it a 1992. I assumed that it was 1996/1997 because the bike is road registered on a 1997 plate and the document states the year of manufacture as 1997. Thank you for correcting me, at least I can search for the right year of bike now.

I will ask Taffmeisters about replacing the valve seats when I have removed the head.

Goose916 said:

Indeed, unless the head is cracked or seriously damaged, it is much more likely that you simply need rocker arms and components. No need to chicken little quite yet.

Click to expand...

I only thought I might need a new head if it wasn't possible to replace the valve seats. I'm not sure that new rockers and components would fix the valve seats as I removed the rockers completely and the compression test was still below 30psi. :unsure:

another little clue from your pics.. both cam lobes are pointing up. if that is the position it was in, is it possible you checked the adjustment at the wrong tdc? you normally check at tdc compression which is just after the intake valves close. checking at the other tdc usually will have very tight exhaust valves

Joef read my post in this thread on how to look up parts for a old Berg.

http://husaberg.org/electrical/21332-sem-help.html

Thanks Husabutt I will read through that in a minute.

ned37 said:

another little clue from your pics.. both cam lobes are pointing up. if that is the position it was in, is it possible you checked the adjustment at the wrong tdc? you normally check at tdc compression which is just after the intake valves close. checking at the other tdc usually will have very tight exhaust valves

Click to expand...

Hi Ned, yes I think it's quite possible that I tested it in the wrong position.
However, I did a compression test with the rocker cover and rockers removed and it was still below 30 psi. I also tried putting some oil in the cylinder to prove the piston rings and it was still a similar reading. Am I correct in assuming that this is badly seating valves?

I would rather not remove the head if I don't have to.

Thanks,
Joe.

Could be the valves are just shot. New ones and a good lapping may take care of it. The valves may just be loaded with carbon and a good cleaning and again lapping. Only one way to find out.

Did you see this thread? http://husaberg.org/new-users/21321-just-bought-2000-fe600e.html

Hello Joef

you really need to take the head off and have a look. they tulip the valves and the seats sink to go with them. everything else Husabutt and Ned have said is spot on. old school ya see!

I sell new 1mm oversize seats and new valves and can save your rocker arm as well. I can fit the later tappets with pads - or sell them to you.

no need for a new head.

I even have the last 86mm head gasket in captivity! and I am buying a 350 from the south-west this week I hope so....

but seriously, if you need any service books, parts books or manuals we can all supply a free copy here.

regards

Taffy

Thanks for the reply Taffy, I haven't got around to taking off the head yet but I have good intentions of doing it this weekend.

Could you give me a price for 2 tappets, 2 intake and 2 exhaust valves please?

What do you mean you could save my rocker arm? Whats likely to be wrong with it?

I think I've got the relevant manuals via this forum, thanks though!
Joe.

The rocker arm assemblies have 3 wear areas;
The shaft bushing
The valve adjusters
The roller bearings

I finally got around to taking the head off today and it wasn't as bad as I expected.

The valves look the right shape to me, not 'tuliped' and the seats don't look too bad either. I'm hoping that they will be ok after a good lapping. The only questionable thing was a gummy black substance on the outside of the exhaust valves, although the whole exhaust had traces of this in it.

Valves:






Head:





Piston:



Cam shaft showing water pump oil seal. I think I'll replace the seal!



Complete album link

All comments very welcome, always glad of advice.

Thanks,
Joe.

SERIOUS OIL ISSUES, it would suggest piston is worn out and oil is bypassing the rings. very bad.

could be the exhaust valve guide seals are shot or just the oil from the piston is a shocker!

your HG is from the wrong CC. looks like a 95mm HG not an 86mm HG.

regards

Taffy

Ok thanks Taffy. Do you stock the piston rings? Can't find them on your website.

I did put oil into the cylinder when I was compression testing it so maybe that contributed. Although the exhaust was gummed up long before that so I think it has been like it for a while. If it was the piston rings, would the compression test have still been bad if I put oil into the cylinder?

Thanks,
Joe.

I would have done it without. my experience is that a compression tester is an unreliable thing. they make the good look bad without necassarily making the bad look bad!

always go for a new piston. they only last 150 hours so you're there before you know it!

regards

Taffy