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i believe it's possible. the only way is to pull the tensioner, zip tie the camchain to the camchain so that it's 'stuck' to the teeth and then undo the camwheel bolts. pull the camwheel forward and away from the cam. then let it dangle from the frame (which must be jet washed throughout the wiring harness if you want to qualify as a good boy!) by a piece of welding wire or safety wire etc.
the cam will now lift out with the bearings attached.
regards
Taffy
the cam will now lift out with the bearings attached.
regards
Taffy
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It is as Taffy says but you have to remove the bearing right next to the cam wheel and also remove the autodecompressor arm - otherwise the gear will not come off the cam.
So, in detail:
Put the engine in top dead centre and rotate 180 degrees. Loosen and remove the bolt fixing the cam gear to the cam, then rotate back to tdc on the compression stroke. Now, remove the cam chain tensioner and then tap or pull the bearing off (be patient and careful) and next carefully pull out the autodecompressor arm. You will need to rotate the arm round (so that you can pull it past the casing). Dislodge the spring and while pulling the arm out hold onto the srping nopting how it was fitted.
Once this is done, remove the final bolt securing the cam gear and tap the gear off the cam. The cam is lifted to an angle, pulling up on the other side where the bearing still is and then sideways out.
Putting it back together is pretty muuch the same but just be very careful to make sure you get the timing right and be patient with the decomp arm spring - it's fiddly. The cam gear bolts should be correctly torqued at 22NM AND use a non permanent threadlock!
Hope this helps,
Simon
So, in detail:
Put the engine in top dead centre and rotate 180 degrees. Loosen and remove the bolt fixing the cam gear to the cam, then rotate back to tdc on the compression stroke. Now, remove the cam chain tensioner and then tap or pull the bearing off (be patient and careful) and next carefully pull out the autodecompressor arm. You will need to rotate the arm round (so that you can pull it past the casing). Dislodge the spring and while pulling the arm out hold onto the srping nopting how it was fitted.
Once this is done, remove the final bolt securing the cam gear and tap the gear off the cam. The cam is lifted to an angle, pulling up on the other side where the bearing still is and then sideways out.
Putting it back together is pretty muuch the same but just be very careful to make sure you get the timing right and be patient with the decomp arm spring - it's fiddly. The cam gear bolts should be correctly torqued at 22NM AND use a non permanent threadlock!
Hope this helps,
Simon
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yes i think neds righ
i must have been having a Homer moment when i thought of cutting corners, as i have found in the past: it does not pay in the long run.
i think ill just buy a new soft link and split the chain aint no big deal!
after all i will be replacing bearings cam and rollers any way
i must have been having a Homer moment when i thought of cutting corners, as i have found in the past: it does not pay in the long run.
i think ill just buy a new soft link and split the chain aint no big deal!
after all i will be replacing bearings cam and rollers any way
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ned37 said:
Lplates said:
Fook me, are we looking at a couple of armchair mechanics here? :roll:
ned37,
I'm only guessing here but to me it seems you could not even count the number of times you've done this procedure in this way on one hand could you?
So let me guess that you're using guesswork to imply advice to someone rather than specific knowledge and experience?
Hmmmm, imaginative mechanical advice eah :wink:
Well, I've done this procedure on many many ocassions, both in the dyno room and by the side of a race circuit while testing different camshafts back to back.
Anyway Lplates,
Do it whichever way you feel is most comfortable. I don't know whether you like to take your advice from those who know or not. And anyway, it also depends on how much time and effort you would like to save yourself. And we're not talking short cuts here.....
Personally, I know what link I would prefer if I wanted to keep the chain rotating as it should inside for a long time, and its name does not involve the word "soft" or "split" :wink:
Cheers,
Simon
ned37
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ooo, that hurts :cry: .
what i was thinking was: even having a mental image of what it takes to perform the tasks you described, i felt that somebody who perhaps didn't have said image, might screw it up and would like an out. besides, i've always felt it best to replace high wear items when you are in a position to get to them.
and how did you know how many fingers are on my hand?
ned
what i was thinking was: even having a mental image of what it takes to perform the tasks you described, i felt that somebody who perhaps didn't have said image, might screw it up and would like an out. besides, i've always felt it best to replace high wear items when you are in a position to get to them.
and how did you know how many fingers are on my hand?
ned
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ned37 said:ooo, that hurts :cry: .
what i was thinking was: even having a mental image of what it takes to perform the tasks you described, i felt that somebody who perhaps didn't have said image, might screw it up and would like an out. besides, i've always felt it best to replace high wear items when you are in a position to get to them.
and how did you know how many fingers are on my hand?
ned
Hey ned37,
No intention to hurt you there, really :wink: The intention is simply to put assumptions to bed before they grow too big - as there are so many already within the forum as it is
I understand your concerns but in actual fact, the way I'm proposing is an easier way to replace the camshaft and in reality poses less of a risk - splitting the cam chain increases risks if you're not used to the task, particularly if you drop the cam chain!
In addition, and something I've seen several times is that whoever is doing the replacement removes the cam and gear and then realises they've got to undo the gear nuts - with no purchase.
Anyway, my intention is to save people hassle and hard work where none is required. Instead time is made for that extra beer or two!
As for the five fingers, I must be psychic :wink:
Cheers,
Simon
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- lancs uk
come on ladies settle down;
cam has been changed checked for tension tappets set motor still sounded a bit rattly so i removed clutch side again checked around and clutch basket seemed to have a little horizontal play so i removed end plate cover to find center nut was not full home opened lock washer nipped up and rebuilded.I still think its a bit noise but carnt put my finger on anything?
cam has been changed checked for tension tappets set motor still sounded a bit rattly so i removed clutch side again checked around and clutch basket seemed to have a little horizontal play so i removed end plate cover to find center nut was not full home opened lock washer nipped up and rebuilded.I still think its a bit noise but carnt put my finger on anything?
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