Running your motorcycle without a battery

is this easy or possible when you run the FE?

many of you will know that i ran without a kickstart at all for two years and that i finally gave in and re-fitted the kickstart. what has made me go the other way you ask?

well firstly, i may make my own airbox in the future and i don't want any starter motor or battery gubbins there.

secondly, whilst not out to PAY to save weight from the machine, i don't actually mind removing things that i don't need or use and in this case the ES is completely redundant

thirdly, i will never stall this bike on it's side anymore due to the FCR carb.

fourthly, i will never stall this bike whilst at corners etc whilst i have the rekluse auto clutch fitted.

filthily, you need to kickstart off the line with the '02s anyway coz the leccy boot likes to turn over a few times! so i need the kick regardless!

i'll sell the bits on ebay and go on holiday (ok, it'll only be to bognor for a day but it's the thought that counts!)

so tell me how do i run straight off like an MX machine?

regards

Taffy

Try a new machaine

Buy a new 2005 FC 450 it may feel better I did!!

Hi Taffy,
I do understand your point on not needing a electric start in some cases....BUT...The electric start is really handy when 1.you are up to your knees in mud 2.just too tired to kick start 3.in a position where trying to kick it will send you over a cliff 4.the engine for some reason it not a willing starter...and 5. it is just very cool to push the button and go!...In a perfect case scenario, racing only, electric start may seem superfluous but in the real world it can be a beautiful thing.....nsman

This may sound stupid....but cant you just unplug everything. Remove the battery, box and starter. Install the block off plug from an FC in the starter hole. Any wires that don't unplug could be cut and neatly terminated at the harness. There should be no issues with just removing the lot.
You may want to keep all the old parts for reinstallation before resale. The next owner may not see the lack of an estart as an advantage. :signhuh:

Taff - Did you want to strip it bare or keep a few 'leccy bits intact? If you want a light or two you need to keep at least the regulator in the power supply. If the rectifier is seperate you can lose it & run lights off AC, if it is part of the reg then the lights run off DC.

I tend to agree that it might be worth keeping said liberated 'leccy bits for a subsequent owner.

i'm electrically iliterate!

so if i were to pull the battery off and the condensor and the leccy boot; it would run and start and be ok kinda thingy? yes?

i could look at the wiring diagram and be non the wiser but it doesn't matter i'll call out my auto electrician chum and get him on the case if i go this way.

just hoped someone had done it. fryguy can you elaborate?

i don't need lights and i don't mind the wiring being there but maybe only the wiring!

the first two responses were ummm-great :roll: :roll:

regards

Taffy

You can just pull it all off, even the regulator/rectifier, no problems. All you need to be careful of when you've finished are the right connections from the stator.

You will still be able to run your lights as they don't actually need to go through the regulator/rectifier. The only thing left that will suffer is the horn as that does require DC voltage.

Cheers,
Simon

I run without battery. The bike usually starts at the first kick warm so I do not need it either.

Since I need lights I run everything off AC. Unfortunately I need to re-install the battery and a new rectifier since I will use HID when I have build my new helmet/head light.

Many ask why I do not use the e-start so if you want to sell the bike in the future it will be easier if you still have the electrical parts. On the other hand, if you keep the bike a couple of years more the value of the bike is so low that it should not have any impact.

anybody wanna run through what i need to do to make it work?

regards

taffy

I think most of it has been covered in this post already. Is there anything specific that you have in mind. It should be a doodle

ok. so i'm going to pull the battery, battery box, condensor, HT leads, starter. pull the three condensor wires from there abode and start the bike yeh? :?: :?:

no ignition switch wire thingy things?

bike won't explode?

will the horn still work when it's running?

regards

Taffy

I dont know about the horn, does it work without the engine running? Starter hole plug? I have faith that you will emerge victorious and unscathed from this challenge :wink:

The only parts you need to leave in place for the bike to run are: the stator; wires connecting the stator to the CDI/coil unit; the CDI/coil unit; the high tension lead from the CDI/coil to the spark plug; spark plug cap; the spark plug.

Unplug the orange kill switch wire from the CDI/coil unit. If you do not use the orange wire on the CDI/coil (see below) then tape it up so it can't short onto the frame & stop the bike.

Unplug the bigger wires from the stator up under the tank that feed the 12V system tape up the plugs that stay on the bike so they can't short out between each other.

Unplug, unbolt & remove everything else electrical. If you are careful you should not have to cut any wires - it should unplug & come off in several chunks. Plug up the great gaping hole left into the engine case where the starter came out.

The bike should still go OK but you won't have a kill switch. If you are happy stalling it all the time then do that. If not you can get a handlebar mount kill button switch from a bike shop. Connect the wire from the kill button to the plug on the orange wire from the CDI/coil unit. You will probably have to run a second wire from under the clamp of the kill switch back to an earth point on the frame as the earthing of the switch to the frame is not good through the handlebar vibration rubbers & the head stem bearings.

The high/lo spark curve switch (if fitted) defaults to the high position if it is removed & left disconnected.

Can't guarantee your stator won't die, but it is most unlikely to be anything you did.

I'd suggest taking good notes & if possible take photos as you pull bits off. They will sure help if anyone ever wants to put them back.

Be sure under NO circumstances remove the spark plug & look at it! :wink:

i did titter at the spark plug thingy! ok so i know only one thing about electrics-never look at yer plug!

the whole idea of going to kickstart only is coz the bike never stalls with a keihin on it and never, never stalls with the rekluse fitted!

so stopping it is a more serious problem than you think!!!!!!!!!

thanks for the tips and will plough into it soon.

regards

Taffy

Taff - Is this the bike you were toying with fitting 17" cast road wheels to? If so, does it have to stay DOT compliant in your part of the world to use it on the road? From what I can tell, few people would recommend using cast wheels on the racetrack. If not used there or on the road there ain't many other places to use 'em.

I discovered the hard way that 17" road wheels really suck in the mud!

suzuki RGV wheels yes! dunno so much about the 17" thingy bit though. it was also a case of getting valid dyno results this way.

regards


Taffy