Removing the inner clutch hub....

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M

MisterHuz

Joined
Oct 26, 2006
Messages
2
Please help me,
i am not able to remove the locking bolt (27mm) of the clutch, maybe is a left hand bolt?
Have you any idea to lock the clutch without the specific locking tool?

Thanks for the answers...
 
Hi MisterHuz,

Welcome to the site, I made mine from three old steel clutch plates and welded a steel bar so it locks the outer to the inner but then you need to lock the outer basket to the balance shaft gear.
I bought the Husaberg tool for this works effortlessly.

Regards

Sparks.
 
sparks said:
Hi MisterHuz,

Welcome to the site, I made mine from three old steel clutch plates and welded a steel bar so it locks the outer to the inner but then you need to lock the outer basket to the balance shaft gear.
I bought the Husaberg tool for this works effortlessly.

Regards

Sparks.
Click to expand...

And it's a right hand thead, only the flywheel nut is left handed.

Sparks.
 
All I've ever done for years is to cram a clean rag into the area where the primary and clutch basket gears mesh so the rag creates an interference fit. After you loosen or tighten the nut on the clutch basket, you simply reverse the gears and remove the rag. It always works great and is very cheap! :lol:
 
i use an air gun! lucky me!

actually the earlier engines (circa '02) are circlip but i've been there!

SPARKS: have you a photo of your home made tool and also the factory tool for locking the gears?

email me if you find it easier. if not - then here?

regards

Taffy
 
A piece of 2-3mm thick (soft) aluminum sheet metal works also, as the "cloth-method". For removing the nut, the air-gun is super. I have also made a tool of the kind Sparks did.
 
I was told the original Husaberg tool was nolonger available that is why I made my own.
Similar to Dr_C I have used a copper coin in the past, as long as it is a soft metal.

Regards

Saprks.
 
Resurecting an old thread here, need to remove the cluch nut to refit the kitstart mech thats popped out..
Look like theres 3 ways to remove the inner hub...
1.air gun (dont have)
2.segment tool, or clutch plate and friction plate welded together (dont have)
3 rag method- jamming a rag or coin between the basket and primary gears

Dont understand the rag method, if you lock up the primary and clutch basket gears, the inner hub and nut will still spin freely.
Can some one clear this up for me

x
 
philis said:
Resurecting an old thread here, need to remove the cluch nut to refit the kitstart mech thats popped out..
Look like theres 3 ways to remove the inner hub...
1.air gun (dont have)
2.segment tool, or clutch plate and friction plate welded together (dont have)
3 rag method- jamming a rag or coin between the basket and primary gears

Dont understand the rag method, if you lock up the primary and clutch basket gears, the inner hub and nut will still spin freely.
Can some one clear this up for me

x
Click to expand...

Put the bike in highest gear and have a second people braking the rear brake. then you loosen-tighten the bolt. Can do it one man if you are little gymnastic.

Regards
 
Indeed! However the tripple pike with spanner is not my strongest exercise

I may employ some rope tied between brake and foot rest.

Thanks Sweedish
 
Just a word of precaution. Jamming the rear wheel is putting the torque of the nut all the way through the gear box. That means 70-110Nm static "load" on just one tooth, depending on what nut you are tightening. In some engine makes, that might very well be over what the gear box is designed for.
:hathat35:
 
Dr_C said:
Just a word of precaution. Jamming the rear wheel is putting the torque of the nut all the way through the gear box. That means 70-110Nm static "load" on just one tooth, depending on what nut you are tightening. In some engine makes, that might very well be over what the gear box is designed for.
:hathat35:
Click to expand...

aha!
a...jinling....a ting pong....an itchy fanny!

but for a husaberg = sacre bleu!

:lol:

Taffy
 
Still a bad habit, and not something you would see happening in my workshop.

OK, Taffy, let me now see your greatness winning over your desperate urge for getting the last word! :D
 
Dr_C said:
Just a word of precaution. Jamming the rear wheel is putting the torque of the nut all the way through the gear box. That means 70-110Nm static "load" on just one tooth, depending on what nut you are tightening. In some engine makes, that might very well be over what the gear box is designed for.
:hathat35:
Click to expand...

Yes offcorse you are loading the gearbox equally as the tightening torque. But doesn't the engine itself producing much more torque than that??, with the gear-ratio between primary-gear and cluchbasket? I think so. Anyhow I have done it at least 10 time on hsb and hsq bikes in the past. Now got the factory tool 2 month ago nice tool. Pneumatic impacthammer is gold when loosing the nut, the same on the primary gear nut. Bought a deep impactsocket to that to get free of the oil shaft in the end.

Regards
 
Dr_C said:
That means 70-110Nm static "load" on just one tooth,
:hathat35:
Click to expand...

Surely tho, there is the same load on one tooth on the basket

clutch-1.jpg
 
swedish
the tool in the above photo? was it this one? there was one for sale in the UHE classifieds and someone beat me to it!
Dr_C
found a Ti shop yet? still waiting for the mikuni settings right down to the last detail and worth £££££ to me!

as 'ret' would have said in "gone with the wind": quite frankly my dear, i don't give a damn!

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
swedish
the tool in the above photo? was it this one? there was one for sale in the UHE classifieds and someone beat me to it!
Dr_C
found a Ti shop yet? still waiting for the mikuni settings right down to the last detail and worth £££££ to me!

as 'ret' would have said in "gone with the wind": quite frankly my dear, i don't give a darn!

regards

Taffy
Click to expand...

If you mean the cluch-lock tool inside the basket yes. Quite expensive but im a tooloholic :) The other gear-segment-stop-tool I use a cutted gear from a printingpress with the right gearmodule. Free from work :)

Regards
 
There is no such thing as a qiuck answer. The Husaberg gearbox may very well survive this treatment, but please do not use this method in general! The gears inside the box have far less radius than the basket, which makes the contact force increase. Let's say you are working on a 600cc plastic rocket and you are about to tighten the primary with 110Nm... So, instead of taking any chances, but keeping up good mechanic traditions, you will not see me doing this in my workshop.

No Taffy, I haven't taken any further steps towards Ti-valves. I have measured up the #53, #08 and the #62 cam in a Cam Doctor stand. The accelerations are not that harsh, compared to other racing applications. I will loose 4-5 grams with my coming aluminium retainers (7075), and I'll settle with that for the first dyno tests.

I will have a company making a new cam for me with valve timing suitable for roadracing. Little more duration and max lift, and a little wider lobe separation. New pistons are ordered (14,0:1) which should work fine with the new cam. Fun! :D
 
Dr_C said:
There is no such thing as a qiuck answer. The Husaberg gearbox may very well survive this treatment, but please do not use this method in general! The gears inside the box have far less radius than the basket, which makes the contact force increase. Let's say you are working on a 600cc plastic rocket and you are about to tighten the primary with 110Nm... So, instead of taking any chances, but keeping up good mechanic traditions, you will not see me doing this in my workshop.

No Taffy, I haven't taken any further steps towards Ti-valves. I have measured up the #53, #08 and the #62 cam in a Cam Doctor stand. The accelerations are not that harsh, compared to other racing applications. I will loose 4-5 grams with my coming aluminium retainers (7075), and I'll settle with that for the first dyno tests.

I will have a company making a new cam for me with valve timing suitable for roadracing. Little more duration and max lift, and a little wider lobe separation. New pistons are ordered (14,0:1) which should work fine with the new cam. Fun! :D
Click to expand...

The answer was for what he asked for (the clutchnut) not the primary (that i hould not dream of using nothing but the segment-gear) :wink: witch with the gear ratio 29:78 = 2,69 to clutchbasket would as i said earlyer. stock engine running 60Nm on crank =160 Nm on inputshaft in gearbox. 120 Nm tightning on nut = lower force. But i can be wrong its just me, in my simple brain :)

One question. When using mesuring equipment like Cam Doctor. do you messure direct on the lobes or assembled in a head mesuring the true valvemotion after the rockerratio?

You should do billet rockers of 6AL-4V Titanium that can be heat treat to desired hardness. Mayby saving aditional weight.
:wink:
Regards
 

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