Removing the clutch basket

Husaberg

Help Support Husaberg:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
C

Crispin

Joined
Mar 4, 2008
Messages
538
Location
The Wirral, UK
Hi guys,

I've managed to fix the leaking water from the water pump weep hole, so that's good news...

However, in the process I must have knocked the kick start shaft, as it is now jammed solid :angry:

I want to have a go fixing this myself but understand I need to remove the clutch basket.

In the absence of any air tools, or welding equipment/ability to fabricate my own special tools, could you advise me on what I need in terms of tools to get the clutch basket off (any where can I buy them)?

I'm also assuming I only need to take the clutch basket off & not the inner part to enable me to fix the problem with the kick start?

Any help appreciated :D

Thanks

Crispin
 
Hi, crispin i did the same on my 04 550 and found a solution too removing the clutch basket on a ktm site so here goes, get a ratchet tie down and separate the ratchet off and wrap the other half around the inner through the slot on the outer basket and hook the hook too your frame ,straighten the lock washer 27mm socket and away ,watch out for the steppped washer and 2 half washers behind ........colin ps. i don't know if this method is kosher but it worked for me, if i was doing it regular though i'd get the right tool or make a tool out of a few clutch steels .
 
With the engine in the bike take of the clutch cover, take the bolts, springs, cap and all of the plates out. Bend the locking washer out of the way. Select a high gear, say 4th or 5th, get an assistant to put the back brake on as hard as they can, then undo the nut. No need for any special or expensive tools. Once the nut is undone, the inner and outer basket will come off.
 
Thanks guys, does anyone know where I can purchase a "clutch holder" from, i.e. part # 800.29.003.000 & the "gear wheel segment" part #800.29.004.000, as referenced in the 2004 Husaberg workshop manual?

I cannot find in the tools section of the Husaberg web site?

I really want to start doing more mechanical work on the bike, so think these will be a wise investment in the long term.

Many Thanks

Crispin
 
crispin , there's a nice little gearlocker from "motion pro" i got one it works well.......colin
 
3-4mm thick soft alloy works fine for jamming gears

clutch holder vise grips from Rkymountain are about $15 I think

I use an old burnt out clutch (thanks to motul 300V) with some pins through it
 
I broke down and baught an impact wrench, life is just a little easer with one.

If I could do it over I would buy a more expencive one. I got the cheapest one I could find.
 
Dewalt cordless impact driver. I cant recommend them highly enough. Dont forget the thick cable tie to stop it happening again!
 
if using a clutch holding tool make sure its a tidy one and has a good grip, i used one 'that would do' it slipped and took out a tang of outer basket.

that was on the 2006 450
 
Thanks guys, I'm going to try getting the official parts, I'll let u know how I get on.

Crispin
 
Hi guys,

Well, I've had a go removing the clutch basket, so far so good.... 8-O

I'm up to "C4" of the 2004 repair manual "Removing the inner clutch"

So this means I've removed the pressure piece, the push rod, clutch disks from the outer clutch hub, clutch sleeves from the inner hub & bent the lock washer flat to make the clutch nut accessible (still with me...?)

OK, I turn over the page & under the heading "Removing the inner clutch" the next line is "Unscrew the locking nut", followed by "Insert the clutch holder, lock the outer clutch hub with the gear wheel segment & loosen the nut".

Unfortunately it does not show or point to what the "locking nut" is, & I don't want to put excessive force trying to undo the clutch nut, if there is a locking nut I haven't spotted spoiling the party.

If anyone could help explain where to find & undo the locking nut, I'd really appreciate it, thanks :wink:

Crispin
 
the locking nut and "the nut" are the same thing and its the big one with the lock washer under it

so

"Unscrew the locking nut", is what you do

and

"Insert the clutch holder, lock the outer clutch hub with the gear wheel segment & loosen the nut (meaning locking nut)".

is how you do it.
 
Nice one Bushie!! Always pays to be careful, especially with my history of gorilla force mechanical work & x-threaded bolts....

It just seems to be out of sequence, i.e. "unscrew the bolt" as step 1, before you are told to set it up to be unscrewed & then told to "loosen it" again afterwards? Not very clear instructions are they :?

Cheers pal

Crispin
 
Hi chaps,

Well, unbelievably.... I've got the Berg back together, fires up no problem, and have performed the "acid test" of placing into & out of gear to test the clutch (obviously), and it WORKS!! :bounce3:

I can't believe it, very satisfying to hear her run after shes literally been in so many bits in the garage beforehand.

Anyway, only thing I'm noticing is a bit of back firing & conking out when ticking over.

Now I know I can adjust the idler screw to prevent the stalling, however, I wonder if these symptoms suggest a timing issue???

I was careful to align the idler shaft & primary pinion gear punch marks, but perhaps when fitting the outer clutch hub I've adjusted gears independently to get the fit, and in doing so offset the timing??

Does this seem plausible :?: Has anyone experienced similar :?:

Cheers mi dears :)

Crispin
 
Hi all, just popping this back on the top of the front page.

If anyone has gone any advice, I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks a lot :cheers:

Crispin
 
Hi Crispin,

Very hard to tell I beleive. Min was one tooth out and would still run, but was not a good starter. Now, if you dont't know for sure that timing is ok, it will haunt you forever, so there is only one way to find out....... side cover off again. SORRY ! But if you are sure you got the cam/chain right you dont have to check that part again... just if the 3 marks are ok ....

So for piece of mind.......

Good luck,

Anders, DK
 
Thanks Anders :thumbup:

I think ur spot on there. It will haunt me & I cannot be sure.... :cry:

Also, does seem a little more difficult to get going than before...

Ah well... it's giving me plenty of experience on the clutch side of the engine!!

More oil, coolant & possibly gaskets please Mr shop keeper

Thanks again Anders

Crispin
 
Hi everyone, well Anders' diagnosis was perfect. The punch marks were out by one tooth!!

Adjusted & she fires up sweet as a nut, runs perfect & clutch etc is working a treat.

I love this forum! :mrgreen:

So all, for info, if ever you bike is a ***** to start, may be worth considering checking the alignment of the punch marks between the timing chain gear & the crank shaft gear. Just like Anders' bike, mine was one tooth out. Still started, would run etc, but was a bit of snarling, farting pig, that was temperamental & ****** to start.

Thanks to all for the advice I've received!! :cheers:

Cheers

Crispin
 
Good work. There is something to be said for photographing your work before you start, or just reading the manual, it has saved my arse plenty of times. There should be something manditory when you sign up that you HAVE to read it.
 

Similar threads

o6550
550 Kickstarter issues during reassembly
Replies
11
Views
906
o6550
o6550
o6550
2006 fe550e - New valve spring kit without removing the head?
Replies
6
Views
677
o6550
o6550
F
FE570 low idle issue, outside of the usual suspects! (I think)
Replies
2
Views
450
AussieBlue
A
A
FS570 wire looming part missing?
Replies
4
Views
559
eeazye
E
H
Filter filter split at seam
Replies
0
Views
389
Haskell
H

Register CTA

Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.

Recent Discussions

Recent Discussions

Back
Top