Pop and stalls

Went to change the oil today. The Idle has dropped some since the last ride a few weeks
ago. Low enough to stall at idle. Turned up the idle some and rode it around the neighborhood with no more issues there. Have determined im due for a valve check this week before the next ride just to make sure they are in spec.
The next peculiar thing I am experiancing is the weep hole.
It started mildly around 20hrs with oil. Up unti around 100hrs when it started to let coolant by also. Now at 112 hrs it seems to be mainly coolant. And it might be letting out
more than I would want. The orangeberg kit may come soon. I lost around 2 ounces
coolant on a hot ride which is not too unusual but I had taken a look at the driping coming out and was surprised. It might be leaking the same it's just that Im not used to looking at it leaking. I had never really paid attention until after the ride and then looking at the marks the oil had made

Pollo

pollo said:

Went to change the oil today. The Idle has dropped some since the last ride a few weeks
ago. Low enough to stall at idle. Turned up the idle some and rode it around the neighborhood with no more issues there. Have determined im due for a valve check this week before the next ride just to make sure they are in spec.
The next peculiar thing I am experiancing is the weep hole.
It started mildly around 20hrs with oil. Up unti around 100hrs when it started to let coolant by also. Now at 112 hrs it seems to be mainly coolant. And it might be letting out
more than I would want. The orangeberg kit may come soon. I lost around 2 ounces
coolant on a hot ride which is not too unusual but I had taken a look at the driping coming out and was surprised. It might be leaking the same it's just that Im not used to looking at it leaking. I had never really paid attention until after the ride and then looking at the marks the oil had made

Pollo

Click to expand...

HI Pollo,

For starters, the Orangeberg kit does not do anything with water pump seal as it relates to coolant, you will still use the stock seal for coolant sealing. The Orangeberg kit DOES fix any oil leakage from the weephole. Anytime you pull the side cover ALWAYS replace the little O ring on the water pump shaft, as that is the seal for the inner race of the water pump bearing.

And, anytime you put the side cover back on, be sure and cover the circlip groove for the impeller with a wrap of electrical tape to protect the water pump seal (the orangeberg kit comes with a little piece of heat shrink for this), and be sure and put some grease on the inner race of the water pump bearing and on the little O ring itself. And take your time installing the side cover, the little O ring is easily damage so you just need to rock it back and forth in a Z pattern.

The Orangeberg kit uses a different oil seal and bearing from stock and is very effective.

If you've got 112 hours out of the stock water pump seal you're doing pretty good.

Does it only leak from the weep hole when it get's hot? If it does, you could try going to Evans coolant and it probably won't leak anymore since evans in basically zero pressure.

If your valves check good, then your low idle problem might just be that the carb needs a thorough cleaning. Is there any oil pooled in the rear carb boot? You'll be amazed at how much junk collects in the float bowl too, this comes from the carb vents themselves pulling in the finest dirt, which is really the main cause of your valve wear.

Hope this helps,

RE: Re: Pop and stalls

Thanks Dale,
Yes it only leaks when its hot. Thanks for the info. I probably will need to get a waterpump seal.
I'll have it done at the dealer. I know about this area being difficult to do. I've heard of the stories here.
Anyway I just got done setting the valves at 1/6 out .
Here's what's up. I set them at around 100hrs then had my jetting done at the Husaberg dealer at 103hrs. Jetting has been great
and no problems. The dealer had also replaced my valve cover gaskets which I thought was intersting. He didn't charge
forvalve adjust but now I understand that he did them of his own free will.
Today at 112hrs I found them all at 1/4 or more out. One looked llike it was approaching 1/3.
I know that this wasn't me. I have ben in there every 15 to 20 and never that far off.
Bike runs great again. No stalling.

Pollo

Right on, glad it's running as it should again!

Yes, the water pump seals are not the easiest thing to do, but, not that hard. You just need to have a good drift to install it. I use a 1" diameter piece of round aluminum bar stock, about 12" long, and tap that with a small hammer to get the seal in. The hard part about putting in the seal is having it turn on you, but, with the aluminum it allows the steel outer of the seal to kind of bite into the aluminum and it won't get cattywompus on you. And you just need to use a little care and patience in getting the old one out so you don't gouge the case where the steel outer seats.

I've seen your handy work so I know you have what it takes to do it. But nice thing about having a dealer do it, is that if it leaks you just take it back!!

Yes, my thoughts also. If it leaks, take it back.
The bike ran well as I exected after valve adjust. The idle rose back up after
warming up and I had to turn it back down again.
It just goes to show how well they will run, but they need to be close to spec.

Another interesting point I might make.
When the hole was weeping oil I could have used the Orangeberg kit.
By now I don't see any oil, just coolant. How did it cure itself from an oil
leak and resort to a coolant leak? Or how did the waterpump seal leak end up healing
the oil leak? Interesting. So now after 80+ hours of oil weeping I end up not needing
the Orangeberg kit. Not yet anyway. Now its waterpump seal.

pollo said:

Another interesting point I might make.
When the hole was weeping oil I could have used the Orangeberg kit.
By now I don't see any oil, just coolant. How did it cure itself from an oil
leak and resort to a coolant leak? Or how did the waterpump seal leak end up healing
the oil leak? Interesting. So now after 80+ hours of oil weeping I end up not needing
the Orangeberg kit. Not yet anyway. Now its waterpump seal.

Click to expand...

If you happened to overfill with oil and the seal was marginal it will leak. If you put the oil at the correct level on subsequent changes it will stop leaking.

i bet the cam chain is nearly fully stretched by now. suggest you remove the 'zorst and then the centre tensioner bolt, then undo the two that hold it in and you'll see how many clicks you have left. i bet there are none! get an IWIS everytime!

regards

Taffy

I have already planned on checking the cam chain around 120hrs. From what I have heard around here
and the way I take care of my bike I should still have at least 6 clicks left Im guessing by now.
There's even an 07 650 that had 7 clicks at 150 hrs.

regards

Pollo

Funny thing about the Oil is I just changed mine, kept leaning the bike over until the oil stopped coming about.

Kicked the bike over 20 times, oil splattered out, then leaned it over again.

Kicked it over 20 more times, same thing until nothing else came out.

Put in exactly 850ml of oil in her, went for a 20km ride with a 100mph pull and usually running about 60-65mph

I got oil running out of the weep hole does not look like much, its dark and looks like a resin must be the oil

I have been filling the coolant near the top. I have just read about only filling 10mm over the fins to lessen
the pressure.
If I do this now will I lessen my coolant leak from the weep hole?
I keep filling it up after a ride after it drops down to the fins.
If I fill it 10mm above maybe it will lessen the leak?
In fact I was told this when I bought the bike about the level, but I didnt
listen

Pollo

get a new seal. all you need to do is find the right tool to go through the old one and then rip it out like a welk. then tap the new one in. 10 minutes....

regards

Taffy

I have heard of so many problems here with installing this waterpump seal that
I don't know if I want to do it.
The leak that doesn't stop from around or behind the new seal.
Putting the cover back on and damaging the O- ring because the cover wasn't
twisted or tilted on just right.
Wrapping the shaft with tape to protect the O- Ring
And there's more.
I think I will pay to have it done.
I'm sure they have dealt with them before.

Pollo

i just did a thread on the sprague and in it i explain i had the sidecover off and on over 10-14 times altogether. same gasket, same w/p seal. i used no lubricants, tapes or condoms. just keep your eye on it and you can pull it off just right time after time. i had to pull so hard the spring pinged out at least half those times.

YOU BOYS NEED TO KEEP THE SEAL CENTRAL TO THE POST AND WORRY ABOUT NOTHING ELSE AT THAT MOMENT BUT CENTRALISATION.

regards

Taffy

Here's an update on the coolant issue.
Went to Big Bear this weekend to ride with a friend. I took some extra coolant in the
backpack in case I had a problem. We headed north into Holcolm valley for some trails.
After around 10 miles of mostly fireroads we got some tight single track which was cool
for a few more miles. We then talked to some guy there who directed us towards the
John Bull trail. I had heard of this trail before and new it was if not the most difficult trail
up there at least one of them. It is a triple black diamond trail so it's nice to get a warning
anyway. We headed up there because we don't usuallyturn down a challange.
We headed up towards the east side and when you actually get to the knarly stuff let me tell
you, you know it.
The rocks and boulders start abruptly from that side. We stopped right there to check it out.
OK, so I wasn't so sure I wanted a part of it , but once Jim mentioned that I could just walk
it around and over some of the rocks and it might get better around the corner I decided
to go for it.
05 650 with 15/47 gearing mind you. So I began riding the boulders, clutching it and keeping
momentum. And it keeps going for a while. Seems like a 1/4 mile of boulder riding switch backs
heading up the mountain. I kept it going. Jim was behind me and had 2 or 3 stop and starts.
I got within 1 boulder from a smooth platau when I had to stop because of a broken down jeep.
Thats when my bike spewed out some coolant from the overflow. The jeep had broken his front
driveshaft off. So I started it and clutch walked it up and around the rock, shut it off and it
spewed again. I guess I had gotten it a little hot huh? Ilet it cool down for a few after Jim
caught up and figured I really didn't loose much. So instead of waiting so I could take the cap off we
continued.
Coming down the westerly side was easier of course. I think it was westerly. I think coming up that side
would be easier also. Even though it does have some big rocks, it has more sections for pause
than the continuous east side which is all or nothing.
So anyway, when we got back I still had my usual weephole oil and coolant marks from the
compromised seals but the total loss of coolant along with the overflow loss was 3 ounces.
Here's what I did when I got home. I now have a custom overflow bottle. It is a small, maybe
5 ounce oil test bottle I got from work. It is ziptied like I have seen here under the radiator.
Second. I will get a new radiator cap just to be sure it operates at the right temp. The rubber
under my 2 1/2 year old cap had sliped a little when I took it off.
Well, thats it. Oil looks the same level also and I think I will let the waterpump seal go a
little longer.

Pollo

Really thinking about going 15/48 from the 15/47 .
Especially on a trail like John Bull. Check out You Tube for John Bull trail.
The 48 will give me more time to think while tractoring in first. Im
moving a little too fast in the real tights and clutching more than I should.

Pollo

I've ended up happy with 15/49 after using 15/47 for some time. Closes up the gears and means 2nd is more useful with less clutch than before.

I explain to people that the bike was too fast before so I put lower gearing on to slow it down. Amazing how many believe me!

Steve