overheating
- Thread starter pineman
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I richened up my pilot jet before it was even started. Then before I rode it, I added a heat transfer agent to the coolant. I prefer Redline Water Wetter. The stuff is in all of my water cooled engines as it does what it says it does. So far, no boil overs. You may want to give that type of additive a try.
Barry
Barry
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can't agree barry about the jetting.
all the '04's that arrived in the UK in november overheated and boiled up. they were doing it everywhere. i believe the ignition (first time use of kokusan) is or was to blame.
here is the e-mail addy of my friend chris ginn, chris will i'm sure tell you what problems he has had in a year of ownership of the FE450e.
[email protected]
he takes a long while to answer EM's because nobody talks to him apparently!
i've never heard of changing the fuel screw? changing the PAJ to a PAS yes. tell me more barry.
regards
Taffy
all the '04's that arrived in the UK in november overheated and boiled up. they were doing it everywhere. i believe the ignition (first time use of kokusan) is or was to blame.
here is the e-mail addy of my friend chris ginn, chris will i'm sure tell you what problems he has had in a year of ownership of the FE450e.
[email protected]
he takes a long while to answer EM's because nobody talks to him apparently!
i've never heard of changing the fuel screw? changing the PAJ to a PAS yes. tell me more barry.
regards
Taffy
03/04 Owners.
I suggest that you contact your local Husaberg dealer and enquuire about the specifc mods that can be carried out to the engine cases to assist in reducing the "running hot" concern. I have heard that bikes operating in high ambient temps and slow speed, hard working conditions can run hot. This is not unique to the Bergs as i have seen WR450s and CRF450s boil long before a Berg on the same given hill.
My understanding is that this is not a warranty repair as it is not a design issue nor an issue relating to faulty manafacturing/workmanship.
I suggest that you contact your local Husaberg dealer and enquuire about the specifc mods that can be carried out to the engine cases to assist in reducing the "running hot" concern. I have heard that bikes operating in high ambient temps and slow speed, hard working conditions can run hot. This is not unique to the Bergs as i have seen WR450s and CRF450s boil long before a Berg on the same given hill.
My understanding is that this is not a warranty repair as it is not a design issue nor an issue relating to faulty manafacturing/workmanship.
Taffy said:
Don't think there is a fuel screw at all on the american models and that's why that came up. Usually they don't have one or it's hidden beind a plate that has to be drilled out.
This to make road legal engines more difficult to change in a way that violates enviromental laws.
Know this problem as we work a lot on american imports over here.
If it's the same on the Husas I don't know but I strongly suspect it is.
Daniel
berger
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There is a fuel mixture screw on the bottom of the carb that is very hard to get to. There are a couple of aftermarket companys making longer screws with a knurled knob on them to make them readily acccesible. I opted for the Ty Davis one. http://www.ziptyracing.com/display/eCom ... 110&order=
well here's what i found on my 04 450 fe running hot. the factory has these bikes jetted way to lean. here's the jetting i found in the bike 42 pilot went to 52 fuel screw 2 out needle left stock but 2 from top way to lean went to middle main 178 went to 180. huge torque gains and top end no more over heating this jetting should be done before anybody rides this bike. the pilot circut is probably to rich but will test further. 
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- Sodaville, Oregon, USA
Taffy,
I admit it, I am not a "carby guy" by the stretch of anybodys imagination. So therefore I don't know the proper name(s) for the jets I changed. But I did put in bigger "little brass thingies with tiny holes in 'em that screw into the aluminum gizmo-a-gig with the black strings hanging off it"; and added the transfer agent. No overheating in my bikes. Yet.
I admit it, I am not a "carby guy" by the stretch of anybodys imagination. So therefore I don't know the proper name(s) for the jets I changed. But I did put in bigger "little brass thingies with tiny holes in 'em that screw into the aluminum gizmo-a-gig with the black strings hanging off it"; and added the transfer agent. No overheating in my bikes. Yet.
general
Barry
I just read your thread on the first outing on your 04 550 and you talked about a steering stabilizer got more info on this. My Husaberg dealer says GPR doesn't make on and I here alot of guys on this site have one. My 04 450 does shake its head like yours. Also that mid life weight gain or aquired taste for beer however you look at it is my reality as well and the heavier springs are some thing I was thinking about to, but the 48's in forks seems real stiff, is stock 46.
Barry
I just read your thread on the first outing on your 04 550 and you talked about a steering stabilizer got more info on this. My Husaberg dealer says GPR doesn't make on and I here alot of guys on this site have one. My 04 450 does shake its head like yours. Also that mid life weight gain or aquired taste for beer however you look at it is my reality as well and the heavier springs are some thing I was thinking about to, but the 48's in forks seems real stiff, is stock 46.
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Pineman,
I am very pleased with the 48 fronts and PDS8 rear spring rates. I actually got within the setup window for static sag with these springs! I haven't rode the bike enough yet to break in either end, but for my lard tail 270lbs) it is nice and plush. I am still fiddling with the compression and rebound settings but I am really pleased with the setup as it is. It can only get better.
The shaking I described has only occurred on that one speed run on asphalt- the digital tattle tail said 90+mph max speed. The shaking started somewhere over 85, as that was the last time I dared look down. All other times I ride in the dirt and rarely exceed 65; and I haven't noticed any shaking. I don't like going much faster because it hurts too much when I stop abruptly (crash). So I am not going to worry about a stabilizer at this time.
But if the GPR doesn't fit (KTM unit match up?), try the Scotts. Here is a URL:
http://www.scottsonline.com/indexmain.html
And there also is the WER unit:
http://www.werproducts.net/
I've got a Scotts unit on my '98, and had a WER on my 550 KTM. Both work just fine. I guess it is a matter of personal preference.
I am very pleased with the 48 fronts and PDS8 rear spring rates. I actually got within the setup window for static sag with these springs! I haven't rode the bike enough yet to break in either end, but for my lard tail 270lbs) it is nice and plush. I am still fiddling with the compression and rebound settings but I am really pleased with the setup as it is. It can only get better.
The shaking I described has only occurred on that one speed run on asphalt- the digital tattle tail said 90+mph max speed. The shaking started somewhere over 85, as that was the last time I dared look down. All other times I ride in the dirt and rarely exceed 65; and I haven't noticed any shaking. I don't like going much faster because it hurts too much when I stop abruptly (crash). So I am not going to worry about a stabilizer at this time.
But if the GPR doesn't fit (KTM unit match up?), try the Scotts. Here is a URL:
http://www.scottsonline.com/indexmain.html
And there also is the WER unit:
http://www.werproducts.net/
I've got a Scotts unit on my '98, and had a WER on my 550 KTM. Both work just fine. I guess it is a matter of personal preference.
Pineman
The GPR intended for the KTM will work with a spacer underneath, say four 14mm washers. For my six days bike, for a more stable mounting, I used the appropriate length of 5/16 X 1 aluminum flat bar. You need to space it up and above the steering stem nut. The pin may be a little short, so when you order see if they can or will supply with a little longer one for you.
Ktm just released an adjustable fuel screw. It has better hardening than others. I have heard of lots of other brands breaking the tip off in the orfice, causing a large amount of grief.
Best of luck
Fryguy
The GPR intended for the KTM will work with a spacer underneath, say four 14mm washers. For my six days bike, for a more stable mounting, I used the appropriate length of 5/16 X 1 aluminum flat bar. You need to space it up and above the steering stem nut. The pin may be a little short, so when you order see if they can or will supply with a little longer one for you.
Ktm just released an adjustable fuel screw. It has better hardening than others. I have heard of lots of other brands breaking the tip off in the orfice, causing a large amount of grief.
Best of luck
Fryguy
A likely cause for the high speed "shaking" is out of balance wheels. If either or both of your wheels have only a single rim lock, the wheels will be way out of balance. This invariably leads to shaking, weaving and instability at high speeds on smooth surfaces.
In the owners manual it lists the stock or green jetting which comes in your bike, and then it lists the "closed course" jetting. I put in the closed course jetting before even riding the bike, and a Ty Davis fuel adjustment screw.
Also, @ 7500' the water or coolant in your enging will be much more likely to boil. On my bike, I removed the stock coolant and flushed the system and put Engine Ice coolant in. It is what the Forest Service says you must run, b/c it's Propylene glycol instead of Ethylene Glycol, which is not quite as poisonous. This came about b/c some forest service vehicle over heated, puked the green stuff out, and some condor came along and drank the stuff and kacked over.
Further, if it is hot, the actual altitude or density altitude will be much higher than 7500'. When riding up at Kennedy Meadows a year ago, I used my flight slide rule and figured out that instead of 8400', it was actually like 12,500 with 90 degree temps. At that density altitude, things evaporate much more quickly. Remember how so many vehicles would vapor lock at high altitudes in the summer? And that means that the temperature at which water boils will be lower.
Hope this helps
Also, @ 7500' the water or coolant in your enging will be much more likely to boil. On my bike, I removed the stock coolant and flushed the system and put Engine Ice coolant in. It is what the Forest Service says you must run, b/c it's Propylene glycol instead of Ethylene Glycol, which is not quite as poisonous. This came about b/c some forest service vehicle over heated, puked the green stuff out, and some condor came along and drank the stuff and kacked over.
Further, if it is hot, the actual altitude or density altitude will be much higher than 7500'. When riding up at Kennedy Meadows a year ago, I used my flight slide rule and figured out that instead of 8400', it was actually like 12,500 with 90 degree temps. At that density altitude, things evaporate much more quickly. Remember how so many vehicles would vapor lock at high altitudes in the summer? And that means that the temperature at which water boils will be lower.
Hope this helps
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