One leak... change both?

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boheme

Joined
May 2, 2005
Messages
137
Location
North of Stockholm, Sweden
Hallo there fellow riders!

One of my front forks are leaking, what´s your opinion... should I change both anyway?

When I took the fork apart I found out that both the supportrings weren´t very straight anymore.... I know that they should be flat, and now needs replacing, but why do they become bent?

And another question... how do you clean the inside of the fork and with what? I´ve heard that you could do it with diesel.. but what do you say?


ok, hoping for some answers.

/Rikard
 
You need to change the fork seals, yes, and both of them because they are sold in pairs anyway.
 
boheme said:
Hallo there fellow riders!

One of my front forks are leaking, what´s your opinion... should I change both anyway?

When I took the fork apart I found out that both the supportrings weren´t very straight anymore.... I know that they should be flat, and now needs replacing, but why do they become bent?

And another question... how do you clean the inside of the fork and with what? I´ve heard that you could do it with diesel.. but what do you say?


ok, hoping for some answers.

/Rikard
Click to expand...
Those rings usually get bent during disassembly when you slide-hammer the forks apart. You can gently tap them back flat and they will be fine. No need to buy new ones. I guess diesel wouldn't hurt, but any mild commercial cleaner/degreaser should work fine.
 
RE: Re: One leak... change both?

Boheme

agree with john over the rings. IT IS DISASSEMBLY. however i put them in the vice and pinch/rotate/pinch/rotate, this will get them VERY flat.

secondly
gunk is fine just finish with paper towel and dry thoroughly. use the gunk on the chrome leg with it held at 45 degrees. poor it along and down the leg like you are christening a babies head.

this will show spikes in the gunk which indicates a chip. get rid of the chip with a chisel sharpener's block/stone.

if the seals are recent, change just the one you need. i buy mine individually. however, in order not to appear mad to your dealer - buy two and keep one on the shelf.

regards

Taffy
 
oh, my god.....!?! Gunk!?! Sounds like some jellybean alien to me... but what is it?

I guess that you all dissassemble the fork at both rebound and compressionside?

Otherwise it would be hard to use papertowels to dry with... or do you just clean the outside...?

At this point I´ve just released the top, reboundside, and broken the fork into two pieces so that I can change seals... I guess it´s hard to clean it good if you don´t open up the compressionside too....

Like the cheapskate I am... I will only change the bad seal..

/Rikard
 
ok, ok just wash the chrome tube but i also always clean the inside of the tubes. i don't always remove the shim stacks etc for a simple clean.

remember to clean the seal area and bushes etc.

obvious stuff really.

regards

Taffy
 
With what (gunk? :D ) do you clean the inside? and...hmmm. how..?

One thing that I noticed when I try to put on the new seal was that it wanted to float up... hmmm...
like it was vacuum between that one and the supportring/bushing?!?

I guess it´s good, cause then it won´t leak, but is this common?
Has anyone else noticed something like this...

And since the old, not leaking seal that I just put back on, didn´t act like this, the question raises... will that leak immediatly or very soon?

Ok Taffy, I know that I´ll know that very soon! But since I´m on writing I could as well ask... couldn´t I?

Ok, and my other question:

I read at the K-talksite, by the way, great reading Taffy, and saw that the former owner of my bike had done one of the basic mods... taken away the alu spacer and one bushing.

My question is.... what do that mod do?

Thanks for your help.

/Rikard
 
boheme said:
With what (gunk? :D ) do you clean the inside? and...hmmm. how..?



Ok, and my other question:

I read at the K-talksite, by the way, great reading Taffy, and saw that the former owner of my bike had done one of the basic mods... taken away the alu spacer and one bushing.

My question is.... what do that mod do?

Thanks for your help.

/Rikard
Click to expand...

The 3rd bushing removal only applied to the 2004, I think, fork. After that, KTM went back to the standard two-bushing set up it used before and since, also. The removal of the third bushing took some of the harshness out the fork, and improved small bump compliance. I don't know if Husaberg had the same fork in 2004 or not.

P.S: If you put what bike(s) you own in your signature, it makes it easy to see what year/model you are talking about.
 
agree with john and would also add that the good seal could go on for a very long time whilst if you don't check for chips in the chrome of the 'bad' leg, you may have another seal go very soon!

remember to use loctite and to check the nuts top and bottom when the bike is back on it's wheels...

the seal shouldn't move anywhere? vacuum or not. although your english is very good i don't quite follow you there!

if you want to check you have everythging in the right order - check the photo in the doc with everything on the chrome leg ready to go.

hope this helps

Taffy
 
Sorry,Johnf3, I´ll try to make a good signature.
The bike is a Husa Fe501e 2001.

The thing was, taffy, that when I try to push the new seal down into the fork with the old seal... it felt like resistance from behind the new seal...like an airbag.... like air was inbetween the new seal and the supportring/bushing....

don´t know if that made more sense but I gave it a try.

But about the locktite... should I locktite the Forkcaps? The manual says nothing like that... just tourqe them to 25nm... but if you say so I´ll do so...

And I haven´t opened up the compressionside so that nut won´t be a problem...

All I got left to do now is to fill the right amount of forkfluid, measure the airgap, put in the spring and put the forkcaps back on... so do I need to locktite these or something else on the way?

And by the way, anyone ... and Taffy... the manual mentions that when you fill the fork with fluid you should be aware of the 4 holes... the fluid must be over the 4 holes in the inner tube... .... and then in the end it should be under... like 2.5cm under the 4 holes... the problem is that I can not find any holes... maybe two in the innertube but not four...

anyone could explain?

And yes... at www.smackovermotorsports.com you can download a manual for the 43 WP Fork... maybe something for the doc or the downloadsection... but what do I know...

/Rikard
 
No locktite on the fork caps. When you tighten the top triple clamp pinch bolts, they hold the fork caps in place.

As far as the oil/holes being covered, just keep the oil at the top of the tube while you are filling/bleeding the cartridge. After you do that, remove the extra oil to where you want the level to be.
 
boheme

i think we've shared files with smackover before now.

i meant the nuts on the shim stacks so you don't need loctite on the other ones. just wasn't sure if you were going for the complete strip.

the seals like to come back up and out so i understand what you mean now. in order to get the new seals right in you need to nearly lose the old seals as well. there will only be 3-4mm of the old broken one showing. pays leave a little place where you can get an electrician's screwdriver underneath and flick it out.

regards

Taffy
 
Many thanks to both of you!

I wish that I someday could help someone else like you guys always helps out!

Big T!!!

Ok, so the tripleclamp tightens the forkcaps further....ok...

And as far as the hole goes... keep the tube full! Thanks...i don´t dare say bulletproof... oh, **** I just did... 8)

And taffy... the new seal thing... I did exactly as you described it and now I know it´s a common thing too... but the new seal did need some fighting... :evil:

OK! I´ll let you hear from me as soon as the forks are ready...

/Rikard
 
now the forks are filled with oil... and a airgap of 125 mm...

Tomorrow I fil put them back on the bike and give them a test.


we´ll see if I´ve done things right!

If I´ve gotten air into the fork while filling them with oil.... How would I notice that?

When I filled the forks with oil the piston moved even through its range... wouldn´t I notice there if I´ve had gotten air into the forks?

/Rikard
 
boheme said:
now the forks are filled with oil... and a airgap of 125 mm...

Tomorrow I fil put them back on the bike and give them a test.


we´ll see if I´ve done things right!

If I´ve gotten air into the fork while filling them with oil.... How would I notice that?

When I filled the forks with oil the piston moved even through its range... wouldn´t I notice there if I´ve had gotten air into the forks?

/Rikard
Click to expand...

Sounds like you got all the air bled out.
 
when filling with oil, pull the cartridge rod up and down about three times. if you had a complete stripdown it will slip easy/hard/easy due to air/oil/air. by the third time it's all oil. aeration of oil? not a consideration.... forget this. it's unlikely to happen to any degree.

regards

taffy
 
If your seals are still giving you a problem, give me a call at 209-938-9726

Rob
 
Was that meant for me?

As far as I get it I have worked them out... But a nice Californiaconversation can never be wrong! :) Especially now whith a cold and snowy Sweden.

Who knows maybe one day you´ve got me on the line...

Anyway, if it was meant for me, thanks...


/Rikard
 
despite the fact that we non-yanks make up 50% of the membership, all members are taken to come from the states. it just goes with the territory!

kaboom does synergy seals and i've heard that they're jolly, jolly good.

regards

Taffy
 

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