Old/new husaberg owner needs help with electricity/wires.

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Joined
Aug 18, 2014
Messages
15
Location
Finland
Hello.
I just bought again husaberg 650 2006, but there is couple of problems to be solved. One of previous owners has removed the battery and starter and i want to install those back. Second problem is that there is no signs of life in any of lights or in speedo, but engine runs fine if u can start it.. (Takes some time to get used to that kick start).
Biggest problem is those lights/speedo ofc, because i cant really ride with the bike without those on the street. Do you have any idea where i should start looking for the solution?
I will probably today take the tank off and check the valve clearances, I will also check if I can see anything special in the wires under the tank.

Usually when kick starting engine "promises" but doesn't start, thats why im bit suspicious about those valve clearances.
 
take the tank off.
get a wiring diagram.
become familiar like it is your hand with the electrics.

Taffy
 
Okay, now i have measured basic wires which come from stator/generator. Resistances in those wires was inside given values except white/yellow, didn't really give anything, with 20k ohm setting it gave something like 18, but these measurements were taken in 10C temperature, not in 20C like there is in the workshop manual.
Engine on i didn't really get any DC from those yellow or white wires(0.1V), but those(atleast other one, I dont remember color?) gave 14V AC on idle, measurements taken after voltage regulator from factory fan plug were 0.1 V DC and 2.4V AC. So is my voltage regulator broken? Is there anyway to measure it?
I have also read about that battery starter removal and people have suggested to put somekind of condensator, or otherwise the voltage regulator might not be happy. In mine bike there isn't anykind of condensators.

Should those generator wires be measured with DC or AC setting?
 
I have studied wiring diagram a bit now and im wondering that can i just take the voltage regulator off when bike is idling? Should the lights then light up? Is this technique safe for speedo and cdi, ofc im not going to give it any gas only idling.
 
Update. I changed the voltage regulator, but i didn't help anything. Started to wonder could this be problem with grounding? One morning when I started the bike speedo lighted up but after couple of seconds it went back to black and this was with the old voltage regulator.
Where does this bike normally ground its electricity, i assume that not trough voltage regulator metal body because i have already sanded that surface without any effect and i do not get any resistance values with multimeter from the regulator wires--housing of the regulator.

What comes to engine I adjusted valve clearances with that 1/6 turn nut style and those should be now good. Problem is that the idle when the bike is "cold"(its now 30c outside) idle is really low and engine often wants to stall and with choke on rpms are really high probably aprox 4k and the whole neighborhood wakes up when I leave to work at 5am. :D When I can finally take the choke off and start riding there is a lot of back firing when engine braking (lean mixture?) and when the engine gets hot the idle rises bit too high. If i turn mixture screw more open the engine becomes really hard to kick start as the kick start lever becomes really stiff. Mixture screw is now about 2 1/4 turns open, im not 100% sure about that because it was my brother who turned the screw as I kept kick starting the bike..

E: My brother doesn't want to touch to that kickstart lever because he broke his ankle with previous husaberg 650fsc when he tried to kickstart it with safety boots as "protection".:D But ofc I am bit nervous when kickstarting with sandals like i did just moment ago.
 
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Have you checked your plug burn?
What size pilot are you running?
Is the accelerator pump working?
Popping out the exhaust when chopping the throttle can be lean or also can be an exhaust leak (especially up near the head)

I don't know what the Berg community does, but with the ktm's we use to up the size of the pilot jets on the fcr carbs. Usually here they were way to lean in that area.
 
Thanks for replying, thats why I "double checked" front bulb.

Actually low beam was burnt, couldn't be seen with eye but multimeter showed that there was atleast one problem. Same time i sprayed wd40 into regulator connection and unscrewed and sprayed wd40 to grounding point next to regulator.
Now atleast front light burns at the moment, but tail light (led) doesn't light up, so i quess that every bulb has been burnt in this bike due to that faulty voltage regulator.
Are those led lights repairable?

Battery was ofc empty at this point but it started to charge when I connected it to charger.

Main jet is 160, idle jet 45 and choke jet 85.
You are right about exhaust leak, there is some exhaust leaks because of the stock spark arrestor silencer, im about to order replica acrapovic silencer from aliexpress when I get more money(student life..). Accelertor pump is working fine I checked it 2 weeks ago when I took the carburator off so I could check sizing of the jets.
 
PJ is very rich.

MJ is borderline spot on or lean.

all depends on the needle clip.

all depends on wher the MJ is and if the air jets in the front face under the Air Filter Adapter are standard at 100 + 200 respectively.

Taffy
 
Hmm, maybe I disassemble again the carburetor next weekend. I also need to check that needle valve with measuring pump, because it looked like it was a bit on the edge does it work as planned but carburetor isn't flooding to ground so I guess it works.

If the battery is broken and it is broken, (still accepts charging with charger), should there be still around 14V in that cooling fan ye-re/br connector when engine is on? Or is it possible that the battery takes all the charging power from that DC system. If I keep that battery connected to charger it charges around 9-11V and after few hours it will drop to 6V. I dont really need that battery atm, but flashers (brake light?) work with DC and those are nice when driving in the city.
 
I disassembled carburetor during last weekend, cleaned it and measured jets.
Main jet 160
Idle jet 45
Choke jet 85
Needle OBEKR 3 position from top
Idle air jet 100
Main air jet 200

Idle jet was blocked and i cleaned it with compressed air, then I started to think that maybe it was only gasoline in the jet. I should have first try just blowing myself that...

Again weather is warm and bike barely idles now when engine isn't fully warmed up, but weather will get colder soon and the problems probably start again. Also when bike is idling it is making that "tsuptsup" sound from the exhaust (like tiny backfiring) and same with choke on.

What comes to the battery I replaced the battery with another one and looks like bike isn't charging at all. Any idea where I should start looking solution for this problem?
 
often the starter solenoid (relay) is from the wrong bike. it has to be the right one and it is difficult to explain here. this controls the charge back to the battery.

set the PS on the carb for best idle and then reduce the idle.

Taffy
 
you can't really. you need a meticuloous description of the correct one relayed to you.

there are avbout 20 of them and yet the 2003-2008 4-pin connector wiring combination is "what it is". I have them as an after market item for about $25 i think it is?

Taffy
 

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