oil pressure husa fs 570

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Joined
Apr 20, 2012
Messages
5
Hello, I'm new here. First I would like to introduce myself.( and excuse me if there are some bad words in my English)
I'm from Belgium and 33 years old and I drive a husaberg fs 570.
Now here is my problem, After I had some play on my con bearings (some people said I used the wrong engine oil, "Elf 10w50)
The piston, conrad, bearings,oilpump, ... had to be replaced :evil: . after assembling the engine drove for 10 km and the intake rockerarm had to be replaced aswell, the cause was no oil to the rockerarm. 8O
Now I have replaced it all and checked the oil pressure. Conclussion, the first time I put on the engine I had 1bar or +/- 12psi. not bad I thought, but when I increassed the engine speed I saw that the pressure dropped to 0 psi :?
So I checked everything and still I don't have any pressure.
Now I was wondering if someone had this problem yet, or if someone can give me some help with it.
Greetzzz
 
If you have pressure with low rpm, but no pressure with high rpm, then the pump must be cavitating.
this can be caused by the pump sucking air (installation error?) or a restriction in the suction line (blockage).
Did you clean the mesh filter screen near the drain plug?
 
can't agree with that conclusion.

more likely that a piece of debris is blocking the oilway and the pressure release valve is opening and then all your oil goes away there.

you need to reverse wash and blow air through any oil galleries you can reach otherwise the next step is that you could try unscrewing and removing all the plugs at each junction (desperate) and then use worm screws afterwards and then finally.....the engine stripped again!

regards

Taffy
 
I dissambled the complete engine and cleaned everything the firsttime.
so if I read this, the best thing I could is take out the engine again :( and clean all the oil holes. or just take out all the oil screens and clean.
And one more question is it better to use the Motorex oil like there is distribed and not an other brand? I'm not intending to have anymore damage to the engine by using the wrong oil
 
Maybe the cause of your engine damage in the first place was low or no oil pressure not the wrong oil. :cry: :cry:

I hope you get it sorted. :D

Steve
 
tazer said:
Maybe the cause of your engine damage in the first place was low or no oil pressure not the wrong oil. :cry: :cry:

I hope you get it sorted. :D

Steve

That was my first thinking to but now it's all new, everything was cleaned and still I don't have any pressure. I'm getting a little :bounce3: about it.
I'm thinking about it to just opening the engine again and clean everything again, hopefully it gives me some answers

Greetzzz
 
always reverse blow :D

as I say, you can remove little dowels at junctions if you get desperate.

regards

Taffy
 
Questions:

How much time on the bike before the failures?

Did the oil pressure return from zero to 1 bar after you let it idle down?

There was a case I now of wherein the oil passage way was not drilled on the barrel leading to no oil pressure and subsequent component failure on the top end.

Are you measuring the oil pressure at the point show in the shop manual? Page 157 shows oil pressure measuring procedure. With coolant temp of > 158F your oil pressure should be 1.3 to 2.3 bar or 19-33psi at 1500 rpm. At 5000 rpm it should be 3.0 to 4.0 bar or 44-58psi.

Did you check/inspect the oil pop off valve ball and spring when you dis assembled engine? It's on page 113 of my 09 shop manual. Measured length of spring should be 23.5mm. Check the ball for abnormalities which could cause loss of sealing.

Also on page 122 there are inspection specs for the oil pumps, did those get checked? Excessive clearance here could cause cavitation as mentioned above, or just leakage making for pressure.

What was/is the condition of the plastic oil pump drive gears, and were the drive dowls put back in place?

When engine failed, was there a lot of debris on the oil pick up screen?

I'm also with Taffy on reverse blowing through all of the oil passages. Good illustration of oil flow on page 156.

My guesstimate..........

Since the failures you had included the crank, and the rocker arm one could conclude there was no oil pressure top and bottom end. Which excludes the top end only problem I described earlier. You did not mention why the oil pump was replaced or which one it was, the Scavenging or the Pressure.

Since you replaced all those parts and the oil pressure is still low or no existent, I am very suspicious of the oil pressure regulator mechanism, since a failure of this mechanism, such as the ball sticking would allow the oil to just dump back into the sump or the majority of it. Perhaps a piece of debris is between the ball valve and the seat?

I am also curious as to the health of the oil pump drive gears and their drive dowls. I appears that the Scavenging pump is driven from the back side of the clutch basket, and in turn the Scavenging pump gear drives the Pressure pump gear.

Further, did you check the condition of the hydraulic cam chain tensioner O ring?

Hope this helps your analysis,

Dale
 
hi Dale, my bike had about 150h (10.000km). Never had any problem with it.
I did the usual checkup (valve clearence, oil change->every 800km, it was for road use).

I had to change the pressure pump because i had a lot of scratches on the surfies.
Also the piston, conrod, bearings and had to drill out the cilinder( oversize piston 102 mm)

When I had the problem there was a lot of debris on the magnet 8O .

As you said I did check the ball, no abnormal things to see, the spring was ok.

It was the first time, after the new rocker arm,I checked the oil pressure. Then it was 1bar and when the presurre dropped it didn't came back to 1 bar. :arrow: The following times I checkes it didn't even get the 1 bar.
The dowls of the pumps and gears are still ok.

And the chaincam tensioner, I had it replaced when I heard a strange noise from the engine with a dirt tricks. But that wasn't the solution.

If I have some time I will post some pics of the parts that were damaged. You could cry If you see the parts.

Ps, Thanks for the reply, hope you have some more info with it. I'm sure I have some more with these answers of you people. Thanks

Greetzzz
 
Thanks for the detailed reply...........

Sounds like there is some crud in there some where.

Short of taking the engine apart again, try pulling the bypass plug, spring, ball assembly and see if any thing falls out with it?
 
DaleEO said:
Thanks for the detailed reply...........

Sounds like there is some crud in there some where.

Short of taking the engine apart again, try pulling the bypass plug, spring, ball assembly and see if any thing falls out with it?

No probs, Hope to sort it out, Because the wife is getting iritatted about it :roll: I reply her :arrow: you spend more time on your bike than you do one. :oops: 8)
Who can blame a man who cares about his bike :mrgreen:
 
This is just a thought, but there are two ways to install the little oil filter in the line from the cylinder head. The wrong way will block the line.
 
CAZZZIER

If I'm reading your posts correctly you:

1. Fitted new oil pressure pump together with a rebore and new bearings at 150hrs/10000km due to wear.

2. When you put it all back together it ran for 10km before hitting oil feed problems.

My thoughts are:

If you had assembled the new pump incorrectly or the relief valve was faulty you would have had 0 oil pressure form first startup and it would have siezed almost immediately and certainly would not last 10km.
My money is on the debris blocked oilway theory which to me means another engine strip to be 100% sure it's found and cleared. Hope you get it sorted and with minimal cost.
 

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