not charging

Dukkinen · Apr 18, 2011

hello, ive got my husaberg fixed last saturday and its been a joy to drive

except the battery problem, im pretty sure about the problem but havent try it.

ive changed the lights to work from battery current because there is xenon kit intalled. the red wire to lightswitch is connected to wire after ignition switch.
two wires whitch come from stator (the yellow ones) the other is connected to regulator and another one is disconnected because the red light wire was changed to other place.

So in my opinion the reason is the other disconnected yellow wire? should i ground it or connect to lights regulator?

i hope you understanded my question. My english isnt perfect

Dukkinen · Apr 19, 2011

ive been searching for posts and owner doc and its obvious that the other disconnected yellow wire is the reason. Because lights are from battery current and there is nothing behind the yellow wire, what should i do to it? connect it to earth or connect the ´smaller´ regulator to it? i havent done anything to it yet because i dont want to destroy any electric parts. I will ride with it tomorrow and it would be nice to start it from button, im desperately waiting for advice

tinwelp · Apr 19, 2011

Hi Dukkinen,
my English is far from perfect too, but it's much better than my Finnish!!

Could you tell me which Husaberg you have please so I can look at the circuit diagram?

Do I understand correctly that you originally had direct (AC) lighting, but you've swapped to DC????

It should be quite easy to fix, but I need to look at your diagram before I can give any advice.

Cheers... Paul

arkley123 · Apr 19, 2011

My ignorant posts often provoke those who know better to correct me so here goes...
I've been having problems with my horn (see thread "horn wont work - help please). anyway, my battery has never work properly & I don't care as it kicks so easy, but my horn doesn't work...I'm getting to the point...so someone pointed me in the direction of the rectifier / regulator as being bust. This does appear to be the case as to why my horn doesn't work and also why the battery wont charge. To make the horn work now, I've taken the stator yellow to red live wire and split it off to the horn which in itself is earthed so perhaps the yellow red should be connected into an earthed ring.

The main thing is it sounds like your rectifier's had it. Others on here say any same polarity bike reg / reg should work saving the cost of an original berg one.

Having said that, if no-one else posts please don't take my word for it as I'm learning by mistake - PM Taffy or similar.

Dukkinen · Apr 20, 2011

the model and year is on the signature, fs650e -02 with blinkers. Yes there was ac lights before but now they are working on battery current. (there is nothing behind the AC current)

also if you can answer to these questions it will help me alot:

the two yellow wires, those are the wires that charges the battery? and current is between yellow-yellow or yellow-earth?

ty

DuaneB · Apr 20, 2011

current is from yellow to earth, and without looking up the numbers I think each yellow wire delivers 65 Watts. If you connect both yellow wires together you will get 130 Watts from the stator. You should only use both yellow wires together if you are actually using that much power from the stator... if you don't use the power, the regulator just works harder and the stator generates more heat.

tinwelp · Apr 20, 2011

Agreed. Each of the yellow wires has a separate coil in the stator if I understand correctly, each of which is referenced to ground.

What I don't know is whether it is sensible to simply common the two yellow wires... are they in phase? Easy to measure with an oscilloscope, but I'm sure Sparks will be able to tell us off the top of his head as this is his bread-and-butter work.

Another thing is the open pin on the standard regulator-rectifier.

I do wonder why Husaberg designed the system like this. It really seems a bit half-arsed. Cost is my guess.

Cheers... Paul

Dukkinen · Apr 20, 2011

So it looks like that regulator or coil is broken? i havent done anything to it yet but tomorrow i need to search the fault with multimeter. You guys make me alot wiser, thanks

Ill be back when i know more

tinwelp · Apr 20, 2011

Dukkinen,
measure the battery voltage with the engine stopped, then again with the engine running, then again when you rev it up some. Do these three measurements with and then without the lights on.

What voltages do you get? It's possible that with only one of the generator coils connected the battery may be charging, but the entire output of the generator is consumed by the lights. It's unlikely if you've got 65W to play with, and especially if you're using HID not halogen lighting, but the numbers you generate with the above tests should confirm everything.

Cheers... Paul

Dukkinen · Apr 21, 2011

i was busy today but will measure the voltages tomorrow.. Im having HID xenon light in front, not sure about watts but i think its 35w. Tail light is led, park bulb is 5w and also blinkers are led so there should be alot of watts left.

Dukkinen · May 3, 2011

Back to business. At first time the charging problem was redicilous, the yellow wire wasnt connected to regulator

I think it got off when i pushed the tank to its place.

After i solved the problem i charged myu battery full and started to ride with it. Like 3hours of riding i noticed that front light was off because the battery was too low. Today i checked the voltages with almost empty battery.

11,2v when engine wasnt running.
12,4v when engine was on idle without lights on
14v when i rev it without lights
when i switch lights on voltage drops and xenon wont start

So should i go to halogen and change lights to AC current or is there any way to increase the charging current? like using both yellow wires?

i think regulator is rewinded by ex owners but not sure. (there was something red material on it)

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