- Joined
- Nov 20, 2001
- Messages
- 17,028
- Location
- Ely, England
I guess this message is 12 years too late although it has been said before, but here goes as a thread:
when stripping a 2001-2004 Husaberg, look for a ring (called the bullring as it tethers the crank to the left) behind the crank gear. owners are fitting two ball main bearings when it comes to rebuild time for their older Husabergs. the problem is, the engines are meant to have a ball and a roller.
history
the first 2004 Husabergs were made with little axial (side-to-side) float on the crank. the answer for a business in the North of England was to fit a ball bearing on the left and a roller on the right.
why?
by tethering the crank to the left the crank could expand to the right. expand and contract. in order to tether it to the left a steel ring was fitted OUTSIDE the crankcases in the left cover. it fits between the ball mains inner race and the primary gear. the primary crank nut is then tightened and the crank drawn through.
what is the problem?
the job itself is not the best solution but it should go well enough in the 450/501/550 applications where the revs are high but the loads are low. however, on the 650 the ball can't really take the load and there is more whip in the crank than it can deal with.
people strip the engines and can't see why the previous owner had one ball and one roller so they just get two balls. balls because they are cheap!
but, by having two balls and still pulling the crank to the left, the right ball still has to deal with the entire expansion and contraction of the crankshaft and can't! there is no lateral 'give' in a ball.
what is the main mistake?
people not appreciating what the original application was about. stick to a ball and a roller IF this is what you want. below is the better solution. it is the private owner rebuilding them and (would you believe!) workshops ALSO saying the same thing: why? then fitting two balls.
what is the better solution?
we fit roller bearing mains to everything now except the 400 or say a 470/old 501 if requested. we throw the bullrings away, the crank floats freely.
the best solution is to go for rollers with no shims. a little too much float is better than too little.
.45mm for a 450
.55mm for a 550
.65mm for a 650
the above will do. mains will go because the cranks aren't true as much as ANYTHING. if stripping, ask someone to check that the crank is true.
Where are these bikes?
they are nearly all in the North of the UK. But bikes get sold from one end of the country to the other.
Can I just say that without all this extra work I wouldn't have as much business.
remember: two balls, or two rollers, don't mix them - no bull.
regards
Taffy
when stripping a 2001-2004 Husaberg, look for a ring (called the bullring as it tethers the crank to the left) behind the crank gear. owners are fitting two ball main bearings when it comes to rebuild time for their older Husabergs. the problem is, the engines are meant to have a ball and a roller.
history
the first 2004 Husabergs were made with little axial (side-to-side) float on the crank. the answer for a business in the North of England was to fit a ball bearing on the left and a roller on the right.
why?
by tethering the crank to the left the crank could expand to the right. expand and contract. in order to tether it to the left a steel ring was fitted OUTSIDE the crankcases in the left cover. it fits between the ball mains inner race and the primary gear. the primary crank nut is then tightened and the crank drawn through.
what is the problem?
the job itself is not the best solution but it should go well enough in the 450/501/550 applications where the revs are high but the loads are low. however, on the 650 the ball can't really take the load and there is more whip in the crank than it can deal with.
people strip the engines and can't see why the previous owner had one ball and one roller so they just get two balls. balls because they are cheap!
but, by having two balls and still pulling the crank to the left, the right ball still has to deal with the entire expansion and contraction of the crankshaft and can't! there is no lateral 'give' in a ball.
what is the main mistake?
people not appreciating what the original application was about. stick to a ball and a roller IF this is what you want. below is the better solution. it is the private owner rebuilding them and (would you believe!) workshops ALSO saying the same thing: why? then fitting two balls.
what is the better solution?
we fit roller bearing mains to everything now except the 400 or say a 470/old 501 if requested. we throw the bullrings away, the crank floats freely.
the best solution is to go for rollers with no shims. a little too much float is better than too little.
.45mm for a 450
.55mm for a 550
.65mm for a 650
the above will do. mains will go because the cranks aren't true as much as ANYTHING. if stripping, ask someone to check that the crank is true.
Where are these bikes?
they are nearly all in the North of the UK. But bikes get sold from one end of the country to the other.
Can I just say that without all this extra work I wouldn't have as much business.
remember: two balls, or two rollers, don't mix them - no bull.
regards
Taffy
Last edited:
